Sticking caliper piston...
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From: Redding, CA.
Sticking caliper piston...
I had commented in another brake problem thread not long ago and finally had to take my front driver side wheel off to have a look today.
History is I replaced both calipers and hydraulic lines and cleaned and repacked bearings about 2 years ago, same type of problem as now, the caliper sticking, now have a bout 20-25 k on them.
I didn't replace rotors since they didn't look too bad (some grooves but mainly flat surface) so I scored them with the edge of a screw driver after sanding while spinning them. An old mechanic I know had shown me this trick which works out pretty okay in my experience.
So... a couple 3 weeks ago, just a few minutes on the highway driving home from work the van began to start pulling left, press on the brake and it would pull right and the steering wheel began to shake and get worse. I pulled off at an exit and took a look, shook the tires not sure what was up. Decided to get to the next exit and see what happens but the problem just went away.
Yesterday I was working close to home, short miles just driving around town and the issue came back and would not go away, it was the driver side (not passenger side) that was getting hot to the touch on the wheel, so took a look today.
Today I pulled the wheel and first thing I notice is all the brake dust and the rotor doesn't spin freely, no wobble just rotor not turning easily.
I pulled the caliper and pads, rusty and dusty looking but the rotors still look not overly bad, pads look about 60-70% good shape. I loosed the brake reservoir cap (fluid not quite to the low mark, but low) and begin to press in the pistons with a C clamp. The upper piston pressed in pretty easy but the lower gave the ole carrot cuffer a work out but did reluctantly press in.
Took some brake cleaner and sprayed around wiped and regreased some of the parts that move. I didn't extend the pistons out to coat the sides with a light bit of grease, unsure if I should?) . Put everything back together afterward, pumped brakes up and wheel was even harder to spin but thought take it for a short ride and see if it loosens up, still pulls a little bit and don't think I did much to resolve the problem.
So.. this is the question, I didn't think to try this before putting it back together but, would a coat of the brake grease help on the sides of the pistons (extended to max after the caliper) is off and then working them in and out a couple times help loosen the sticking one, or maybe it's best to replace the darned caliper again?
Won't mind hearing any thoughts and advice, thanks
History is I replaced both calipers and hydraulic lines and cleaned and repacked bearings about 2 years ago, same type of problem as now, the caliper sticking, now have a bout 20-25 k on them.
I didn't replace rotors since they didn't look too bad (some grooves but mainly flat surface) so I scored them with the edge of a screw driver after sanding while spinning them. An old mechanic I know had shown me this trick which works out pretty okay in my experience.
So... a couple 3 weeks ago, just a few minutes on the highway driving home from work the van began to start pulling left, press on the brake and it would pull right and the steering wheel began to shake and get worse. I pulled off at an exit and took a look, shook the tires not sure what was up. Decided to get to the next exit and see what happens but the problem just went away.
Yesterday I was working close to home, short miles just driving around town and the issue came back and would not go away, it was the driver side (not passenger side) that was getting hot to the touch on the wheel, so took a look today.
Today I pulled the wheel and first thing I notice is all the brake dust and the rotor doesn't spin freely, no wobble just rotor not turning easily.
I pulled the caliper and pads, rusty and dusty looking but the rotors still look not overly bad, pads look about 60-70% good shape. I loosed the brake reservoir cap (fluid not quite to the low mark, but low) and begin to press in the pistons with a C clamp. The upper piston pressed in pretty easy but the lower gave the ole carrot cuffer a work out but did reluctantly press in.
Took some brake cleaner and sprayed around wiped and regreased some of the parts that move. I didn't extend the pistons out to coat the sides with a light bit of grease, unsure if I should?) . Put everything back together afterward, pumped brakes up and wheel was even harder to spin but thought take it for a short ride and see if it loosens up, still pulls a little bit and don't think I did much to resolve the problem.
So.. this is the question, I didn't think to try this before putting it back together but, would a coat of the brake grease help on the sides of the pistons (extended to max after the caliper) is off and then working them in and out a couple times help loosen the sticking one, or maybe it's best to replace the darned caliper again?
Won't mind hearing any thoughts and advice, thanks
Record Breaker
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Alberta
So.. this is the question, I didn't think to try this before putting it back together but, would a coat of the brake grease help on the sides of the pistons (extended to max after the caliper) is off and then working them in and out a couple times help loosen the sticking one, or maybe it's best to replace the darned caliper again?
Won't mind hearing any thoughts and advice, thanks
if you need a c-clamp to push pistons back, they are nfg. Use the proper brake tool to push them back...this way when they don't move with the correct tool...you know they are seized...a c clamp will move anything back
just make sure your issue isn't a bad flex hose. if the pistons won't push back, crack the bleeder screw, if they now push back; the flex hose is bad.
Last edited by primem; Mar 12, 2017 at 12:01 AM.
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From: Redding, CA.
Hey Primem, really appreciate the advice.. without it I'd probably proceed with my own thinking to attempt to break the piston loose.
The one other thing not mentioned is that I never bled and replaced the brake fluid, so think I'll recruit a son and a son in law to help work the brake pedal one day soon for bleeding and one to keep fresh fluid in the reservoir after replacing that caliper and likely the flex line. Dang! hate doing it again but better take a look at the right side too while I'm at it to see how it's all looking. But for the miles on, it this van has been reasonably reliable and dependable through out all these years...
Much thanks again
The one other thing not mentioned is that I never bled and replaced the brake fluid, so think I'll recruit a son and a son in law to help work the brake pedal one day soon for bleeding and one to keep fresh fluid in the reservoir after replacing that caliper and likely the flex line. Dang! hate doing it again but better take a look at the right side too while I'm at it to see how it's all looking. But for the miles on, it this van has been reasonably reliable and dependable through out all these years...
Much thanks again
Last edited by JFloors; Mar 12, 2017 at 01:34 AM. Reason: spelling and additional thought
Thread Starter
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Veteran
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 410
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From: Redding, CA.
Just an update... I went ahead and replaced the caliper today and much to my surprise nothing at all went wrong!
Napa had one in stock with the bracket and set (no shoes) for about $60. plus core return $40.00 . Not too bad a damage to the wallet and the ole van is rolling again till the next breaking or broken part needs attention.
We've got 9k to go to roll over to 300,000 mark so will try to get there
Napa had one in stock with the bracket and set (no shoes) for about $60. plus core return $40.00 . Not too bad a damage to the wallet and the ole van is rolling again till the next breaking or broken part needs attention.
We've got 9k to go to roll over to 300,000 mark so will try to get there
