What year and engine is this?
Do you have 2 injectors total or one for each cylinder?

 

It's a 94 B250 5.2L and has the 8 injectors 4 and 4 on each side. I checked to fuel pressure regulator and couldn't find it at the TB. And I only see one fuel line going into fuel rail on driver side... no return line that I noticed. So I guess the regulator is atop the fuel pump at the tank. Again there's also no inline fuel filter attached to frame. Looks like it may have been eliminated and replaced with a male to male coupler which also has a clip. I tried to disconnect the lines from coupler going to tank and to fuel rail. I remove this clip first and tried to easily force lines from coupler but It felt like it needed more force and I was affraid to crack lines or plastic coupler part. I'm going to check again for spark and then to store for manual and go step by step if the book show how to do a trouble shoot for this problem.

I guess the first step is to check fuel line for blockage then check for voltages (How is what I'll need manual for.) at relay, pump and whatever. I do hear a click when I turn key and fuel line at rail spits out.

Here's what I think has happened so far. If I get spark this morning (its' cold today) ECM was at fault originally. At the same time I had ECM issues the fuel pump or line or quite possible the relay circuit was a becoming an issue. Because within those 2 days of van running fine after heat up of ECM and then barely making it home into driveway after 10 minute ride the pump, lines, relay circuit or regulator, which is all connected to fuel supply was at it's last leg and just quit or plugged line was got too clogged to supply gas.

I remember checking fuel pressure quirting out of fuel line at rail seemed strong to me, but maybe not as strong as it should be. This I don't know. I do know I had no pressure with cold weather and no spark, which I have to guess is from ECM. That's why I need to know 100% for sure I have spark when at those real cold temps. Up til this morning it's been cold but not as cold as that day I checked for spark and pressure. Just need to rule this out completely. Today is cold but still not as cold either. OK, just came back in from checking spark. I get plenty and I feel it's cold enough.

So I want to find out about this plastic coupler part I'm seeing at the frame where the gas filter I thought used to be. I want to disconnect lines there and see if I get fuel pressure from tank side of line. If not I have to see if I have voltage to pump or relays circuits I think.

How's my trouble shooting theory seem?

 

You're on the right track with your troubleshooting technique. The fuel pressure should be at least 40 psi. I don't think you're going to find a blockage or a restriction, I think you're going to find it's a bad pump. Reason being, if it were a blockage you'd get no pressure at all, so rule out the blockage. If it were a restriction, you would still get full pressure with key on, engine off, but the pressure would drop with the engine running, and drop even more under load. If it were a wiring problem, the pump wouldn't run at all.

Aftermarket pumps don't last in these van, many people have reported this issue. The only ones that seem to last are the OEM ones from the dealer.

 

Oh, one more thing, the regulator, filter, pump, and float are now all one unit in the tank. That's why you have no external regulator or filter.

 

Seems to be what I was just told by mechanic at autoparts store. He replace 3 pumps in one month once and finally went with an OEM from dealer and so far so good. That would suck.

Got the Haynes manual for my van finally. Read up on all the checks and how to's. I'm gonna check for that whinning sound by the tank. I've only listened from inside the drivers seat. So probably the reason for not hearing it. Duh! on my part. I'm also gonna look into cutting the floor metal out to get access to the fuel pump from above. Maybe a foot quare opening if I can get a saw zaw in without any other damage to whats' behind there and plastic fuel tank. If so I may do this myself and go for the pump. Damm things are close to 200 for pump only and 435 for whole assembly. Don't understand why a pump would cost so much. Any other pump is no where near that price for other uses. PeP Boys only wanted 192 for labor only, but only has the whole assembly and would replace just the pump if I get it somewhere else for same 192. So 200 to drop tank ain't so bad at this point. I need a truck. Hate to give it but it's going to be cold all week with possible rain/snow. Just gonna look into a few more electrical checks with manual and then see I can get access above tank through floor. Having access would be beneficial for future. Just need some piece of plywood to use as a cover if it's doable.

Any comments on that are welcome as usual. And again thank Alloro.

 

Well I got to hear the whinning sound of the fuel pump for 3 second intervals with each turn of the key to on. So I guess assuming power to pump is fine. Or am I assuming too much here?

Also drilled a few holes into floor just at cross beam at end of fuel tank so I didn't damage anything. I was inside cross beam right on center. Shined a light through holes 3/8 inch and was only able to know that it is tight from top of gas tank to floor maybe an inch or 2 it seems. Tough to tell yet. But dropping tank doesnt' look too bad if I can get 15 gals of fuel syphoned out or there abouts. I tried to stick a 4 foot 5/8 OD syphon hose into filler hole but couldn't get it tank keeped hitting something no matter how I twisted and turned hose. It there an easier or other way. I'd hate to spill gas all over street and then hear about it unhooking the rubber coupler to tank.

 

Yeah the power sounds like it's there. Attach a 2'x2' piece of plywood to a floor jack and use that to raise and lower the tank. Very little chance of dumping the tank over if you do it that way, full or not. The other thing you can try is to lower the tank as far as you can without disconnecting anything. Once down you should have enough clearance to safely cut the hole in the floor. If you do this, put something like a thin board or a drop cloth on the top of the tank to keep any sparks or metal fragments from landing on the tank.

 

I like the plywood idea. Except I don't know how to get around the straps being in the way when tank rest on plywood. Will I be able to raise the tank enough to release straps at connection? Or will loosening straps at bolts anchors loosen it enough to jiggle straps loose from frame?

I'll give that a go and see how it goes tommorrow. I do know the single strap going across tank side to side is cracked half way through at bend of bottom of tank and was told they end up having to be replace alot. And to have straps on hand. Except parts store don't have em. I'll have to check dealer. Always something when you don't do these things for a living. That's why I hate plumbing too. Never have the right part when you need it.

 

That's right I forgot, there's a strap that runs down the center opposite to the two that run across. Okay, same idea, but fasten a block of 2x4 in each corner of the plywood the tall way. This way when it's up against the bottom of the tank you'll have a 3-1/2" space to be able to manipulate the strap around. You might have to adjust the size of the plywood so that the corner blocks clear all the straps.

 

Thanks Alloro,

This is gonna be a bit tough to do. As I have 3 straps. 2 attached front to back on right and left side of tank and 1 on center horizontal. The amount of space is devided into 6 divisions. I may be able to devise something on plywood with wood in between these sections. I'm pretty sure that would work. don't know how much weight is involve for the amount of pressure of the wood to support tank in that amount of space on plastic.

Am I getting to crazy with this crap now. I just hate to crack plastic tank. It's gonna bit about freezing tommorrow. And cold plastic don't go with pressure.

Sorry about my ignorance on this stuff. Gotta do what I have to do. Manual says to remove fuel filler hose on tank. Won't gas leak all over the place with half of 35 gal tank fuel once I remove this hose? The hose is a few inches up from bottom. Manual does says to try to empty tank if you can or use drain plug if equiped. Which is doesn't. I'm gonna just go at it and see what happens, things usually explain themselves as I go if I read enough and learn.