Ive got that vid on my computer. . .that is an awsomely fast truck. I think he may have a blower on it.

 

yea he prolly does have a blower but where the heck did he get it

 

I've seen a ram 1500 hemi toast a riced eclipse. He was runnin a turbocharger gettin about 11lbs of boost on the top side. The truck was the meanest sounding truck I've ever heard . The turbo was mounted under the bed in line with the exhaust, air cleaner was under there as well. No muffler and a single pipe so the truck looked completely stock. It was a Garret turbo. I'll see if I can find the guy and talk to him. I'll get some more info.

 

What gears are you running? If you want to make rice pudding from 0 - 60, throw on some 4.56s. I am assuming you have 20" wheels with 33" diameter tires. I am waiting on mine, but have a couple of buddies with the 4.56s and they fly . . . . . .

 

what all else do you need to do besides just exchange the gears themselves. all i know about gears is that on my old mustang i would have had to change the whole rear end to go from a 4.10 to a 4.56 . i was just wondering .

 

Hehehe, there is a video of some Hyundai Excel schooling an SRT-10...don't feel bad. Trucks arent about drag racing, they're about putting 6 people in the cab, pulling a boat, going 80 mph and still getting 13 MPG.

 

good god. where to start?

So with a peak torque at 4200 RPM the hemi is a torquer? :lol: My 360's peak torque is at about 2200. The Hemi is more of a car engine IMHO. Yeah, it makes a lot of power for its size, but you have to rev it up to get there. Not very useful when you're trying to crawl over something or yank a huge boat out of the water, but whatever. They're all doing it. Back to the topic - the backpressure myth. You want 0 backpressure. None. Period. What you do want is to size your exhaust properly to keep velocity high at low rpms for better scavenging. I don't really want to get into it here, since I've posted it all before, but you need a small enough pipe to keep the gasses moving fast at low engine speeds yet large enough to flow the max CFM that your engine is capable of putting out at the top end. Too large of a pipe will cause a loss of low-end power. Too small will cause a loss of high end power. I think that long tube headers are the standard for improving power with tuned runner lengths and whatnot, whereas shorties fit more places and eliminate some of the restrictions caused by the oem manifolds.


Yikes. That's an incredible way to generate phenominal turbo lag - when you let off the throttle the pressure in the intake is released to prevent compressor surge (and resulting destroyed turbos) and having six miles of intake pipe to re-compress takes time. Not to mention the fact that a lot of the power generated by turbos comes from thermal expansion of gasses as they exit the cylinder, so putting the turbo several feet from the manifolds would greatly reduce their efficiency.



You want to go faster, ditch the 20's. Larger wheels equal more rotational mass, AND the location of the majority of that mass is farther from its pivot point, requiring an exponential increase in power for similar accelleration.


You need the ring and pinion set, and sometimes you'll need a new carrier as well. Most axles have carriers designed for low ratios and one for higher ratios. I think my dana 60 split is 4.10 and down for one, 4.56 and up for another, so if I wanted to go to 4.56s I'd have to get a new carrier. Then you need to get the install kit and set the lash and whatnot.

 

Push the tow button on your shifting lever .It won't happen again. Full power all the way.

 

You can build that truck just as fast as your wallet will let you!!!

Or--you could just get over it, and realize that the ricer cant go anywhere near the number of places you can go with your truck!!!!

 

That sounds like an STS. http://www.ststurbo.com . Seems like our only option until KB unasses something.