Hi, '95 Ram Van 12 passenger (but never more than 2 in it) 5.2 with 109K. This van has ran without any flaws for 5 years and with normal and routine maintenance performed. Suddenly, it will start normally when the engine is cold. Then the problems start. It dies out 5 seconds after a great start. I changed out cap, rotor, wires, (coil & pick up tested fine) plugs, O2 sensor, TPS, and Temp Sensor. Fuel pressure is normal and fuel pump was replaced just 5k ago. I don't believe there is another fuel filter besides the one in the tank. After it sits and returns to a cold engine, it will re-start perfectly and then just die again after running for 5-10 seconds. Any Ideas?
-Thanks,
Bob

 

Look for a leak somewhere in the intake tube between the air filter box and the manifold.This might not be the problem but it's a begining.Can you keep the engine running with the gas pedal?If so it could be an idle control problem.A problem that you can duplicate at will is far easier to track down than a phantom that comes and goes.

 

HI chopper.....thanks for the info. It will remain running for a few minutes at idle by itself without me ever touching the gas pedal. Under my hood shows the vacuum diagram and I replaced all the tubing without anything performance wise changing. (at least that was an easy & cheap replacement). When at idle it does not lope or change speeds, it stays strong, then just immediately shuts down. When I pull the code it only gives me "55" which indicates that it has finished pulling codes. I guess the fact that it gives a code at all means that my electronic control module (computer) is still good? Or is that just a guess on my part? Any help is greatly appreciated.
-THANKS
BOB

 

I don't know about your van but some engines have an Intake Air Temp. sensor.The sensor should be located in the large intake tube that runs from the air filter box.You might try replacing this.Do you have anyway of checking the fuel pressure?If so make sure the fuel pump is actually keeping the system pressurized.

 

Hi, my air intake does not have that particular sensor. I think my ECM is good because I was able to purposely disconnect the battery cable and then reconnect and pull the code. It was code# 12 which shows that my battery cables were removed during the last 50 start-ups. Then it goes to code #55 which tells me that it is finished pulling codes. Today I checked again all vaccuum connections. I have a feeling that this problem is minor and it is driving me nuts that I cannot find it. I have even gone out in the dark of night to start it and watch for any sparks or anything that would short out the engine and couldn't see anything. I have always figured myself to be a pretty fair "shadetree mechanic" but after changing out so many parts, checking fuel pressure (40 psi), changing wires, plugs, cap & rotor. I have even taken out a gallon of gasoline and taken it over to the academy in town (trade school also) to make sure it wasn't contaminated and they gave the gas a clean bill of health. I'm so frustrated....any help is greatly appreciated. 53 years old and being without a vehicle I feel like such a dope.

 

Well, I just want to let you all know that I was able to find my problem. While re-checking the resistance at the ignition coil, the female connector was not inserted all the way into the bottom of the coil. I guess I neglected to check this better the first time because I had spark at each plug when tested. However, at driving loads it would always immediately die out. Hence, the loose connection. I inserted the connector into the coil firmly and even added a clamp. VAROOM.....I'm back in business and thankful to all who commented or added advice. I will be in the forum often. Thanks Again
-Bob

 

just a little to add in case it might help some one else.
the problem symptoms were typical of another thing that i discovered a few years back.
Yes it would start and run but then after about 5-10 mins would get intermitant or stop. Leave it for a while to cool and away it would go again.
It turned out to be the ballast resistor. What was happening was that there was a crack in one of the elements and as the amps wnt thru it it warmed up and expanded. This broke the connection and it would just stop. Was a hell of a thing to find but all was well after i changed the ballast. I had to dig out the sealant from the back of the res toget a closer look.
Happy days.
Chris.