Are Codes 17 and 41 something or nothing?
#1
Are Codes 17 and 41 something or nothing?
Hi All,
I recently did some work on my 1991 Dodge B250 Van with the 318 including changing both temperature sensors and the O2 sensor. I am now getting a "Check Engine" light every once in a while and they are the same codes each time I check.
Let's start with Code 17, Engine is cold too long. Is there a way to determine what temperature the van thinks the engine is? Changing the indicator sensor worked really well, I now get good response across the temperature range but I don't know how the other sensor is doing.
As for Code 41, Generator field not switching properly, is there a symptom I should be getting? The van runs pretty good with a stumble in the idle every once in a while.
Is it possible that changing most of the sensors just confused the PCM? Should I try clearing its memory some how?
Cheers, Steve
I recently did some work on my 1991 Dodge B250 Van with the 318 including changing both temperature sensors and the O2 sensor. I am now getting a "Check Engine" light every once in a while and they are the same codes each time I check.
Let's start with Code 17, Engine is cold too long. Is there a way to determine what temperature the van thinks the engine is? Changing the indicator sensor worked really well, I now get good response across the temperature range but I don't know how the other sensor is doing.
As for Code 41, Generator field not switching properly, is there a symptom I should be getting? The van runs pretty good with a stumble in the idle every once in a while.
Is it possible that changing most of the sensors just confused the PCM? Should I try clearing its memory some how?
Cheers, Steve
Last edited by SteveR; 07-13-2015 at 08:39 PM. Reason: Added Code 41 description
#4
1 wire temp sender is for the gauge, 2 wire temp sensor is for the computer.
The sensor could be fine and your thermostat is stuck open.
The 41 means something inthe charging system is not working properly.
Your voltage with the engine running needs to be anywhere from 13.7 to 14.7.
The dashboard voltmeter or Ammeter are useless at determining proper function of the charging system.
Put a voltmeter on battery terminals, and make sure your battery to firewall and battery to engine grounds are not compromised, as well as the connections on the back of the alternator.
The sensor could be fine and your thermostat is stuck open.
The 41 means something inthe charging system is not working properly.
Your voltage with the engine running needs to be anywhere from 13.7 to 14.7.
The dashboard voltmeter or Ammeter are useless at determining proper function of the charging system.
Put a voltmeter on battery terminals, and make sure your battery to firewall and battery to engine grounds are not compromised, as well as the connections on the back of the alternator.
#5
I see, there is a possibility that the stat is stuck. It is one of those fail safe units and I climbed some big hills last year which pegged the gauge but I didn't quite overheat.
I guess I better go buy a decent multi-meter too. The non-industrial testers don't seem to last more than a couple years.
Thanks guys, Steve
I guess I better go buy a decent multi-meter too. The non-industrial testers don't seem to last more than a couple years.
Thanks guys, Steve
#6