Buying a van, could use advice
#1
05-25-2013, 10:10 PM
Buying a van, could use advice
Heading down to buy this tomorrow, unless there's any significant problems. Only reported issue is a little bit of oil usage, and a broken odometer (quit at 122K).
UPDATE
Ok, dun bought the thing, paid $1200. A bit less than promised, but nothing that really scares me. Oil problem looks to be a leak of some sort rather than usage. Parking brake is frozen, as i suspect is the rear brakes, won't be cheap to fix, but i expect on an old van shouldn't be anything really huge. Vibrates and makes a thrumming at highway speed, that's the biggest worry, i'm guessing rear bearings or something along those lines considering the brake issue. Bit dented on the passenger doors, not sure what i'm going to do about that since aside from needing to close the side door hard, no problem. Steering is tight with no wander, or at least as tight as steering gets on these vans (i drive a Sedona and a Cobalt right now).
Its now at the mechanics for inspection, which'll nessitate brake work, then we'll be on the road, rest of the problems will be sorted ASAP as the budget allows.
UPDATE
Ok, dun bought the thing, paid $1200. A bit less than promised, but nothing that really scares me. Oil problem looks to be a leak of some sort rather than usage. Parking brake is frozen, as i suspect is the rear brakes, won't be cheap to fix, but i expect on an old van shouldn't be anything really huge. Vibrates and makes a thrumming at highway speed, that's the biggest worry, i'm guessing rear bearings or something along those lines considering the brake issue. Bit dented on the passenger doors, not sure what i'm going to do about that since aside from needing to close the side door hard, no problem. Steering is tight with no wander, or at least as tight as steering gets on these vans (i drive a Sedona and a Cobalt right now).
Its now at the mechanics for inspection, which'll nessitate brake work, then we'll be on the road, rest of the problems will be sorted ASAP as the budget allows.
Last edited by javataur; 05-26-2013 at 02:33 PM. Reason: Dun bought the van
#3
05-26-2013, 06:42 AM
These were good vehicles at the time but lack significant improvements made in the next generation. No overdrive means poor highway milage and although the classic 318 was an amazingly reliable engine, the Magnum 5.2 version that appears a year or two later has numerous upgrades that results in about 30% more power across the board for the same gas milage.
Parts are becoming harder and harder to source for 20+ year old vehicles. If you need a spindle or a straight bumper, you probably only have salvage yard parts to choose from today. Truth is you can find a 1997 - 2000 for around this price if you are willing to accept a little damage. Your speedometer, same thing. The gears are probably worn out and broken off and you may be able to do a search online and replace them but otherwise you'll have to get another (used) instrument panel/cluster.
That said, here's the advice: If it blows blue smoke when you start it ( or gun it ) then the engine is whipped & needs rebuilt so I'd pass. If it doesn't go into drive immediately when you shift to D, or any gear seems hesitant, I'd pass. Crawl underneath with a flashlight and check for rust on the framerails, esp around the steering box. If there are large flakes of rust separated from the metal, odd dark sections that arent oil soaked, or anything that looks like half-*** frame repairs, pass. Also strongly suggest you get on a ladder (or as high as you can) and carefully inspect the roof for rust. Rust claimed most of these before the powertrain ever failed and while it can usually be repaired it frequently is not worth the expense. Amateur welding by idiots, maybe.. but arc welding and frame restoration done by a professional is not at all cheap today.
Good luck and welcome to the forums!
Parts are becoming harder and harder to source for 20+ year old vehicles. If you need a spindle or a straight bumper, you probably only have salvage yard parts to choose from today. Truth is you can find a 1997 - 2000 for around this price if you are willing to accept a little damage. Your speedometer, same thing. The gears are probably worn out and broken off and you may be able to do a search online and replace them but otherwise you'll have to get another (used) instrument panel/cluster.
That said, here's the advice: If it blows blue smoke when you start it ( or gun it ) then the engine is whipped & needs rebuilt so I'd pass. If it doesn't go into drive immediately when you shift to D, or any gear seems hesitant, I'd pass. Crawl underneath with a flashlight and check for rust on the framerails, esp around the steering box. If there are large flakes of rust separated from the metal, odd dark sections that arent oil soaked, or anything that looks like half-*** frame repairs, pass. Also strongly suggest you get on a ladder (or as high as you can) and carefully inspect the roof for rust. Rust claimed most of these before the powertrain ever failed and while it can usually be repaired it frequently is not worth the expense. Amateur welding by idiots, maybe.. but arc welding and frame restoration done by a professional is not at all cheap today.
Good luck and welcome to the forums!
Thanks, this is just the kind of advice i was looking for. Based on the KBB value, i was already figuring it was only worth it if there were no obvious problems, but wasn't sure what to look for specific problem. I'm partial to Dodge vehicles for whatever reason, so i've been trying to find one when Fords and Chevys are far more common.
As to the fuel economy, i'm not too worried, i do deliveries using a Kia Sedona currently which gets 18MPG, and requires two trips to complete the work. Upgrading to a full sized will save me a trip, at least 20 miles, upwards of an hours, and i expect not a huge drop in mileage since the current one is bottom of the barrel for minivan mileage.
#5
05-26-2013, 09:57 PM
Grins, "Oh, and one odd thing, the van has a factory four speed, the O/D shut off button is in the dash, and looks factory, even has a rather lame 'wood' grain bezel around it."
#6
05-27-2013, 07:46 AM
Record Breaker
#7
05-27-2013, 12:58 PM
The vibration and noise could also be worn/old, and or out of balance tires. I have noticted on 3 vans as the tires wear/age that the rear end seems to make more noise as the vehicle is driven, yet change to new tires and the rear end gets quiet all of a sudden.