Towing Capacity and Overheating
SWEET!
A few months back, I posted a "How To" for changing the radiator, the water pump and the T-stat.
I must say, those OEM Valeo radiators made in Mexico really do not last long. Mice looked worse than yours, but both of ours had the same rotting issues.
Make sure you use only 50% DISTILLED WATER and 50% coolant if concentrated or run with the 50/50 pre-mix. When I changed my van's entire cooling loop, I had switched back to the dependable green stuff coolant. The newer long-life or extended-life coolants have less of a corrosion inhibitor package in them. That's why the freeze plugs on the engine go too soon.
A few months back, I posted a "How To" for changing the radiator, the water pump and the T-stat.
I must say, those OEM Valeo radiators made in Mexico really do not last long. Mice looked worse than yours, but both of ours had the same rotting issues.
Make sure you use only 50% DISTILLED WATER and 50% coolant if concentrated or run with the 50/50 pre-mix. When I changed my van's entire cooling loop, I had switched back to the dependable green stuff coolant. The newer long-life or extended-life coolants have less of a corrosion inhibitor package in them. That's why the freeze plugs on the engine go too soon.
I was thinking that 10-12 years for an all metal radiator was not that bad for longevity. Even when the cooling fins rot the radiator still cools OK as long as you keep the inside clean.
When the air-centers rot away the RAD tubes have no place to dissipate the heat load. Keeping the cooling loop inside clean is a healthy solution for the system. The outside environment can still have an adverse effect on the cooling loop as well.
Michgan winters are tough on all vehicles......
M!CH!GAN winters are fine, it's the swiss cheese roads and gravel roads that will do a vehicle in. I grew up near Port Huron. Lost two vehicles to M!CH!GAN roads for the suspension and the cancer or rust.






