Has anyone ever...
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I do have real good torque wrench and I'm aware of torque patterns. I'm getting a remanufactured long block so should just have to deal with attaching basic parts, no heads. Thanks for input on gasket sealer.
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Well I managed to get the engine in but it still took me several weeks to do it (have to rely on friends to do any heavy lifting). There are two things that I have questions on that maybe someone could help with. On the right side of the engine there are two vacuum ports, one for the PCV valve and the other I can't remember. I've been looking at the service manual but haven't found anywhere that shows what line goes there. Anyone know? The second item is will the engine show any oil pressure just by cranking it? I'd like to see something before I actually start it.
TIA,
Michael Wagner
TIA,
Michael Wagner
Depends which gaskets your are installing. If you are installing heads and exhaust manifolds the answer is NO. Water pumps, thermostat housings yes, some RTV is always a good idea to use. Using sealer on valve cover gaskets is a person choice.
Just make sure you have a good torque wench, and get the sequence and progression of torquing pattern correct. When I say progression, you will torque each bolt in the pattern a little at a time, and repeat the process and pattern until you get to the proper torque for each bolt in the pattern. This will help insure an even seating of the gasket.
Are you going to take your heads to a Machine shop to have your valves seats, Valves, guides, springs, and rocker arms checked?
In all honesty I have not been deep in an engine for quite some time but you want to make sure if you have push rods they are in good shape and tolerance. Personally I always replace them and the lifters just to avoid problems of a collapsed or sticky lifters.
One of the things I used to do was get two pieces of card board and mark them left and right. I would punch holes in the cardboard and number them for the push rods for each cylinder so if I happened to reuse the push rods and lifters they would be put back in the same place and direction. That way the rods would be mated with the same rocker arm and wear pattern that already existed. Some people do this and some do not.
It all depends on the type of rebuild you are doing.
Keep in mind that some of my comments apply only if you are doing a Short Block rebuild and others only apply if you are doing a long block. Of course with a turn key type engine you don't have to worry about a lot of these things.
Jason
Just make sure you have a good torque wench, and get the sequence and progression of torquing pattern correct. When I say progression, you will torque each bolt in the pattern a little at a time, and repeat the process and pattern until you get to the proper torque for each bolt in the pattern. This will help insure an even seating of the gasket.
Are you going to take your heads to a Machine shop to have your valves seats, Valves, guides, springs, and rocker arms checked?
In all honesty I have not been deep in an engine for quite some time but you want to make sure if you have push rods they are in good shape and tolerance. Personally I always replace them and the lifters just to avoid problems of a collapsed or sticky lifters.
One of the things I used to do was get two pieces of card board and mark them left and right. I would punch holes in the cardboard and number them for the push rods for each cylinder so if I happened to reuse the push rods and lifters they would be put back in the same place and direction. That way the rods would be mated with the same rocker arm and wear pattern that already existed. Some people do this and some do not.
It all depends on the type of rebuild you are doing.
Keep in mind that some of my comments apply only if you are doing a Short Block rebuild and others only apply if you are doing a long block. Of course with a turn key type engine you don't have to worry about a lot of these things.
Jason
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I pumped some oil into the oil pressure sensor hole and was able to see oil pressure while cranking over the engine. I have started it up but have run into an issue where I'm getting a 1391 code (intermittent loss of cam position sensor or crank position sensor). I've looked at each item and don't see anything visually wrong. Not sure how to isolate which one it could be. One question does the plate that connects the torque converter to the crankshaft have any indexing to deal with? I saw no indication nor did I see anything on the plate when I attached it.
Thanks,
Michael Wagner
Thanks,
Michael Wagner
Well I managed to get the engine in but it still took me several weeks to do it (have to rely on friends to do any heavy lifting). There are two things that I have questions on that maybe someone could help with. On the right side of the engine there are two vacuum ports, one for the PCV valve and the other I can't remember. I've been looking at the service manual but haven't found anywhere that shows what line goes there. Anyone know? The second item is will the engine show any oil pressure just by cranking it? I'd like to see something before I actually start it.
TIA,
Michael Wagner
TIA,
Michael Wagner
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Thanks Jason,
I actually found the vacuum line, my friend had really stuffed aside. As to the 1391 code, I just bit the bullet and bought a new crankshaft sensor and a rebuilt distributer (only way to get the cam shaft sensor). The 1391 code is gone. The only thing I'm dealing with now is a ticking sound from the distributer. When I checked it I found the spring metal piece on the rotor was bent. I straightened it out but still have the sound and the metal piece was bent again when I re-opened the distributer. I'm wondering if I put the cap on incorrectly and damaged it. Will try a new rotor tomorrow. Otherwise it's running great.
Michael
I actually found the vacuum line, my friend had really stuffed aside. As to the 1391 code, I just bit the bullet and bought a new crankshaft sensor and a rebuilt distributer (only way to get the cam shaft sensor). The 1391 code is gone. The only thing I'm dealing with now is a ticking sound from the distributer. When I checked it I found the spring metal piece on the rotor was bent. I straightened it out but still have the sound and the metal piece was bent again when I re-opened the distributer. I'm wondering if I put the cap on incorrectly and damaged it. Will try a new rotor tomorrow. Otherwise it's running great.
Michael
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From: Newburgh, NY
I'd be interested in knowing cost as well. I'm trying to decide if I should put a new engine in my 3500 or scrap it. Also, any issues you had and where you bought the long block. Thanks in advance!