hi all, need a little help in what to look for. The van seems to quit running for a split second occasionally at maybe 40 mph and above a real split second i think wait a split second and it kind of jerks. New pcm, transducer, governor,aic,tps , camshaft and crankcase solenoids had a rear o2 sensor cel come on wiggled wire cleared code 500 miles no code came up since. Could it be plugs or wires? What happens if a wire goes bad or arcs? Thanks for any help p.s. it seems to skip a beat and i think when it happens i hear a click coming from below the middle of the seats also one more thing can the coil be starting to go bad or does a coil just quit. I've replaced the coil a few times

 

I had this happening to me most of last year. The middle of the winter the crankshaft position sensor went out. I replaced it and the split second cut-out problem went away.

 

thank you i will try that

 

My 89 was getting that split second cut out last year.

It was a failed solder contact on the engine computer circuit board connector. It was only really noticeable when going uphill.

Later on it progressed into full out stalling or a No start.

I depotted the circuit board, reflowed/ added solder to the Pins, and no more stalls or hiccups since.

 

few months ago i got a pcm from florida then there was an error code sent it back and then they sent the my original back and been working fine but maybe it's going again but it happens for a split sec then continues on with a slight bucking of trans. Now my question is what do you mean add solder to pins? thanks for your time

 

My ECM has two separate circuit boards. On has a 14 pin connector, one has a 60 pin connector.

The 14 pin connector's pins were loose, the solder contacts on the circuit board were broken, so the pin was floating around, mostly making electrical contact, sometimes not, and it would cause a stall, or a quick hiccup, and sometimes a no start.

wiggling the 14 pin connector allowed restarting. Zipties exerting pressure in such and such a manner allowed me to drive 500 miles home on a road trip where I thought I was Screwed.

I replaced the compromised connector with a junkyard connector, and the problem continued, So then I opened up the ECM, removed all the silicone potting around the 14 pins, and got it extremely clean, and used a 140 watt solder gun to remelt the solder on the circuit board pin connection, and added a little bit more solder as well. The loose pins were now tight, and I've not suffered a stall/hiccup since.

I'd also gone a bit Nutty with the Caig Deoxit products and precision swabs, cleaning/ buffing every electrical connector, every sensor connector, everywhere.

After I did my Map and 02 and TPS sensors, it felt like I removed 500 Lbs from the Van. They were extremely oxidized despite being bathed in dielectric grease. My engine has never run better, and around town MPG rose above expected levels, have not done any highway runs for comparison there.

I still need to send off my original ECM to be rebuilt somewhere so I have a backup.

I'd ordered another remanufactured ECM late last year, but it did not work properly and gave me a fuel injector code, and I sent it back.

The electronics cleaners sold in Autoparts stores do not do anything for the oxidation on the pins and sockets of electrical contacts. The Caig products do, and I consider them to be magic electrical contact juice, and do not open any connector without getting some D5 or D100 on the contacts, and use swabs until they are no longer rough, but shiny and smooth like oiled gold or chrome. Contacts that look pristine before the Caig Deoxit, still shred the swabs and turn them black.

 

happened to me on my 1979.
Got worse until finally full stall at highway speed, would not restart until 20 min passed.
Problem as starter solenoid, replaced and no problem since.