My $0.02

When i was looking at these trucks, I was a tad worried about possibly buying a "53" block (turned out I didn't), but at the time I decided this. I wouldn't worry about a "53" block because if there were a widespread serious issue with these things it would be reflected in the sale value of the trucks, this little problem hasn't affected the sales value one bit on these things, so I don't believe it is much of an issue, definitely not one to get all bent out of shape over.

 

All I have on my 98 12 Valve is 2J.se cast into the left front of the block, so I guess I don't have a series 53 block.
I do have a neighbor with a 2001 that has the series 53 block and has over 200,000 miles on it with no problems. My quess is that out of the thousands of series 53 blocks out there, you only hear about the few that crack.

 

I talked to Lock-n-Stitch to get an understanding how big the problems is. They said is was pretty big, their shop alone does a couple a week. They really expressed that the problem is an uneven heat expanison. They said that very few engines have problems in south where it does not get cold or in the far north where people use block heaters. The problem is in the middle of the county where it gets cold but people don't warm up their engines or use the block heater.

To fix a cracked block with the Lock-n-Stitch method is not near the cost of a new Block. The Lock-n-Stitch kit cost $320. They claim to do an inframe block repair will take 6-8 hours and should cost about $1000 to $2000. They stongly suggest to install the support bracket because the block could crack again. The Bracket cost $500 and should take two to three hours to install.

So if your block cracks it could cost as much as $3200 which is cheaper than a Trans..

Looking out the window I see it is snowing hard, time to go plug in my 53 Block..

 

wow thanks for the update, this will be good info for the 53 block owners.

 

Well I crawled under the truck today and found out that I have the dreaded 53 block. I live in the south and use the block heater all the time if the temp get below 50 degrees. I do ALOT of heavy towing and have 160k on my truck. I do not tow in the winter time and it only get below 20 about 4-5 times a year in the winter. I guess that I will let the truck warm up a bit before doing any heavy towing. I would assume that since I have 160k on my truck and have already done extensive towing, that I probably don't have anything to worry about.

 

I am a car dealer in Indiana. I recently bought a 1998.5 w/ 24 valve. Had 143k when I got it. At 148k Discovered a cracked block. Got on internet and discovered all about #53 block. Since then I have talked to other dealers that are aware, and IT DOES HURT THE VALUE if you are dealing with anybody that deals in Dodge Diesel trucks. Since then I have also seen a few at the auctions (leaking and some that have been welded). I still have mine with cracked block, Cummins will replace a block, under 150k, but no labor (will cost about 4,500) and uses your old components. Lock & Stitch will run about 2k (and to me has not really been proven yet). I still have my cracked block truck (can not make myself take to an auction and stick someone else with it) But now I only buy the older 12v truckcks (unless it's a bargain) and yess I crawl under everyone one now and look fot that #53. I would love to see someone start some kind of a suit to go after Cummins (they are making good profits, here in Indiana) they should stand behind this problem. Good luck with your #53. I am told if you let them warm up good, before driving, less of a risk of cracking.

 

A Class Action Law Suite would be great, but the only ones that make out on them are the Lawers.