i have a 96 dodge 1500 i was driving home and the truck just died i htoguth it was out of gas so i went up got gas wont start pused it into a parking lot me and my dad brought it home on our trailer tried to start it and i noticed the fuel pump didnt kick on so we jacked it up in the grage to put a fuel pump in it and took wht gas it had in the take out turned the key to see wht the fuel gauge said and the pump kicked on and the truck ran so we put it back togather i drove it for about like 10 20 miles came back home turned it off and it wouldnt start no fuel pump so the next day we went to turn it around and the truck started and ran for about a min and died and after it died the fuel pump kicked on and it would start and run for a min and die again then it wouldnt run at all so we put it in the yard til we knew wht is wrong and went out this morning after iot sat for a week and it started up and ran fine shut it down after 1 min and turned the key again and it wouldnt run does anyone no what is wrong i cant figure it out and there is no check engine light

 

i'm no mechanic but maybe when you have the no start condition you should check the voltage at the fuel pump? maybe it could be an itermittent electrical problem?

 

fuel pump, fuel filter, loose connections in wire harness, bad ignition switch...

 

i have been working on it all day and when there is no fuel pump no spark my dad thought it would be a bad ignition switch to does anyone know what wires power the fuel pump and how to jump the fuel pump to see if the pump is bad i cant find anyone to tell me what wires power the pump io checked the easy stuff like the voltage in the relay switched the relays checked spark follwed the wires to the fuel pump adn still randomly runs i cant figure it out and im not about to give somone a **** load of money to fix it when i can do it myself i just need to know what the hell is wrong

 

run down to the local auto parts staore and grab a haynes manual for the truck..look in the wiring diagrams for the electrical.

when you turn the key to "on/run" , just before "start", do you here the fuel pump?
is there fuel comin out at the engine when you do this?

 

ok i hot wired the fuel pump to see if the pump is bad and the pump came on so it isnt the pump wich tells me it is not the wireing goign to the pump so it has to be in the engine somwere but i dont no were to start since i already checked the fuses and relays

 

ok after workign on it for the rest of the day i have tracked it all the way down to the fuel relay if u jump the relay the pump kicks on and the truck starts i know it isnt the relay becasue i swtiched all of them around so many times and it still doesnt work so know im wonder what powers the relays or what shuts the relay down when u turn the key on to pressureize the system if anyone has any ideas i would love to here it

 

FUEL PUMP RELAY
Circuit A14 from fuse 8 in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) supplies battery voltage to the contact side of the fuel pump relay. Circuit A21 from the ignition switch powers circuit F18 through 9 in the fuse block. Circuit F18 supplies battery voltage to the coil side of the Automatic Shut Down (ASD) and fuel pump relays. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) provides the ground path for the coil side of the fuel pump relay on circuit K31. Circuit K31 connects to cavity C19 of the PCM connector.
When the PCM grounds the fuel pump relay, the contacts CLOSE and connect circuits A14 and A61. Circuit A61 supplies voltage to the fuel pump motor (part of the in-tank fuel pump module)
HELPFUL INFORMATION
Circuit A14 also connects to cavity A22 of the PCM.

I would also check the cam sensor.
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR - 3.9L/5.2L/5.9L ENGINES
The camshaft position sensor is located in the distributor on all engines.
The sensor contains a hall effect device called a sync signal generator to generate a fuel sync signal. This sync signal generator detects a rotating pulse ring (shutter) on the distributor shaft. The pulse ring rotates 180 degrees through the sync signal generator. Its signal is used in conjunction with the crankshaft position sensor to differentiate between fuel injection and spark events. It is also used to synchronize the fuel injectors with their respective cylinders.
When the leading edge of the pulse ring (shutter) enters the sync signal generator, the following occurs: The interruption of magnetic field causes the voltage to switch high resulting in a sync signal of approximately 5 volts.
When the trailing edge of the pulse ring (shutter) leaves the sync signal generator, the following occurs: The change of the magnetic field causes the sync signal voltage to switch low to 0 volts.

CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR - 3.9L/5.2L/5.9L ENGINES
The camshaft position sensor is located in the distributor Camshaft Position Sensor - Typical on all engines
To perform a complete test of this sensor and its circuitry, refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostics Procedures service manual. To test the sensor only, refer to the following:
For this test, an analog (non-digital) voltmeter is needed. Do not remove the distributor connector from the distributor. Using small paper clips, insert them into the backside of the distributor wire harness connector to make contact with the terminals. Be sure that the connector is not damaged when inserting the paper clips. Attach voltmeter leads to these paper clips.
[*]Connect the positive (+) voltmeter lead into the sensor output wire. This is at done the distributor wire harness connector. For wire identification, Refer to Wiring Diagrams.[*]Connect the negative (-) voltmeter lead into the ground wire. For wire identification, Refer to Wiring Diagrams.[*]Set the voltmeter to the 15 Volt DC scale.[*]Remove distributor cap from distributor (two screws) Rotate (crank) the engine until the distributor rotor is pointed towards the rear of vehicle. The movable pulse ring should now be within the sensor pickup.[*]Turn ignition key to ON position. Voltmeter should read approximately 5.0 volts.[*]If voltage is not present, check the voltmeter leads for a good connection.[*]If voltage is still not present, check for voltage at the supply wire. For wire identification, Refer to Wiring Diagrams.[*]If 5 volts is not present at supply wire, check for voltage at PCM 32-way connector (cavity A-17) Refer to Wiring for location of connector/terminal. Leave the PCM connector connected for this test.[*]If voltage is still not present, perform vehicle test using the DRB scan tool.[*]If voltage is present at cavity A-17, but not at the supply wire:
[*]Check continuity between the supply wire. This is checked between the distributor connector and cavity A-17 at the PCM. If continuity is not present, repair the harness as necessary.[*]Check for continuity between the camshaft position sensor output wire and cavity A-18 at the PCM. If continuity is not present, repair the harness as necessary.[*]Check for continuity between the ground circuit wire at the distributor connector and ground. If continuity is not present, repair the harness as necessary. [/ol][*]While observing the voltmeter, crank the engine with ignition switch. The voltmeter needle should fluctuate between 0 and 5 volts while the engine is cranking. This verifies that the camshaft position sensor in the distributor is operating properly and a sync pulse signal is being generated. [/ol]
If sync pulse signal is not present, replacement of the camshaft position sensor is necessary

Sorry for such along post...

 

it isnt the crankshaft sensors or the cam senors i put a new motor in it about 6 months ago and replaced all that stuff new msd wires ngk spark plugs summit cap and rotor and new cam and crank sensor so it has to be somthing else i dont think the two sensors would go bad that quick

 

What parts\service gave you was more than guidance on the replacement of a part but detailed information on the system. You will need it for trouble shooing your malfunction. To me it sounds like the ASD Isn't working.