Efan Question
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Efan Question
I have a 2001 1500 conversion with the 5.9ltr and looking at a efan conversion. In popping the hood and taking a look at getting to the stock fan and installing an efan I just don't see how to get the clearance to do the work. I can disconnect/move all the rubber hoses, but it looks like I will need to move/disconnect the metal air conditioning xconnects. The clearances are so tight under the hood has anyone here actually done the conversion.
Thanks/Jim
Thanks/Jim
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,412
Likes: 2
From: Nashville
Well, I know your feeling of looking at what will it take to get to the fan/clutch/water-pump.
I had just replaced the RAD, hoses, fan-clutch, and water pump this past week.
You need to
- removed the black two rods. One holds the oil fill tube.
- the oil fill tube bolt.
- tie the oil fill tube to the master brake cylinder with twine.
- unbolt the fan shroud and push it towards the engine.
- drain the RAD and undo all the hoses.
- unbolt the overflow tank and remove it. Temporarily unbolt the washer bottle for room and place back when the overflow is out.
- Adjust the AC hoses towards the engine gently to allow the RAD to be removed.
- Remove the RAD. If the RAD is the OEM original, it will weight a good deal being copper/brass. If the van is nearing 100,000 miles, I would recommend replacing it.
- Now removed the fan shroud. The shroud is two pieces. An upper and lower. I could not get the blots apart to take each out, so all of the shroud came out assembled. Just have patience.
- take the belt off.
- remove the alternator.
- remove the AC compressor bolts and set the AC compressor gently atop of the front cross-member where the overflow bottle sat. one bolt mounts to the engine. Remove the inside dog-house for access remove it and the plate.
- Now, the fun begins. Remove the large casting that has a single free-wheeling pulley. You will need a 3ft breaker bar onto the end of the socket wrench. Turn carefully each one. Remove the free-wheeling pulley and look behind, there is the last bolt. When taking this off, set the casting aside and put the bolts in each location where they came out from. This is very important for reassembly.
- Remove the fan-clutch from the water pump. The big bolt is right-hand threaded. Mine would not budge at all. I had to remove the water pump and fan-clutch assembly together. Make sure you remove the bolts and place them in the same order to reassemble later. Since you are going eFan, you can just saw-zal the right handed nut off while the assembly is in a vice. Just cut mid-point or a little closer to the fan to separate them.
- clean off the old water-pump gasket on the engine. If the water-pump looks fine, (the inside impeller has NO scrapes onto the beveled surface and it spins well) get a new Felt-Pro gasket (thicker than most) and reassemble to the engine.
- Since much of the hardware is off the engine, you can replace the T-stat with a super stant and inspect the heater hoses.
- Reassemble the AC compressor.
- reassemble the alternator.
- put the belt back on or a new belt.
- STOP and think here. If you have the new eFan, now is the time to slip it into the engine bay before the RAD and hoses get reassembled. Just make sure the eFan assembly and it's shroud can fit between the cross-member and the AC hoses at the top or in through the bottom past the tranny cooler lines. Take measurements first!
A few eFans perform well with the Ram Vans. One, the eFan for the Dodge Ram Trucks. Another that fits like OEM because it's OEM is the Dodge Viper eFan. When I replace the RAD in my Ram Van, the RAD will fit the Viper, Ram Truck and the Ram Van. A few have used the deal eFan assembly from the Ford Taurus.
To do just the regular job of getting the water-pump, hoses, RAD, T-stat replaced without the eFan took me, a basic home garage mechanic, about 10 hours. I went slow at it just to avoid any mistakes. My Hayes repair manual was alright, but between the two Dodge forums, the help was even better. Just a week earlier, another member did what I just finished doing.
Hope this all helps you some.
I had just replaced the RAD, hoses, fan-clutch, and water pump this past week.
You need to
- removed the black two rods. One holds the oil fill tube.
- the oil fill tube bolt.
- tie the oil fill tube to the master brake cylinder with twine.
- unbolt the fan shroud and push it towards the engine.
- drain the RAD and undo all the hoses.
- unbolt the overflow tank and remove it. Temporarily unbolt the washer bottle for room and place back when the overflow is out.
- Adjust the AC hoses towards the engine gently to allow the RAD to be removed.
- Remove the RAD. If the RAD is the OEM original, it will weight a good deal being copper/brass. If the van is nearing 100,000 miles, I would recommend replacing it.
- Now removed the fan shroud. The shroud is two pieces. An upper and lower. I could not get the blots apart to take each out, so all of the shroud came out assembled. Just have patience.
- take the belt off.
- remove the alternator.
- remove the AC compressor bolts and set the AC compressor gently atop of the front cross-member where the overflow bottle sat. one bolt mounts to the engine. Remove the inside dog-house for access remove it and the plate.
- Now, the fun begins. Remove the large casting that has a single free-wheeling pulley. You will need a 3ft breaker bar onto the end of the socket wrench. Turn carefully each one. Remove the free-wheeling pulley and look behind, there is the last bolt. When taking this off, set the casting aside and put the bolts in each location where they came out from. This is very important for reassembly.
- Remove the fan-clutch from the water pump. The big bolt is right-hand threaded. Mine would not budge at all. I had to remove the water pump and fan-clutch assembly together. Make sure you remove the bolts and place them in the same order to reassemble later. Since you are going eFan, you can just saw-zal the right handed nut off while the assembly is in a vice. Just cut mid-point or a little closer to the fan to separate them.
- clean off the old water-pump gasket on the engine. If the water-pump looks fine, (the inside impeller has NO scrapes onto the beveled surface and it spins well) get a new Felt-Pro gasket (thicker than most) and reassemble to the engine.
- Since much of the hardware is off the engine, you can replace the T-stat with a super stant and inspect the heater hoses.
- Reassemble the AC compressor.
- reassemble the alternator.
- put the belt back on or a new belt.
- STOP and think here. If you have the new eFan, now is the time to slip it into the engine bay before the RAD and hoses get reassembled. Just make sure the eFan assembly and it's shroud can fit between the cross-member and the AC hoses at the top or in through the bottom past the tranny cooler lines. Take measurements first!
A few eFans perform well with the Ram Vans. One, the eFan for the Dodge Ram Trucks. Another that fits like OEM because it's OEM is the Dodge Viper eFan. When I replace the RAD in my Ram Van, the RAD will fit the Viper, Ram Truck and the Ram Van. A few have used the deal eFan assembly from the Ford Taurus.
To do just the regular job of getting the water-pump, hoses, RAD, T-stat replaced without the eFan took me, a basic home garage mechanic, about 10 hours. I went slow at it just to avoid any mistakes. My Hayes repair manual was alright, but between the two Dodge forums, the help was even better. Just a week earlier, another member did what I just finished doing.
Hope this all helps you some.