Hello

Okay Ill try to get right to the point. Bought a 95 b2500 van V6. Any info would be very help full.

Miles: 150,000
1)is there a easy way to tell if the oil pump is working? The gauge is not working. I checked the back of the cluster panel all seems to be okay. (cluster pane was replaced before I bought van.

2) there is a whine coming from the alternator (I think) The guyt I bought it from said it is the alternator pulley bearing..has any one ever heard of this? It makes sense I guess. Never had that issue on any other cars though..Alternator is still charging good .....

3)I'm tring to figure out if the (rocker arms as my dad used to call them) are bad. It sound like I have an exaust leak up in the front but can't find it. I did notice today there is a bolt missing out of the left hand side header...but don't feel no air or anything. When Im on the highway and at on steady speed it is hard to here but ..when you give more gas even slightly you can here it. also is hard to here at idle. but on the highway can here it. Is there a way for me to tell if it is the rocker under the valve cover...I put my ear up to the valve cover ...lol...also sound like it may be coming out of there

4) lastly for now....the parking lights work..but the head light do not come on.If I flash the blinker switch for the hight beams the light will flash. But when I pull the light swithc out only the parking light will work. I replaced the light switch @ the dash today...any ideas on any thing will be most appriciated....


MIke

 

#4..
do you have single headlights?
may be the low beam is burnt out.
either remove the bulbs and bench test or replace them.

david

p.s.
alternator bearings will make noise when they are failing.
take it to an alternator rebuild shop and let them listen to it.

 

1. Try replacing the oil sending unit at the rear of the engine next to the distributor. Make sure you get the one for the gauge and not for the light. Other than that, you would need to screw a pressure gauge into the sending unit hole to confirm what the oil pressure is.

2. Bad bearing, have the bearing replaced or replace the entire alternator.

3. A bad rocker arm, lifter, etc. in the valvetrain will make a constant tapping noise regardless of the engine speed or load. From your description it does sound more like an exhaust leak. It is difficult to "feel" an exhaust leak at the manifolds on these engine due to the cooling fan always turning.

4. Replace the hi/low beam selector switch.

 

On number 2 check the idler pulley of your van has the serpentine belt. It can make that noise and is just blow the alternator

 

okay thanks for the help.. I needed to fix this this weekend so I went ahead and ordered 2 rocker arms, 2 push rods and 2 pivets. How ever I did this before taking valve cover off because I wanted to do this ..this coming weekend...Now I have it of (valve cover) I wanted to start to see if I could tell where the sound is coming from. I visaully inspected what I could and felt around any hoo I now can feel air coming out of the header on the drivers side manifold ..ports closet to the tranny. I went to tighten up the bolts to see if it would qiute down and confirm this is the noise becouse it hard to here over the altenator bearing being loud. The header bolt just spin both of them well the two that I check around the air I felt. So am I to assume they broke and this is the sound I here..would it make a PINGING sound kinda ??? I alway thought it wa sa leak but could not here good or feel it at first. It has go worst since I replaced at rear of muffler due to leak? Will the head need to come off ?? or is there away to get the other half of the bolts out if I can get the head off?

P.s Sucks I spent the money on the push rods becouse they had to order the item from thwe ware house I think it is like a specail order now? Well maybe if the head has to come off I should replace them anyways? Thanks again guy..all info is ver very appricaited..

 

Sorry that you spent the money, but I did tell you up in post #3 that it was an exhaust leak and not the valve train.

It's most likely that you will have to pull the head and bring it to a machine shop to have the broken bolts taken out. Depending on what the shop would charge to extract them, it might be cheaper to just get a rebuilt head for $150 including the shipping. Better yet, since you're that far into the motor, spend the extra $150 for a 2nd rebuilt head and you won't have to worry about them for a long time to come.

You'll need the casting number off your heads to make sure you get the correct cylinder head that you need.

http://shop.ebay.com/items/?_nkw=reb...head&_osacat=0

 

Thanks those heads look nice......I didn't read you post untill after I bought the parst..But at any rate....I did get louder once I fixed the back leak...muffler/tailpipe... I pulled these 2 bolts out of the head..(with my finger no tools... They don't look broke but they wont't thread in neither. They feel like the start to catch when I thread by hand and when they get just a little started the just get loose again . The bolts are 1-1/4 " long not including the bolt head. Could the thred in the block be stripped out for some reason, and if so could I just by the manifold gasket and try to re-tap it? I thought it was a rocker becouse 1) it started getting louder and I couldn't feel the leak untill the valve cover was off.PLUS it feels like it is going to stall almost not too too bad but when you come to a stop it feels a littl rough and I smell unburned fuel out the *** end when I start it some times. Some guy said that could happen if my push road and/or rocker where bad?

 

Yes you can re-tap the bolt hole in the head to the next size up. You might have to enlarge the hole in the manifold as well or the larger bolt might not fit through it.

The stalling feeling as you approach a stop is probably due to a dirty IAC valve. There' a thread on this site by a poster named stev which gives you a step by step pictorial of how to clean the IAC valve.

 

I went and found the link to the thread:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-r...n-the-iac.html

 

I am going to pull the manifold off right now. I just had to by some lybe spray.. The guy at advanced said to usa some kit...I think it is what I used on my old safari van on one of the spark plug hole. (you drill it ou and thread in this sleave type thing that has threads on the in and out side of it) out side to thread into the hole in head and in side to thread the new bolt into this sleeve If this is what the guy was talking aqbout..Or just a reg retap and move up to the next size bolt? Would either one of the be a strong fix for the future...putting aside that a new head would be the bext thing but money is tight.