'95 B2500 - Rear end noise
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'95 B2500 - Rear end noise
This van has a 360 engine and has approx. 120k mi. Last Summer we had the brakes replaced including rotors, calipers, and wheel cylinders. ($700+ - first mechanic) In Noverber, since the rear end was whining, the entire set of differential bearings and wheel bearings were replaced ($700 - another mechanic). Two days ago my wife heard a slight whining noise but more of a rumbling-type of noise when she got it up to around 50 m.p.h. Sounded like it was coming from the right-rear wheel. Then yesterday, upon leaving the house, the rear end literally sounded like a popcorn popper was popping back there. I don't know which of these two repairs could have resulted in such a problem. Any ideas???
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Nashville
RE: '95 B2500 - Rear end noise
If you do any garage work yourself, then I would suggest taking off the right rear wheel and the brake drum. Check to see if the inside of the brake drum is smooth without any dings, nicks or scratches. Then check to see that the brake hardware didn't break loose from the mounting hardware. ei. the springs are seated well, the brake shoes are mounted properly and the wheel cylinders are not leaking nor their boots ripped.
As for the rear end, examine the outside first. Make sure the gasket to the rear plate is not leaking, nor any bolts missing. Next pop out the rear fill plug and stick your finger in there. If you can feel the fluid, then the level is good. If the fluid is gone, DO NOT DRIVE THE VAN. You'll need to either get a rear gasket kit and replace the damaged parts yourself for under $300 or find another mechanic again for around $500+ ~ $700.
If the differential is OK, then examine the universal joints. To change one is a two person job for the B2500 or B3500 since it weighs a heaping lot. This may be the culprit to your problem since the popping noise is a common with these parts. The cost for one universal joint usually runs from $20-40 depending on the part store. The drive shaft has two of them. One to connect to the transmission, the other to the rear end differential. The rule is, if you change one, change them BOTH! Even if a garage is doing the work since the shaft weighes a bunch. Also, if one is changed and the other is not, the old one will wear quicker since it can not rotate nor adjuest faster than the new one. Just replace BOTH. It's the smartest way to go. Most of the cost is the labor for doing this type of job. Out my way, the labor garage cost is $70 per hour. (YIKES). So, I try to do the work myself.
I hope others would chime in here too with more advice to assist you too.
Stev
As for the rear end, examine the outside first. Make sure the gasket to the rear plate is not leaking, nor any bolts missing. Next pop out the rear fill plug and stick your finger in there. If you can feel the fluid, then the level is good. If the fluid is gone, DO NOT DRIVE THE VAN. You'll need to either get a rear gasket kit and replace the damaged parts yourself for under $300 or find another mechanic again for around $500+ ~ $700.
If the differential is OK, then examine the universal joints. To change one is a two person job for the B2500 or B3500 since it weighs a heaping lot. This may be the culprit to your problem since the popping noise is a common with these parts. The cost for one universal joint usually runs from $20-40 depending on the part store. The drive shaft has two of them. One to connect to the transmission, the other to the rear end differential. The rule is, if you change one, change them BOTH! Even if a garage is doing the work since the shaft weighes a bunch. Also, if one is changed and the other is not, the old one will wear quicker since it can not rotate nor adjuest faster than the new one. Just replace BOTH. It's the smartest way to go. Most of the cost is the labor for doing this type of job. Out my way, the labor garage cost is $70 per hour. (YIKES). So, I try to do the work myself.
I hope others would chime in here too with more advice to assist you too.
Stev