Could you post the whole number?

 

There are several #'s, but here they are:
Module S/N - TEH347422592
under that # are #'s 16 15-35 2 BF
Also has: Chrysler P/N 56028347
then 5602 8347

 

http://www.shipecm.com/index.php?rou...product_id=384

See, now wasn't that easy!

 

THANKS! Hope that is it and not the plug...

 

The PCM is your best bet. It is very possible you're moving something around inside the PCM. The PCM is potted with silicone. When you take it apart, you'll see the heatsinks protruding from the silicone but you can't get to the circuits.

You're having a run of bad luck with O'Reilly's. Curious which brand of PCM you got from O'Reilly's. Borg Warner? A1 Cardone? Other?

After I captured my 94 van's PCM's failed coil drive signal with my oscilloscope, I removed the PCM connector and checked for continuity between the coil drive wire* and the applicable pin in the connector while tugging on the wire to check for a bad crimp in the factory wire harness. I had to remove the backshell (cover on the back of the connector) in order to get a good local grip on the wire so I could tug at it. The backshell was easy to unsnap and reinstall.

I also checked all the PCM's ground wires/pins (3 of them) at the connector in this manner. Then, I checked continuity between all those grounds and both the van chassis and the battery's negative terminal. All wires/pins associated with driving the coil checked good so I replaced the PCM.

I have an alldatadiy.com account for my 94 van so I knew exactly which connector pins to check. If you don't have a schematic with pin assignments, wire colors, and the connector's pin arrangement, you can't really check specific pins in the manner that I described above.

I hope your next PCM is a good match and fixes the problem with your van.

Jeff

* I used some of the insulation-piercing probes to connect to individual wires near the connector. The type of probes I speak of are show in the facebook pictures I provided a link to in an earlier reply.

 

O'Reilly's ordered it through A1 Cardone, but they said they couldn't find anymore from anyone, of course, I'm not sure who else they actually checked with. I have ordered a PCM from shipecm, should be in soon. Had to use the van today to move some things, it didn't hardly want to start even using the blow dryer, but it did, but quit down the road, finally got it restarted, but this time I noticed a new thing, when it cuts off the radio power cuts out and then comes back on and when it comes back on it would start??? Where would I check for possible grounds, etc.

 

Pulled out the alldatdiy.com schematic prints for my 94 van. I don't know if the 94 and 95 have identical ignition wiring. Most likely, for basic areas like power switched to the PCM and radio, it will be the same. Others who know the differences between the 94 and 95 could provide that info.

The ignition switch has 4 positions: ACC, OFF, RUN, and START. I assume in both cases that you mentioned (radio on and radio off), you had the key in the RUN position, i.e., right before you started or attempted to start the engine. According to my schematic, power should be present at signals A21 and A31 when the ignition switch is in the RUN position. The ignition switch switches power to A21 and A31 from a single signal line: A1.

A21 provides 12V power to the coils of both shutdown relays (one relay switches power to the injectors and the ignition coil, the other relay switches power to the fuel pump). Without 12V at A21, the van won't start for multiple reasons: no spark, no fuel injector activation, and no fuel pumped from the tank.

A31 provides 12V power to the radio.

So, it's either an intermittent connection/splice in the 12V source to the ignition switch (A1, which is a solid red AWG 12 wire in the 94 van) or an intermittent failure in the ignition switch.

I'd try jiggling/torquing the ignition key while it's in the RUN position to see if you can make the radio go on and off. If that doesn't work, you most likely have an intermittent power source to the ignition switch. Try jiggling the key and let us know what you find. By the way, it's normal for the radio to go off when the ignition switch is in the start position to crank the engine.

Don't feel bad about ordering the PCM. If the old one was original, it needed replacing. The potting material in my van's old PCM had open splits in it and was falling apart (Texas and southern environments are especially hard on silicone potting). Any time the potting starts splitting like that, moisture intrusion and failure will follow. Plus, sounds like you got a good price.

If your tests don't indicate an intermittent in the ignition switch in the RUN position, I'll get into the details of tracking down problems with the wiring between the battery and the ignition switch.

Jeff

 

Thanks, I'll try some more wiggling on the key, etc. It may be??? more than one issue too, since it "usually" starts immediately after putting a blow dryer to the PCM and "usually" will quit when pressing on the big plug going into the PCM. It will be next week before the PCM gets here...

 

You're fortunate to have a situation where you can induce the failure.

I tried using a friend's pneumatic tools to stop my van by hammering at the connector's mounting bolt, the PCM's mounting screws, and the firewall near the PCM mounting screws. The van just kept running. However, I knew from the scope data that it had to be the PCM that was at fault.

Two or more failures can be discovered during troubleshooting a problem. I had that experience with an intermittent ignition failure on an 85 Toyota truck.

 

Thanks for the reply, when the PCM gets here maybe I'll know more. one problem not many REAL GOOD mechanics here, as far as electrical that is, had a couple look at it, but not much help... Trail and error for now...