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Axle tube lengths

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Old 09-18-2015, 09:23 PM
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Default Axle tube lengths

I was removing the rear yoke straps to the drive shaft on my 2001, 3500 conversion van. When I got the straps off the drive shaft popped off the rear pumpkin and I noticed it is off-center by a few inches. The passenger axle tube is 16 3/8" long while the drivers side is 22 3/8". I also measured the distance between the inside of the tires. The front is 56 3/4" and the rear is 53 1/4". I checked the FSM and it doesn't list the dimensions so does anyone know if this is correct?
 
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Old 09-23-2015, 09:59 PM
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Called the Roadtrek tech line and this is normal. Seems this setup was used on many vehicles I was told.
 
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Old 09-24-2015, 09:38 AM
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why would you question something like rear end dimensions... something that has obviously worked for nearly 15 years?

I have the same year/model (badged as a 2500, but has 3500 frame and axles with 8 lug bolts on all wheels) but mine is an extended van and not a Roadtrek or conversion of any sort and I have the 5.2 liter with 4.10 rear end. I got it 4 years ago with 129K miles from a painter that used it daily for 9 years in his business. I now have 190K miles and use it for road trips mostly highway miles.

I have replaced the tranny with a rebuilt Jasper unit for about $2400. Mine was throwing codes and after having it inspected it needed to be replaced. I wanted it to be reliable so I bit the bullet and got it done. I also had a '94 B250 which went out about 113,000 miles on me. At that time I was ignorant of preventive tranny maintenance. I am now older and wiser.

New Rad also went in at that time with new fan clutch, idler pulley, hoses, plugs wires, cap. The plugs were original, and except for one especially rusted one, all came out fairly easily. All this info on what parts are best to use can be found by searching these threads, as I have done for years. Great info here for these old vans.

Changed rear end oil. Of course new brakes and rotors and brake hoses in the front. The front hoses collapse internally, trapping pressure and grind up pads and rotors prematurely if not replaced due to age of the rubber.

I installed an additional new ground strap from battery - to the frame and cleaned all the other ground strap connections with a product called Deoxit D5. I also used D5 on any/all electrical connections that I can find as electrical problems are common on these old vans due to corrosion at the connectors... so far so good with mine. I have not done anything in/under the dash... YET!

I got a mechanic to put it on a lift and we both inspected the entire undercarriage for rust. My rear floor was rotted out GONE ( you had better inspect yours under the carpeting) close to the wheel wells and I cut out bad metal and repaired the floor by screwing sheet aluminum across a repainted deck and filling the gaps with foam. I then shot about 10 big cans of rubberized undercoating on all undercarriage surfaces to prevent further rust. The rest of the body was pretty good except for lower side panels which got fixed. I added a 10,000# capacity tow bar and bolted it to the frame and added a brake controller for my TT. I also added Air-Lift air bags to support the weight of the TT tongue on the extended frame.

I pull a 5000# TT to FL from KY for the winter and stay there for 3 months with the wife. I need something dependable and so far this van has been good. A little under-powered for my liking, so I don't push it hard especially when towing. I let her go down hills fast and back up the other side at whatever speed I can get out of her without downshifting ( I stay out of overdrive when towing). I just had it weighed at a CAT scale, loaded down for camping and it came in at 7280# with about a 550# tongue weight from the TT on the rear. Pretty hefty for this old girl.

I need to fix the AC which went out on me this summer (next year's project as I got it estimated at $650 for a total replacement). And I probably need a new coil, which I am going to buy and carry with me and replace when the need arises. I checked and replaced a few vacuum hoses in the engine compartment that I could get to. I bought a $60 Harbor Freight code reader and carry that with me all the time. Every now and then it will throw a code about a plug misfire... but I attribute that to sitting through some big rains for a day or two, and then some cool foggy weather in the morning... as the codes go away for weeks and months at a time.

With a little TLC and some cash you can probably get yourself a nice ride for a number of years. Just be proactive on maintenance is my best advice.

Good luck
 
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Old 09-28-2015, 03:36 PM
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Thanks rsdata, good info, I did the tune-up and am working on the tranny(46RE). I found a post on ebay that sounded too good to be true and got taken. The tranny came back without my original overdrive housing, drain pan. Parts that were supposed to be new were old, and dirty. He didn't even clean the parts before putting it back together. Stay away from this one:http://www.ebay.com/itm/262051709361?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITHe also advertises on Craigs List;
https://allentown.craigslist.org/ptd/5209386683.html
Hope this helps someone, wish I did more checking before I jumped on this deal.
 



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