Some guy quoted me $1300+ to replace all 4 ball joints, on my 4000 lb suspension.

I was looking at the rockauto site and noticed you could just buy the control arms with the joints already installed. Even all 4 arms of the most expensive option, AC delco was around $500.

I'm wondering if this option makes more sense for me. This way I don't have to worry about the condition of my bushings - it's not clear how I would check that anyway. I don't have to get the joints out and install the new ones. I'm guessing it's an easier job (is that true?). Maybe just need a spring compressor?

I don't know if all 4 joints are bad, but I do know there is a lot of slop in one of the uppers, and the van wanders on the road.

Any strong opinion what quality level I should go for? Moog or AC Delco, or one of the cheaper options? I doubt I will carry very heavy loads in this van.

BTW, does anyone know the size of the star bit for removing the brake calipers? I know it is bigger than T40...

 

Have you tried to negotiate with mechanic?

 

You don't need a spring compressor but you do need some strong tools and lots of leverage to get the control arm bolts off, especially if they haven't been off since the factory installed them. I suggest if you do replace the lower control arms that you replace the strut rod bushings at the same time. The strut rod is that bar that runs from the lower control arm back on an angle to the frame.

 

I spent some money on an inspection, and just ordered $466 worth of parts to do it myself. Ball joints, tie rods, idler arms, wheel bearings and seals. If I can't manage it I will hand the parts to a shop to do it.

 

I think you will be alright, just take your time.

 

Use more than enough jack stands and wheel chocks .....

 

Pressing the lowers vs replacing the control arms -

Pressing is 100x easier than replacing the arms A standard press kit from Autozone etc. works just fine.

Ball joints are a pretty easy job. Concerning the lowers I have had luck with Moogs and Napas. I am unsure of the Delcos for the lowers, but take it from me, do not use cheap lowers - no don't do it . For the uppers this last time I tried Durlast since they looked beefy and they have performed well.

The uppers need a special socket and I recommend having an impact wrench available. With a 1/2 drive and a 18in breaker bar, it took most of my strength just to make them turn. An impact made it much easier.

Here is the socket needed for the uppers:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/272341354703?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

 

Also for the brake calipers, just take off the two 17mm or so bolts on the back side. Then you can take it whole thing off and put the whole thing back on it one shot.

 

You know what irritates me when it comes to engineers. They design the upper ball joint to use a 1-59/64" socket square with rounded corners. Why not make it hex at an even 1-15/16", or 2" so that the socket has the chance of being used for something else. I can't think of another place where I would ever use a 1-59/64" socket shaped like that one.

 

Probably want to deter the do-it-yourselfers. Hmmm, I wonder if a pipe wrench will work.

I noticed in my Chilton manual they say to replace the lower ball joint, the control arm should be removed. That's not necessary, right? As long as I can find a decent press, just remove it after I lower the arm? Do I even need a press? Why not whack it with a hammer? I guess I will figure it out when I get into it.

It's good to hear I don't need a spring compressor.

That's what I was thinking. For some reason mine are not ordinary bolts, but some largish un-hex drive thing, like the reverse of a star drive. Maybe an ordinary socket will work, that will be what I try first.

I ordered all Moog parts, except for the idler arms.