The way I understand it is that if it takes X voltage to bridge the gap, that's all the more that it'll use. For example if you've got a gap that takes 3 volts to jump, and a 40k volt coil, it'll only create 3 volts worth of spark. That's why the narrower gap tends to make plugs last longer. I could be wrong and it would be nice to have an electrical engineer provide some input.


PS - there is a flash for your ECM known as the death flash. Yes, it will cure the pinging, but you'll notice a fairly good drop in power along with it. Last time I really paid attention to it was in 99 when I bought my Jeep (I was tossing around the idea of getting a new Ram at the time) and Mopar's response to the lack in power was "buy the mopar performance ecm and run 91 octane". Be careful when you get that thing reflashed, you can't go back. That's not to say that Dodge hasn't fixed the flash and it'll be completely safe, but I'd err towards caution on that.

 

well I do'nt know about the voltage difference but I would think a coil would be set to deliver X amount of voltage, the gap at the plug will likely cause a change in current due to voltage drop?
The mechanic at the dealership told me, all things being equal a reflash with the updates will get rid of the pinging and increase power, but I've got to get rid of the other problems first I guess.

Here is a update, yesterday I removed my Autolite platinums, before installing the new plugs I did a compression check and got from 140 to 155 PSI across 8 cylinders, then installed new RC12YC Champions and set the gap at .040.
I started the truck, now normally I would'nt do this but I reved the truck to about 4000 RPM's, reved up and down to see if I would get a missfire code, no code but I noticed it took a hell of a long time to get to 4000 RPM's. From an idle, then matt it, I would say a good count to 3, 3seconds seams like forever!, before it would reach that kind of rev, (I don't know if I could redline it if I tried, of course I did'nt try) This seemed kind of strainge to me, I know under load it's been a dog but wow, this did'nt seem good at all. I went for a drive and almost imeadiately got a code 43 (cylinder missfire) and still wo'nt upshift fron 2-3, I'm stumped on this.

 

How are your cats doing? You could try unbolting your exhaust and see if it revs a bit more easily. I'm not sure if a clogged up cat would cause misfire codes or not, but it seems that they'd definately cause sluggish accelleration. Cats I think are covered for 80k miles, not sure on the # of years, so it might be something to bring up with your tech. And when I say unbolt the exhaust, I mean leave the manifolds on but unhook the pipes. Don't run it much like that though, just a little test.

 

Ya know I thought it might be the cats too, .....slow reving.....lack of power.....maybe back presure causing mis-fire?.....I putt around town more than open it up on the highway.......it seems like a gradual progression, since I never really noticed the power loss!
I'm sure I could have spun the tires and got snappy throttle response on it, say 4 years ago, but today no way!
The only thing that puzzles me is this, it passed a government mandated emmisions test no problem only 6 weeks ago!
Would a vehicle with a plugged converter pass emmisions?[sm=smiley25.gif]

 

beats me. I think most of the WA emissions testing is done via OBD2 diagnostic codes these days - got a code, fail. No codes, pass.

 

Here in Ontario Canada, they put your vehicle on something similar to a dyno and run it up to highway cruising speed under load. They check for PPM of CO and hydrocarbons in the exhaust pipe, make sure there are no codes and check that emmisions components are in place,( ie. cat., egr, air pump etc.)
I will check my cats this weekend, just hope I dont start an exhaust leak.

 

Yeah that's how it's done here for vehicles older than 96 that aren't OBD2 compliant. AWD vehicles without OBD2 don't usually get tested much because they don't have 4-wheel machines usually. I'd pick up some new gaskets, and possibly new nuts and bolts if they haven't been off in a while.

 

Hey guys Ive got a buddy who has a Ram Hemi and when he uses his Cruise at lower speeds he gets like a choking problem. He took it to a trusted mechanic and the guy ran a diagnostic and said it was the EGR. I know its fairly easy to change the EGR yourself but the mechanic told my buddy he would have to re program the cars computer after he installed a new EGR. Is that true?

 

Easy way to check for a plugged or restricted cat is to remove the front O2 sensor. (if you can) and see if it runs better.

97 ram shouldn't have an EGR.

Pinging can be caused by a blown Plenum gasket under the intake.

Death flash was only on later year rams 99-01 I believe.

Premium fuel / high octane fuelburns slower and can cause poor peformance and WORSE fuel economy. it offers no benefit to an engine designed to run on regular fuel unless experiencing a pinging problem or towing heavy loads. Most pinging is caused by carbon buildup in the combustion chamber or a mechanical problem with the engine.


Always check the plug gap before installing new spark plugs. Yes they should be pre gapped at the factory but bouncing around in the box can close the gap, also sometimes the same plug may fit many different engines and may not be gapped properly for your engine. To big a plug gap is hard on the factory coil and dist cap.
Platinum plugs offer no benefit other than they last longer.
Double platinum plugs are only beneficial on a DIS (distributorless or coil pack) ignition system because one plug fires positive to negative and the other fires negative to positive. (eg. 3.3L caravan or intrepid)