Hello. I do not know if it has a lock-up converter or not. I just ordered the factory manual as the chilton is next to useless in terms of the trans. The van has 80,000 on it and it has always shifted great so I wouldn't think it would be from the cold. I always let it warm up anyway.Since it has been shifting fine the last couple days, Could a piece of dirt passing through the trans have caused this? I will let you all know what comes of this. Any more ideas? I really appreciate the time you folks give! Steve, I will look at the thread you suggested.

Keith

 

Hey all. Since the van in question has been out of use, I have not worked on it. but now I must get back on it! Upon re-reading my initial post I discovered I gave the wrong inf. I should have said that it lags when shiffting from second -third instead of 1st-2nd. My bad. I will have my bands adjusted and see if that fixes the problem. I just wanted to up-date you folks that were so kind to offer help! I am going to start a new thread about a control arm problem but will let you all know how the trans turns out when i get time to tend to it. Thanks again. Also, can I check the sensor and or solinoid with a volt meter and does this trans have modulator?


Keith
[hr]

 

None of the aftermarket manuls have much on the transmissions because they are generally considered to difficult to work on by the home wrencher. The band adjustment for Rev and 1 is inside the transmission the band adjust for 2-3 is on the outside. Unless you or your son have a torque wrench I would stay away from doing the band adjustment at all. The FSM should have the information for the adjustment. A basic set of steps in the Haynes(30065) book. I'd guess the Haynes book has as much info as the Chiltons, and I've never used a FSM.

I do have one comment, you saild you shift to low when approaching a stop sign. That is manually putting it into first, the transmission doesnt need to 'catch up'. Your use of transmission braking is more wear than using the brakes, though it is useful if you are heavily loaded. If you have a LockUp Torque converter, that should disengage itself below about 40 mph

 

HelloI-Gadget. I-Gadget said:I do have one comment, you saild you shift to low when approaching a stop sign.

Keith:That was 97 Intrepid that made that statement.
Yes I have two torque wrenches and since my problem is shifting from 2nd -3rd it may need the external adjustment of which my chiltons has nothing. Could you maybe post the instructions for the adjustments of the bands? Again, when this trans shifts from 2nd-3rd it is just a slight delay in the shift with no slippage so it sounds like it needs the external 2nd-3rd adjustment. Thanks for the help.

Keith

 

Low/Reverse/Rear Band
The oil pan must be removed for access to the adjusting screw.

1. Raise the vehicle.
2. Remove the transmission oil pan.
3. Loosen the low/reverse band adjusting screw locknut 5 to 6 turns. Be sure the adjusting screw turns freely in the lever.
4. Tighten the adjusting screw to 72 in. lbs. (8 Nm).
5. Back off the low/reverse band adjusting screw by the following amounts:
42/44RE: 4 turns
46RE: 2 turns
47RE: 3 turns
6. Hold the adjuster screw in position and tighten the locknut to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).

2nd/3rd/Front Band
The front (kickdown) band adjusting screw is located on the left side of the transmission case above the manual and throttle valve levers. The pan does not have to be off to adjust this one.

1. Raise the vehicle.
2. Loosen the front band adjusting screw locknut, and then back off locknut 5 to 6 turns. Be sure the adjusting screw turns freely in the case. Lubricate the screw threads if necessary.
3. Tighten the front band adjusting screw to 72 in. lbs. (8 Nm).
CAUTION: Torque is critical. If an extension is used on the torque wrench to reach the adjusting screw, adjust the torque to 50 in. lbs. (5 Nm).
4. Back off the front band adjusting screw by the following amounts:
42RE: 3 5/8 turns
44RE: 2 1/4 turns
46RE: 2 7/8 turns
47RE: 1 7/8
5. Hold the front band adjuster screw in position and tighten the locknut to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).

 

Thank you VERY much Alloro for your kind assitance. It is much appreciated!!! My expertise is in auto body/paint so if I may be of assitance feel free to ask.

Keith

 

Alloro,

I had wondered about that if extension is used instruction. An extension should not change the torque required if it is kept properly inline.The amount of torque applied could change either plus or minus depending on the angle it is off by. If you properly support the head of the wrench then the difference should be minior.

Also for those who dont know,

[align=center]12 in / lbs == 1 ft / lb
and
16 in / oz == 1 in / lb
[/align]

 

Alloro,

I had wondered about that if extension is used instruction. An extension should not change the torque required if it is kept properly inline.The amount of torque applied could change either plus or minus depending on the angle it is off by. If you properly support the head of the wrench then the difference should be minior.

Also for those who dont know,

12 in / lbs == 1 ft / lb
and
16 in / oz == 1 in / lb


This was my understanding as well. Thanks for the conversion numbers Igadget as I was wondering about this.

Keith

 

That's correct if done right. I've seen a lot of people just pull on the torque wrench without supporting the head and of course that gives a false torque.