Dry time for RTV with plenum repair and thermostat
Thread Starter
|
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Dry time for RTV with plenum repair and thermostat
Just finish putting back everything on my van doing the Plenum Repair. I used RTV with the felt plenum gasket (no Hughes kit). And I put a 1/4 in bead in the corners only on the intake last night. The temp overnight was and still is in the low 20's. How long do I need to wait fort the RTV to harden before I can try to start the engine?
And today while putting on the new thermostat I couldn't find the gasket, so I use RTV there too. That was about 3 hours ago. Do I need to wait before filling the radiator with anitfreeze?
Oh yes, one more thing
. While putting the heater hose back on, the inline vacuum check valve cracked off. I just eliminated it. Is that OK or not. Van is 14 years old so a few plastic vacuum lines cracked too. But I had replacements to fix those. I don't have a ride to get to parts store right now either. So I'm hoping the check valve is not a big issue. May even be the reason I don't get very good heat?
Mainly was hoping I could start it up with RTV. Hoping I did everything right. First time doing a job of this size. Lot of steps.
And today while putting on the new thermostat I couldn't find the gasket, so I use RTV there too. That was about 3 hours ago. Do I need to wait before filling the radiator with anitfreeze?
Oh yes, one more thing
. While putting the heater hose back on, the inline vacuum check valve cracked off. I just eliminated it. Is that OK or not. Van is 14 years old so a few plastic vacuum lines cracked too. But I had replacements to fix those. I don't have a ride to get to parts store right now either. So I'm hoping the check valve is not a big issue. May even be the reason I don't get very good heat?Mainly was hoping I could start it up with RTV. Hoping I did everything right. First time doing a job of this size. Lot of steps.
Van & CUV Section Moderator
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,379
Likes: 116
It's always been my understanding that you're not supposed to use any gasket sealer on the plenum gasket.
The 1/4" intake corner beads are all set and so is the t-stat housing RTV.
If you're talking about the actual vacuum check valve, you'll want to replace that ASAP. It won't do any damage, but every time you go up a hill or otherwise load the engine down your heat is going to blow out the defrosters instead of the floor. If however you're talking about the water flow valve that is in line with the heater hose, then all that is used for is Max A/C. On Max A/C vacuum is applied to that valve to close off the water flow to the heater core in order to increase the cooling ability of the A/C system.
The 1/4" intake corner beads are all set and so is the t-stat housing RTV.
If you're talking about the actual vacuum check valve, you'll want to replace that ASAP. It won't do any damage, but every time you go up a hill or otherwise load the engine down your heat is going to blow out the defrosters instead of the floor. If however you're talking about the water flow valve that is in line with the heater hose, then all that is used for is Max A/C. On Max A/C vacuum is applied to that valve to close off the water flow to the heater core in order to increase the cooling ability of the A/C system.
Thread Starter
|
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
It's always been my understanding that you're not supposed to use any gasket sealer on the plenum gasket.
The 1/4" intake corner beads are all set and so is the t-stat housing RTV.
If you're talking about the actual vacuum check valve, you'll want to replace that ASAP. It won't do any damage, but every time you go up a hill or otherwise load the engine down your heat is going to blow out the defrosters instead of the floor. If however you're talking about the water flow valve that is in line with the heater hose, then all that is used for is Max A/C. On Max A/C vacuum is applied to that valve to close off the water flow to the heater core in order to increase the cooling ability of the A/C system.
The 1/4" intake corner beads are all set and so is the t-stat housing RTV.
If you're talking about the actual vacuum check valve, you'll want to replace that ASAP. It won't do any damage, but every time you go up a hill or otherwise load the engine down your heat is going to blow out the defrosters instead of the floor. If however you're talking about the water flow valve that is in line with the heater hose, then all that is used for is Max A/C. On Max A/C vacuum is applied to that valve to close off the water flow to the heater core in order to increase the cooling ability of the A/C system.
Thanks again Alloro.
The water flow valve is the one. Thanks! Great then. I'm not going to worry about it for now. So I can add the antifreeze tonight and see if it starts up tonight even thought it's well below freezing? I wont' take drive it far just to the store and back. I want to make sure I good to go. I have to get to work Friday. And I'm affraid I won't have the time to correct any problem tommorrow.
As for the use of RTV on the plenum gasket. I hope it's OK. I've read many post of others who have, so I just figured it couldn't hurt any. I also read in the same posts to just use a 1/4 inch bead for the intake manifold. So I followed those.
