REAR DIFF "JANGLE" 4x4 (98 RAM 5.9) - HELP !
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REAR DIFF "JANGLE" 4x4 (98 RAM 5.9) - HELP !
Hi all, I have a great Ram1500 '98 4x4 - great that is aside from a groaning rear diff (tested by running the truck with bricks under the axle to lift the rear wheels) -- anyone know how much of the diff is "adjustable" or is it likely that bearings/gear cogs are shot?? Oil is present in the diff.
Sadly I CANNOT take this into my local dealer (I wish I could!) as me+the truck are in SPAIN for the next year so it'll be a matter of a "service kit" (if there is such a thing) and finding a good mechanic....
Thanks in advance for any advice/experiences/info - and any way of identifying the axle type (I believe there are several) etc most gratefully received.... and especially any info on any "service kits" that may be available..... (as necessary I'll get a kit from the US or Canada sent over)
Sadly I CANNOT take this into my local dealer (I wish I could!) as me+the truck are in SPAIN for the next year so it'll be a matter of a "service kit" (if there is such a thing) and finding a good mechanic....
Thanks in advance for any advice/experiences/info - and any way of identifying the axle type (I believe there are several) etc most gratefully received.... and especially any info on any "service kits" that may be available..... (as necessary I'll get a kit from the US or Canada sent over)
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RE: REAR DIFF "JANGLE" 4x4 (98 RAM 5.9) - HELP !
First thing that comes to mind from your description of a "groaning" sound, is bearings. Check to see how loose your pinion bearing is. Grab the end of the drive shaft nearest the differential and try shaking it around. If it moves, there's your problem. Otherwise it could be some other bearings. Whenever bearings start to go out you get noise, and rough, scratchy, uneven, not smooth rotational movement.
When did you last change your fluid? If you have a limited slip differential and you didn't have a special friction modifier additive in there, you'll get some chattering. Not groaning, but that could be it. Call a united states Dodge dealer or go on the internet, and search for this.
Part Number: 4796517 - Gear Oil and Part Number: 4318060 - Trac-Lok Additive (4 oz.)
Refer to the Technical Service Bulletin for solving the issue. (TSB 03-01-94 Dated July 8, 1994) You can view the TSB through the link to the web page below.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1995/03-03-95.htm
If that's not it, check your axel shaft bearings.
Put blocks around your front wheels to prevent the truck from rolling foward or back.
Loosen up your lug nuts on your rear wheels.
Jack up the truck.
Secure it on blocks without the parking brake engaged and put the truck in neutral.
On the rear axel remove your lug nuts, your wheels, and your brake drum.
Grab the end of the Axel shaft, and try to move it up and down.
If it moves up and down, bearing wear is excessive, thus the outer bearing should be replaced.
If nothing moves up and down, inspect the inside of your differential for damage and consider getting a second opinion. If nothing is found, you should inspect the side bearings sitting at the ends of the carrier which is the thing in the middle of the differential with the big gear going around it. The bearings are underneath some retaining caps and are easy to remove. If you do it yourself you can save at least a hundred to a couple hundred dollars in labor as opposed to hiring a mechanic. It's very simple, just ask how if you want to do it.
If you need to replace the wheel bearing, you'll need to crack open the differential cover under your truck in order to do this. First put a pan under the cover, and loosen up the bolts. Gently pry open the cover with a screwdriver and allow the fluid to drain into the pan. Now, remove the cover and look at whats in front of you. There is a carrier directly in the center of the differential containing a set of 4 gears with a pinion shaft going through the center from top to bottom. The two gears on the sides are side gears, and the other two are pinion gears. You must rotate the carrier using your hands by spinning the driveshaft between the transmission and axel housing until you have acces to the pinion shaft lock bolt which will be going through the carrier and into the top of the pinion shaft. When you have access, remove the lock bolt and gently tap and slide the pinion shaft out of the carrier. Now, be sure to avoid spinning your wheels to prevent the pinion gears from moving or falling out of place. Now, go to the side of the truck with the bad bearing and push the axel shaft flange with the lug not bolts inwards toward the center of the truck. After doing this, go back under the truck and look inside the differential. You should see the end of the axel shaft with a C style clip around the end of it. Remove the C clip and now that side axel can be removed. Gently, to prevent damaging anything, pull the axel shaft out of the axel housing. Get a seal removal tool as well as a slide hammer and remove the seal at the outer end of the axel housing. Now, using the slide hammer, remove the outer wheel bearing. Next, get some wheel bearing greese, a new bearing, and a new seal. Greese the bearing very thoroughly and work the greese into all the crevices. Make sure that when the rollers in the bearing roll, there is greese in between every roller all the way through the bearing housing with no empty areas. The more the merrier. Now clean the end of the axel shaft and use a large socket, a pipe, or a bearing installer to install the bearing. Just line up what you have with the bearing race which is the housing for the actual bearing rollers and gently and evenly pound the bearing into place. Make sure you go all the way to the bearing seat which is a part of the axel housing which blocks the bearing from being pushed into the axel any further. Using a block of wood or something similar to what's used for the bearing, install the axel seal by gently and evenly pounding the seal into position until it is flush with the end of the axel housing. reinstall the axel shaft, without turning it to prevent the pinion gears from moving and falling out of place, reinstall the C clip, the pinion shaft, and then the pinion shaft lock bolt. Clean the differential cover where it's bolted to the differential with a razor as well as the mating surface on the differential from any old gasket material. Wipe clean the entire area inside of the differential with a rag and inspect for chipped gear teeth, etcetera... If anything serious is found other then dark sparkly oil in the bottom of the differential, a professional inspection might be warranted. If not, apply RTV sealent to the differential cover where the old gasket material was scraped away from and that's it.
Phew, try saying that three times fast...
Note; If you have to do one bearing, it's also a good idea to do the other at the same time. This way you won't have to do this again soon if there is anything worn out on the other side.
When did you last change your fluid? If you have a limited slip differential and you didn't have a special friction modifier additive in there, you'll get some chattering. Not groaning, but that could be it. Call a united states Dodge dealer or go on the internet, and search for this.
Part Number: 4796517 - Gear Oil and Part Number: 4318060 - Trac-Lok Additive (4 oz.)
Refer to the Technical Service Bulletin for solving the issue. (TSB 03-01-94 Dated July 8, 1994) You can view the TSB through the link to the web page below.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1995/03-03-95.htm
If that's not it, check your axel shaft bearings.
Put blocks around your front wheels to prevent the truck from rolling foward or back.
Loosen up your lug nuts on your rear wheels.
Jack up the truck.
Secure it on blocks without the parking brake engaged and put the truck in neutral.
On the rear axel remove your lug nuts, your wheels, and your brake drum.
Grab the end of the Axel shaft, and try to move it up and down.
If it moves up and down, bearing wear is excessive, thus the outer bearing should be replaced.
If nothing moves up and down, inspect the inside of your differential for damage and consider getting a second opinion. If nothing is found, you should inspect the side bearings sitting at the ends of the carrier which is the thing in the middle of the differential with the big gear going around it. The bearings are underneath some retaining caps and are easy to remove. If you do it yourself you can save at least a hundred to a couple hundred dollars in labor as opposed to hiring a mechanic. It's very simple, just ask how if you want to do it.
If you need to replace the wheel bearing, you'll need to crack open the differential cover under your truck in order to do this. First put a pan under the cover, and loosen up the bolts. Gently pry open the cover with a screwdriver and allow the fluid to drain into the pan. Now, remove the cover and look at whats in front of you. There is a carrier directly in the center of the differential containing a set of 4 gears with a pinion shaft going through the center from top to bottom. The two gears on the sides are side gears, and the other two are pinion gears. You must rotate the carrier using your hands by spinning the driveshaft between the transmission and axel housing until you have acces to the pinion shaft lock bolt which will be going through the carrier and into the top of the pinion shaft. When you have access, remove the lock bolt and gently tap and slide the pinion shaft out of the carrier. Now, be sure to avoid spinning your wheels to prevent the pinion gears from moving or falling out of place. Now, go to the side of the truck with the bad bearing and push the axel shaft flange with the lug not bolts inwards toward the center of the truck. After doing this, go back under the truck and look inside the differential. You should see the end of the axel shaft with a C style clip around the end of it. Remove the C clip and now that side axel can be removed. Gently, to prevent damaging anything, pull the axel shaft out of the axel housing. Get a seal removal tool as well as a slide hammer and remove the seal at the outer end of the axel housing. Now, using the slide hammer, remove the outer wheel bearing. Next, get some wheel bearing greese, a new bearing, and a new seal. Greese the bearing very thoroughly and work the greese into all the crevices. Make sure that when the rollers in the bearing roll, there is greese in between every roller all the way through the bearing housing with no empty areas. The more the merrier. Now clean the end of the axel shaft and use a large socket, a pipe, or a bearing installer to install the bearing. Just line up what you have with the bearing race which is the housing for the actual bearing rollers and gently and evenly pound the bearing into place. Make sure you go all the way to the bearing seat which is a part of the axel housing which blocks the bearing from being pushed into the axel any further. Using a block of wood or something similar to what's used for the bearing, install the axel seal by gently and evenly pounding the seal into position until it is flush with the end of the axel housing. reinstall the axel shaft, without turning it to prevent the pinion gears from moving and falling out of place, reinstall the C clip, the pinion shaft, and then the pinion shaft lock bolt. Clean the differential cover where it's bolted to the differential with a razor as well as the mating surface on the differential from any old gasket material. Wipe clean the entire area inside of the differential with a rag and inspect for chipped gear teeth, etcetera... If anything serious is found other then dark sparkly oil in the bottom of the differential, a professional inspection might be warranted. If not, apply RTV sealent to the differential cover where the old gasket material was scraped away from and that's it.
Phew, try saying that three times fast...
Note; If you have to do one bearing, it's also a good idea to do the other at the same time. This way you won't have to do this again soon if there is anything worn out on the other side.
