1990 B250 won't start
The other night while driving my 1990 B250, 318 died in mid motion. I coasted to a safe place and tried to restart. Nothing. I noticed that all the accessories quit as well. Today I replaced the starter and the relay. Still nothing when I turn the key. I'm seeing 12 volts at the battery and at the starter. I do not have any accessories either way I turn the key, although the heater blower will run and the lights and the hazards are working fine. Anyone have any suggestions for me? THANKS IN ADVANCE!
roberson
roberson
Why on Earth would you replace the starter and relay for a stalling issue?
Most likely you cooked one of the fusible links that powers your ignition switch. They're located up around the brake booster on the firewall.
Most likely you cooked one of the fusible links that powers your ignition switch. They're located up around the brake booster on the firewall.
Thanks. Yes, in hindsight I know that replacing the starter was a mistake but the contact terminals were so corroded and not spot welded to the housing that I sheared them off while removing the starter even after generous amounts of WD40. I also was reading 12 volts at the starter before I attempted its removal which is what lead me to removing the starter to test it in the first place. I kinda backed myself into a corner. Lesson learned.
I am aware of the fusible links. How can I determine if I have burned one or more up? Do I need to remove the booster in order to get a better look at them? Will I need to split open the cluster's insulation/housing in order to determine a failure?
Per my Haynes guide I checked continuity at the ignition starter switch and I do not have continuity to the run accessory post. Could this be related. Thanks for the help
roberson
I am aware of the fusible links. How can I determine if I have burned one or more up? Do I need to remove the booster in order to get a better look at them? Will I need to split open the cluster's insulation/housing in order to determine a failure?
Per my Haynes guide I checked continuity at the ignition starter switch and I do not have continuity to the run accessory post. Could this be related. Thanks for the help
roberson
Leave the booster alone and just split open the wiring harness up there. If a fusible link is burnt, you'll know it because it will appear as a melted piece of wire a few inches long.
Last edited by alloro; Jan 19, 2010 at 08:51 PM.
Sure enough! Found one fusible link that was burned up. I had to replace multiple links because of the oem molded housing/harness but it worked like a charm. It wasn't an easy diagnosis because none of the housings were visibly burned but I was able to find one that the insulation stretched enough to determine that the link had burned up. I wish I hadn't destroyed the posts on my starter to pull it out and test it but, oh well, the whole ordeal was still cheaper than a tow to the mechanic. Thanks so much Alloro!
roberson
roberson






