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92' B250 no power when turning key to start?

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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 12:14 PM
  #11  
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Will be replacing the disti cap and pickup this evening. I hate throwing more parts at it but I know this pickup coil is a known issue with these Dodges, plus it's a cheap part.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 12:16 PM
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So I recheck battery grounds once again, anyone know where they are all located. I saw two small ones on the fire wall and two connecting togeather on front of engine block at top of engine. Are there others?
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 03:27 PM
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Update: new disti cap and pickup installed last night. Poked around under the hood again looking at the wires, pulled ASD relay and cleaned tips. Cleaned possitive terminal on battery again, getting build up in just a few days. It's stalling still, idles too low when cold starting and sometimes stalls at lights. IAC, TPS, plugs, wires, fuel filter all replaced in last 6 months. I guess I'll have a bench test on coil and battery next. Anyone know why I would not idle higher RPMs when first cold starting and why it won't start after stalling until CE light pops back up on dash? Sometimes it fires back right away, sometime it won't for up to 30 minutes. Coolant Temp Sensor perhaps? Leak in manifold gasket? EGR? Maybe gap off on one of the plugs? Not so vantastic here, need some thoughts out there....
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 05:10 PM
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Did you replace the MAP yet?
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by CT's B250
Update: new disti cap and pickup installed last night. Poked around under the hood again looking at the wires, pulled ASD relay and cleaned tips. Cleaned possitive terminal on battery again, getting build up in just a few days. It's stalling still, idles too low when cold starting and sometimes stalls at lights. IAC, TPS, plugs, wires, fuel filter all replaced in last 6 months. I guess I'll have a bench test on coil and battery next. Anyone know why I would not idle higher RPMs when first cold starting and why it won't start after stalling until CE light pops back up on dash? Sometimes it fires back right away, sometime it won't for up to 30 minutes. Coolant Temp Sensor perhaps? Leak in manifold gasket? EGR? Maybe gap off on one of the plugs? Not so vantastic here, need some thoughts out there....
If you have battery corrosion accumulating in just a few days, you have a, or a few problems.
1. The battery case is cracked at the post
2. The battery is not holding a charge, so the alternator is running all the time to charge the battery, making a lot of gas
3. You have sufating plates inside the battery. The battery will not every take a charge right in this condiiton. This will also cause a lot of corrosion.

I would take a hard look at the condition of your battery. Sounds like you need a new one.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2012 | 05:58 AM
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if grounds and batt are good swap out yer ecm w/known good one--'bout $40 exchange at autozone
 
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 10:46 AM
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Update: the stalling at idle turned out to be incorrectly gapped spark plug, .44 vs .35, I have myself to blame for that...
The ignition issues come and go still, usually kills van then won't start until CEL comes back on. I noticed this weekend when it was acting up I popped the ECM with the palm of hand and heard the relays kick on. Things done: I have removed the wire harness bolted onto PCM to check wires (looked ok) and added connection greese to pins.
Other times I can wiggled wires under dash and it comes back on so possible short in there or PCM is going bad...hate to throw a $160 to $180 PCM in there and not fix it. I guess next step is to cont. to look at the wires leading into PCM and see if something looks off?
 
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