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1990 B250 won't start

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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 04:31 PM
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Default 1990 B250 won't start

The other night while driving my 1990 B250, 318 died in mid motion. I coasted to a safe place and tried to restart. Nothing. I noticed that all the accessories quit as well. Today I replaced the starter and the relay. Still nothing when I turn the key. I'm seeing 12 volts at the battery and at the starter. I do not have any accessories either way I turn the key, although the heater blower will run and the lights and the hazards are working fine. Anyone have any suggestions for me? THANKS IN ADVANCE!
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 06:58 PM
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Why on Earth would you replace the starter and relay for a stalling issue?
Most likely you cooked one of the fusible links that powers your ignition switch. They're located up around the brake booster on the firewall.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 08:27 PM
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Thanks. Yes, in hindsight I know that replacing the starter was a mistake but the contact terminals were so corroded and not spot welded to the housing that I sheared them off while removing the starter even after generous amounts of WD40. I also was reading 12 volts at the starter before I attempted its removal which is what lead me to removing the starter to test it in the first place. I kinda backed myself into a corner. Lesson learned.
I am aware of the fusible links. How can I determine if I have burned one or more up? Do I need to remove the booster in order to get a better look at them? Will I need to split open the cluster's insulation/housing in order to determine a failure?
Per my Haynes guide I checked continuity at the ignition starter switch and I do not have continuity to the run accessory post. Could this be related. Thanks for the help
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 08:31 PM
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Leave the booster alone and just split open the wiring harness up there. If a fusible link is burnt, you'll know it because it will appear as a melted piece of wire a few inches long.
 

Last edited by alloro; Jan 19, 2010 at 08:51 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 08:42 PM
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Sure enough! Found one fusible link that was burned up. I had to replace multiple links because of the oem molded housing/harness but it worked like a charm. It wasn't an easy diagnosis because none of the housings were visibly burned but I was able to find one that the insulation stretched enough to determine that the link had burned up. I wish I hadn't destroyed the posts on my starter to pull it out and test it but, oh well, the whole ordeal was still cheaper than a tow to the mechanic. Thanks so much Alloro!
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by roberson
I wish I hadn't destroyed the posts on my starter to pull it out and test it but, oh well,
At least you have a new starter out of this whole ordeal.
 
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