Where I live a bunch of punks drive these stock mustangs with an exhaust and think they run the place. I had to sell my cummins for car my wife could use to go to school and haul out newest addition brycen. I will be getting a truck come February and have a 2001.5 in mind. I want to push 600hp to the rear so I can show these kids what real power looks like. My plan for the hp is replace the injectors with a 150 set, super B turbo. Air dog 150, valair dual disk clutch, S&B intake and a Wilson thrasher intake system. I'm thinking on stacking smarty and a edge. What am I missing or need to change?

 

you're not going to make 600hp with that.

first: forget the airdog... get a FASS..

airdog changed ownership a couple years ago and ever since their product quality has dropped off a cliff. I would never trust a new airdog pump in my truck. in fact I would run a stock lift pump before I ran a new airdog pump now a days... (and I have an OLD airdog pump on it now)

I got my airdog from back in the good ol days before they changed ownership and effed everything up...if my pump ever dies it will be replaced with a fass.


next: the mods you listed would get you 450hp at best. also forget the intake. no point unless you are going for looks...

let me just put it into perspective for you:

mine is a 2000 with 6x.013 injectors (240hp+ competition injectors) adrenaline with pulse running comp tune, S357 (super b) over S475 compound twin turbos, 5" exhaust, 115# valve springs and HD push rods, 150GPH lift pump with 1/2" fuel lines, double disc clutch, upgraded intercooler boots and spring clamps, full set of gauges, PTO coolers on the 6-spd manual trans, etc...

all of that translates to 576hp 1285tq @ the rears...

so 150hp (7x.010) injectors and a super b (S357) and an edge/smarty stack (you will actually lose top end power by stacking with a box that already does canbus fueling. I proved this on the dyno...lost 72hp stacking my smarty with the adrenaline) will definitely not achieve your goal.

you won't even break 500hp with that setup. enough fuel to break 500, but not enough air.

a 62/71/14 turbo with 7x.010's will break the 500hp barrier, but definitely not the 600hp barrier...


if you want to do it with a single you need a 64-66mm compressor and 7x.012 or 6x.013 injectors.

my setup is capable of it, but my vp44 is just too tired and old. it couldn't hold timing or keep up with the fuel demand to pull it off.

my truck on the rollers:

 

Get a common rail. 500 is a programmer and lift pump.

Or spend common rail prices trying to extract that kind of power from a 24v.


I'd be happy with 350-400hp at the rears out of my 12v.

 

I have that out of my 24v without electronics lol. 388hp/813tq @ rears on injector and turbo only.

and it has no problem towing



Pulled 3 mountain passes with that at 60mph+ up 6% grades. No EGT issues and definitely no power issues lol. EGT's peaked at 1100 when I had my foot into it on an up hill on ramp. Other than that, 1050 was the max it ever saw at cruise speeds on the grade.

 

Yeah my 12v didn't have any problem hauling the 24' box with about 12k on the tires, kept EGTs under 800 (post turbo) pretty much the whole time. That was fuel plate and springs only. No clue where it's at for power, but it needs more turbo.

But it's definitely not as peppy as my 08 was. I really want a manual though.

 

your in a Dodge truck with week sold front axles.....600 hp aint gonna do any thing but make you more annoying than the mustang boys who will out accelerate, out turn and out run your big *** dodge truck every time you roll coal.

Advantage for you will be a dependable, economic CTD you can use to move a mountain or two, tow all your toys, and have fun off road, Im all for extra hp.

In my neck off the woods, (Alberta) thiers far too many dumb dumbs racing around in lifted dodge trucks, Not All dodge owners are bad, But the ones who think their kool blowing smoke into my drivers door ( Elantra) panic at a red lights when I go for them nice tow mirrors......

 

You're an idiot.