Thanks for the comments!

(sigh),,,,,,,, another %$#@n' problem!

The main fuel line connector won't stay fasened on the pump outlet now.

To diconnect the main line connector, just took a very small screw driver, and pried the little clips out far enough untill the connector 'popped' free.

Each pump install, shove the connector on as far as it would go, then push the little clips back into place.

Ok, I'm going to stop here, and go off another story. When I dropped the tank for the first time, I noticed the brake line to the back, that routs BEHIND the tank, was rusted so bad that when I touched it, it 'sprung a leak'.
The rest of the steel lines were fairly rust free.
I replaced the line. Bled all 4. OK, fine and dandy.

While the motor was running, (after the brake bleed) and wifey had her foot on the pedal, I went feeling/looking to see if any of the brake line connections were leaking. I just bumped the main fuel line, it popped off, gas sprayed everywhere, and the motor promptly shut off.

Dropped the tank again, (I'm a EXPERT now. Less than 5 minuts the tank is down! Anti-seize on all the threads and clamp threads helps! Oh, I forgot to mention. I have a pit. Get to stand up and do everything.)

I can shove the connector on far enough, but, I can't seem to bend the little clips down far enough, to lock on the pump outlet lip.

There must be a special tool to be able to bend the clips down far enough, at the same time? Opnions, again, please?
My opnion, there HAS to be a better/simpler design, to hold the main fuel line on the pump outlet!

Thanks.

(three pumps and now the main connector won't stay on,,,,. This is getting more trouble than it's worth!

 

If you have the connector I'm thinking of, you have to push it on and hold it in place with a lot of pressure as you push the clips down. The clips should slide into place fairly easy if you have enough pressure holding the hose on.

 

Yes! A LOT OF PRESSURE, is right!
That was what my problem was, I didn't have the strength in my 'aching joints' to push the connector on far enough.

Got my son-in-law he was able to shove the connector on, while I shoved the opposite direction on the tank.

The Van is now more problem than it's worth!
The Federated pump quit working! Driving in town, Van quit as though the key was turned off. Fuses/relays ALL good.
NO 'brapp' when the key is turned on. The pump isn't working.

THREE pumps, in less than 2 weeks, something is seriously wrong here. One pump may have been truly defective,,,,,,,,.
If I hadn't throwed the orginal pump away, I would put it back in and have a '14 gallon' tank.

What else can I check for? I have limited, special diagnostic tools.

Thanks.

 

You will find many posts on this site telling that aftermarket pumps do not hold up well. The only pumps that no one seem to have problems with are the OEM ones from the dealer.

 

Whew! Saying, get parts from "The Dealer" falls on deaf ears around here. LOL Good suggestion, but, the dealers' parts dept's are too rich for my blood!
For ONLY the idle rich can afford to pay the exorbant, inflated prices the dealers charge! ($10 for an oil filter, you can get the same brand (Motorcraft FL-1A) at Advanced for just change under $3.00! $2.80 something)

Come to think of it, I haven't darkened a dealer's door in a couple of decades! Even that time was a horrible experience. Anyway.

I did call them at first, jsut to see. When he said the word, 'six' (he didn't even get to the word 'hundred.' Let alone, what figures, was after that) I said, he was crazy, and quicky hung up. Didn't want any of that inflated price to come through, and some how reflect on my phone bill.
$600 and something, for a fuel pump is totally stupid!

Dropped the tank,,,,, again. (I'm gonna strip the threads taking that thing up and down so much! LOL)

This time to took the pump to a 'lectric place. Guy I know worked there checked the pump for me and said, there is nothing wrong. He came up and checked the plug that goes into the pump, and along that set of wires untill they dissapeard into the harness,,,,,, getting full power.

I installed the pump back into the tank, put the tank back up in it's place. Van fired right up! Motor didn't even roll over once, it fired!
Drove it back down the road and back. No problem.
I was getting ready to shut the hood when it slipped out of my hands and slamed shut. The motor shut off. But, it started right back up.
I slamed the hood on purpous. Third time, the motor quit.
It started right back up. So, I sarted wiggling everything under the hood.

There is this silver box about 7" long, 5" high, and about an 1" thick. right in the middle of the firewall, right above the motor, that has three big plug in's. When I TOUCH and press (very little pressure) inward on the two plugs, or wiggle the wires going to those two plugs, (looking straight in, to the passenger side of the three plugs there) the motor will quit.

I was going to pull all three of those plugs and spray some CRC electric cleaner, but, for the life of me, I can't see how to ondo three 'barbs' at the same time that hold each plug in? Or, is there an 'easy' way, I'm not seeing, to get these plugs off that box?

Would that ( I can't spell it) dilectic 'tune up' grease, (you know, what you put on the spark plug wires, to the cap, and plugs) in those plug in's help?

What is this silver box?

If, spray, or 'tune-up' grease, don't solve this problem, I'm selling the van on ebay.
I have NEVER had this many problem(s) with a single vehicle before. Especially one with only 50K miles!
I got a '81 F-350 4 X 4 SRW, what you call one of those hi-boys, Looks lifted, but it's factory. That has 517K miles! The heads have NEVER been off! 400, 'granny' 4-speed. It had broke on me only twice, since I started driving it in '85, that I couldn't get it home on it's own power. (starter locked up against the f'wheel, and the spark module/dist)
When gas was $2 something a gallon, I could afford to drive it. 9-10 mpg. When I drive that thing, it's as obnoxious as a forest fire, but, it's reliable! Just venting. Sorry

THANKS,,,,,, again for the suggestions/information!

 

That's the computer (PCM). Each connector has one catch on it. Push the connector in, squeeze the catch, and then pull/wiggle the connector out.

 

I do not know if the dielectric grease will help in this case or not. It would not hurt to try it. Pull the connectors out and see what condition the pins are in. If looking really bad then you might try a PCM from a salvage yard. The PCM pins could be dirty, the wiring harness may not be connected correctly, or the PCM itself could be broken internally.

 

I have been away for a couple of weeks.

This is what I found out

OK. The 'computer' was replaced, with a new MoPar unit. Has a 12-'07 sticker on it.

What the problem is. The middle plug, the white colored, adapter(?) is loose, or, doesn't fit tight to the computer like the other two plugs.
Sometimes, (not everytime) I turn the key on, wait untill the pump quits, then try to start. Sometimes the motor will roll over but, not fire. Sometimes it will fire right off.
The times the motor doesn't fire, I wiggle the middle plug, and it starts right up.

The dealer parts doesn't list that 'adapter'

Seems like the next time I go to the U-pullit yard, I'll try and get a couple of those adapters. Problem will getting all three barbed clips loose at the same time, to seperate the plug from that adapter.

Thanks again for your tips/suggeations!

Now, I gotta go find out what the guys with the old 12 valve diesels, are using for tappet/cam lubrication since the ZDDP has been all but elminated out of the CH-4 oils.