Help with buying '01 Cummins Dually 3500
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Joined: Apr 2005
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Help with buying '01 Cummins Dually 3500
Hello,
My girlfriend and I are thinking of getting a 2001 Ram 3500 dually w/ a Cummins 24V coupled to an Auto Trans. 2WD (we wanter a 4wd but this truck seems in very good shape for the price and miles so i will settle for 2wd)
The truck is a quad cab, long box with 40k miles on it..
The dealership where we found it wants $24,995 for it but we hammered out something like $21,000 for it
it is in mint condition, VERY VERY well taken care of, or so it would appear, mint interior, never smoked in and.. shifs smooth as glass..
Im new to the Cummins & Rams and im just wondering for the money if this is about what i should expect to pay for this truck. Ive done some research on this model and i find alot refering to the Weak point being the Automatic trans and the ball joints... other than that the Cummins appears to be the only way to go as it seems to go forever...
this truck will be used to haul cargo and be use alot... 1000mi a week or so...
My questions are...
1. Is the transmission going to be an issue... it seems fine now, should we just keep up on it if we decide to buy?
2. How failure prone are the ball joints.. and what do they cost to replace both in a shop or done at home (im handy)
3. Is this about what i should expect to pay for a 2wd Dually with only 40k.. seems kinda low... im going to assume they were towing miles since there is an aftermarket trailer brake controller..
4. Is there anything that I Should seriously inspect that is notorious on these trucks... if so what is it and how can it effect me bargining the price..
Thanks for your time, James
My girlfriend and I are thinking of getting a 2001 Ram 3500 dually w/ a Cummins 24V coupled to an Auto Trans. 2WD (we wanter a 4wd but this truck seems in very good shape for the price and miles so i will settle for 2wd)
The truck is a quad cab, long box with 40k miles on it..
The dealership where we found it wants $24,995 for it but we hammered out something like $21,000 for it
it is in mint condition, VERY VERY well taken care of, or so it would appear, mint interior, never smoked in and.. shifs smooth as glass..
Im new to the Cummins & Rams and im just wondering for the money if this is about what i should expect to pay for this truck. Ive done some research on this model and i find alot refering to the Weak point being the Automatic trans and the ball joints... other than that the Cummins appears to be the only way to go as it seems to go forever...
this truck will be used to haul cargo and be use alot... 1000mi a week or so...
My questions are...
1. Is the transmission going to be an issue... it seems fine now, should we just keep up on it if we decide to buy?
2. How failure prone are the ball joints.. and what do they cost to replace both in a shop or done at home (im handy)
3. Is this about what i should expect to pay for a 2wd Dually with only 40k.. seems kinda low... im going to assume they were towing miles since there is an aftermarket trailer brake controller..
4. Is there anything that I Should seriously inspect that is notorious on these trucks... if so what is it and how can it effect me bargining the price..
Thanks for your time, James
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 117
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RE: Help with buying '01 Cummins Dually 3500
the 47RE that is behind that engine is good and will live a good life. there are some upgrades that can be done, but if it works good at 40K it will work for a good many more miles.
if you have a press, you can do the ball joints yourself, but it is still hard to do without the right tools. the main problem with them is thet they are non greasable if they had a zerks on them the joints might last a bit longer, you can check them yourself but jacking up the front wheels and useing a crow bar, any abnormal movement and they are shot. DC says .090 movement before replacement, bunch of bull if you ask me
if it's in as good condition as your saying it is then youve got a good one on your hands.
the way I look at my truck is that I bought the engine, the truck just came with it
if you have a press, you can do the ball joints yourself, but it is still hard to do without the right tools. the main problem with them is thet they are non greasable if they had a zerks on them the joints might last a bit longer, you can check them yourself but jacking up the front wheels and useing a crow bar, any abnormal movement and they are shot. DC says .090 movement before replacement, bunch of bull if you ask me
if it's in as good condition as your saying it is then youve got a good one on your hands.
the way I look at my truck is that I bought the engine, the truck just came with it