85 Van, 318 won't start, it's a mystery...
Well, I came from old VWs, so this whole "water cooled" technology is a little confusing...hehe
Basically I've got an 85 full size van with the 318, electronic carb, pretty much stock as far as I know. I drove it about 8 months before it decided to take a dump. It's still sitting exactly where I parked it the last time it ran(ran a little rough that night, and kinda hard to start, but it got me home). It will not start, almost, but not quite. I've got fuel and spark, but as soon as it fires up, it stalls. We got it to shoot some neato fireballs up through the carb with backfires, but it will not run. I've been told it could have jumped time, but others said it's more likely it has a distributor issue, weights or something. I know plenty of the basics, even built a couple engines(air-cooled vw, basically a glorified lawnmower engine). Is there some kind of simple test to see if it is the distributor?...or maybe something else to try?
Basically I've got an 85 full size van with the 318, electronic carb, pretty much stock as far as I know. I drove it about 8 months before it decided to take a dump. It's still sitting exactly where I parked it the last time it ran(ran a little rough that night, and kinda hard to start, but it got me home). It will not start, almost, but not quite. I've got fuel and spark, but as soon as it fires up, it stalls. We got it to shoot some neato fireballs up through the carb with backfires, but it will not run. I've been told it could have jumped time, but others said it's more likely it has a distributor issue, weights or something. I know plenty of the basics, even built a couple engines(air-cooled vw, basically a glorified lawnmower engine). Is there some kind of simple test to see if it is the distributor?...or maybe something else to try?
the symtoms you describe are typical of a timing chain jump. It gets worse the more times you crank it.
The problem used to be that the "silent running" nylon teeth on the cam wheel just give up at anything past 50.000.0 miles.
You end up with bits in the oil and this can make matters worse.
The easy way Way to find out if that is the problem.?
Lay under the van and with a long breaker bar fitted with a short ext and a suitable socket, gently tutrn the engine in a ANTI clockwise direction for about 1/4 turn. Then try to turn in a clockwise direction. You should be (if you got sensitive hands) able to feel "the slack" in the chain. You can also have someone else looking at the dist rotor and if it does not move until you have turned the engine for a 1/4 turn then you know yopu have a engine job on your hands.
At the very least you end up fitting a new "all metal" chain and gears. You will need the sump off (in the van) and spin out the shells for clean up. Put in a new oil pump and do the water pump whilst you are there because you would end up doing it sooner than later.
Happy Days,
Chris.
The problem used to be that the "silent running" nylon teeth on the cam wheel just give up at anything past 50.000.0 miles.
You end up with bits in the oil and this can make matters worse.
The easy way Way to find out if that is the problem.?
Lay under the van and with a long breaker bar fitted with a short ext and a suitable socket, gently tutrn the engine in a ANTI clockwise direction for about 1/4 turn. Then try to turn in a clockwise direction. You should be (if you got sensitive hands) able to feel "the slack" in the chain. You can also have someone else looking at the dist rotor and if it does not move until you have turned the engine for a 1/4 turn then you know yopu have a engine job on your hands.
At the very least you end up fitting a new "all metal" chain and gears. You will need the sump off (in the van) and spin out the shells for clean up. Put in a new oil pump and do the water pump whilst you are there because you would end up doing it sooner than later.
Happy Days,
Chris.
Thanks for the reply, I actually talked to another mechanic friend, and he says the same thing. I was planning on eventually replacing the motor anyway. So...anyone know a good place to get a decent crate motor? Would I be wise to upgrade to something besides the 318? I don't want it to be fast, and I never tow anything with it. I'd be happy if it got slightly better fuel economy, and I assume a new motor will be far better than this one(O.D. reads near 100K, but it's an ex-military vehicle, so it could've rolled). I've heard the Magnum 360 will fit, but am I wasting $$ and gas, or would it be a better motor?
Nothing wrong with a 318 or a 360, ( i have both in Dodge 1979+1983 Sportsmen) so long as they are looked after. (i prefer 383 myself) The 360 will pull better than the 318 and if you couple it up to a younger Auto with OD and Lock up then you have a great set up. BUT before you put it in to the van get rid of the OEM timing set up and replace with all metal chain and gear set. If you can afford it go for one of the aftermarket ALL GEAR helli mesh set ups. That will never let you down. 4 bbl is good with Elec ign. Even a MILD cam makes a hell of a diffrence.
Happy Days
Chris.
[IMG]local://upfiles/31915/C0118A0DE5E14623B9B22189F7EF47BC.jpg[/IMG]
Happy Days
Chris.
[IMG]local://upfiles/31915/C0118A0DE5E14623B9B22189F7EF47BC.jpg[/IMG]


