Thank you in advance for any help anyone can give me.
This is a 1995 Ram 2500 conversion van, recently purchased.
(1) Ignition switch does not start vehicle, so a second keyed switch was added as a helper. Original switch still works with key and in "acc" and "on". The issue with second key is that it doesn't snap back to stop starter from running. Is this hard to replace? Is there a certain amp switch to use? Is a push button switch better?

(2) When interior light is turned to the "on" position, the light turns off.
(3) No rear lighting whatsoever. No switches work. All the switches in front as well as the rear have green indicator lights, but none of them light up.
(4) No markings on the cover for the fuse box, so I have no idea what's what, or even if the right amp fuses are there. I pulled each fuse out and none were blown. All I have is a light tester and only 1/2 of them seem to be working. Does anyone have a diagram of this?
(5) Under the hood above the radiator there is another fuse block, but none of these light up the tester. Maybe I'm checking them wrong?
(6) A/C clutch does not cycle on and off, it stays running when A/C is on. Is this electrical? I just added freon a couple days ago.
(7) Check engine light came on today and stayed on.

I'm no auto mechanic or electrician and don't pretend to be one on TV, but would like to try correcting these issues myself if possible. The funds are too low to start replacing parts and paying professionals right now.
I would appreciate any help and advice.

 

1) Rip it all out and install a new ignition switch.
2) What switch are you using to turn on the lights, the door open switch, the dash dimmer switch, or a conversion van add-on switch?
3) Blown fuse in the add-on fuse panel?
4) See if any of the images in this thread match your fuse box: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-r...rsion-van.html
5) For many the key has to be on. Also, make sure you've got a good clean ground point for the black lead when testing for power.
6) A/C clutches are not supposed to cycle, if they do it indicates you're low on R-134a.
7) You have to have it scanned because we need to know the code to help you with the CEL.

 

The dash dimmer switch. I'll have to get a scan for any code. The only fuse box that looks similar, is the one in the passenger compartment, behind driver's seat, but they aren't blown either. I'll take some pics and post them. Thank you for your response.

 

You will know you have the headlight **** turned to the correct position when the cabin lights come on and off when you open the doors. In my van the interior lights also dim a little when you pull the **** out to turn on the exterior lighting.

I tried to combat this dimming once by adjusting the **** for full brightness with the **** and unknowingly had turned on a bunch of stuff that would drain the battery. The battery will be dead after a couple days if you leave the **** in the wrong position.

Your larger power problem is probably a bad connection on one of the batteries. Does anything work when you plug in your shore power? Take all the battery connections off and clean them up.

Steve

 

Thanks Steve, but I only have 1 battery, and no external outlets for shore power. My hope was to get an inverter put in have small appliances. The rear audio system does not work either.