I have a 91 Base with 5 speed.

I have had no luck searching for a guide on adjusting the clutch and bleeding the slave cylinder. If you guys could point me in the right direction it would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Jesse

 

I don't know if the Transmission is different for the SOHC engines. I have used my subscription to Alldatadiy.com several times including rebuilding and bleeding the clutch slave cylinder. I have a subscription for all three of my cars and my in-laws Ford Tarus that I seem to be working on often.

 

http://www.stealth316.com/2-clutchbleeding.htm

 

Thanks for the replies. Is there any way to adjust the firmness of the clutch pedal itself? I have alot of play in the pedal, and would like to get it to be a little stiffer.

 

Clutch Pedal Freeplay
On AWD vehicles, depress clutch pedal two to three times with the engine off to eliminate booster negative pressure before testing pedal freeplay.
To determine if the pedal freeplay is not within specification, depress clutch pedal by hand until clutch resistance is felt. Measure the distance between upper pedal height and where resistance is felt. Freeplay should be 0.24-0.51 inches. After pedal freeplay has been checked, measure the distance between the clutch pedal and the floorpan when the clutch disengages. On AWD vehicles, measure distance with engine running. Clearance should be 2.2 inches or greater.
If the pedal freeplay and/or clutch disengagement clearance is not within specification, bleed the clutch hydraulic system.

 

this was provided to me by :
http://www.teamrip.com/TRE%20FWD%20T...0SERVICES.html





CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURES FOR THE 89-99 DSM AND THE 03-06 EVOLUTION.
The clutch pedal should be 3" off the floor when the clutch starts to engage & move the car.
1. Bleed the hydraulic system for the clutch. Compress the slave cylinder to evacuate the air from it. Flush enough fluid through so that what comes out is clean. While you're at it inspect both master and slave cylinders for leaks. Rarely do they fail but over time they'll leak a little.

2. Adjust the clutch. Now you might ask why this is necessary because you shouldn't have to do this with a hydraulic clutch but what you still need to adjust is the clutch pedal. Most know where and how to do this but here are some tricks. Raise the cruise cut switch. This will raise the clutch pedal slightly which will allow the master cylinder to manipulate the clutch better. Loosen the jamb nut and back out the cruise cut switch as far as possible yet still allowing the pedal to close the switch. Now adjust the actuator rod, removing all but a titch of free play between the rod and master cylinder so the hydraulic system can still balance the fluid between master and slave. Check and adjust the cruise cut switch again if necessary.

3. Inspect the clutch pedal assembly. The 1st gen DSMs have a pedal assembly that over time will wear out. There are bushings that wear out but most often the nut, that holds the end bracket to the shaft, backs off the bracket gets slotted out. The end result is reduced clutch stroke which can cause the clutch disc to drag. If you grab the clutch pedal with your hand and lift upward and the pedal raises up, you will need to remove the clutch linkage and repair it. A worn pedal assembly is very common so don't just think that yours is fine, CHECK IT.

4. Move your seat forward enough so that you can easily hit the clutch pedal to the floor. Sitting way back may look cool and might help you sleep but it is dangerous way to drive. Ask any professional driver on the planet and he'll tell you that proper seating in paramount for control of the vehicle. Have fun but please be safe.
Hopefully steps 1-4 should have the clutch engagement threshold, when the car just starts to creep forward, about 1/2 way off the floor. Basically you want the clutch engagement thresholds as high as possible. This will allow the disc to fully release the should cure a majority of the shifting complaints. If not proceed with steps 5&6.

5. Flywheel step height is probably the most important thing when it comes to the clutch working properly on 89-99 DSM and it's most often overlooked. If you install a new clutch always machine the flywheel to the clutch manufacturer's specifications. DO NOT ASSUME THAT JUST BECAUSE YOU BOUGHT A FLYWHEEL FROM A REPUTABLE SHOP THAT THE STEP HEIGHT IS CORRECT FOR THE CLUTCH YOU ARE USING. This varies with each clutch but most DSM mechanics agree that .608-.610" is the preferred step height when using most aftermarket pressure plates and discs. By machining the step height shallow it puts the spring plate fingers more on center. This in turn gives a more effective release and less pressure required to disengage the clutch. When you pick the flywheel up, have them measure the step height so you can be certain that they cut it to your spec and not what the "book" says.




6.Also do NOT use any thing other than a ACT clutch disc with an ACT pressure plate. ACT uses a HD marcel, the wavy metal that the friction material is riveted to, and it's designed to work with their pressure plates. Using a factory 2nd gen disc will cause the clutch to drag against the flywheel and prematurely wear out the synchros in your transmission when used with an ACT pressure plate. This is important and not exclusive to ACT so please consult with the manufacturer of your clutch when choosing to run a different clutch disc than the one supplied or designed for use with their pressure plate. TRE recommends the use of ACT clutches. ACT makes excellent clutches.
Do not reuse any flywheel if it has deep cracks on the surface. Have the machine shop inspect the flywheel with a Zyglo, Magnaflux or dye & powder for cracks after it has been machined. Flywheel explosions can injure passengers and destroy the car so don't abuse the clutch or use cracked flywheels. Do not use a factory clutch disc with an aftermarket pressure plate. Most aftermarket clutch manufacturers have different disc thickness specifications and the use of a factory disc with their pressure plate will cause the clutch to drag or have a poor engagement threshold. If you have questions about the clutch it is best to contact the people you bought it from or the manufacturer.
Use a steel flywheel if you are launching the car, you will have less problems with your clutch and the transmission will shift better.

7. Shim the clutch pivot ball with a 1.0-1.5mm washer. By by keeping the angles at 90* you get the most effective stroke of the throw-out bearing for any given amount of pedal movement.

8. Inspect your friction surfaces to make sure that they are FLAT. Often times the clutch that has been overheated will warp. This warping will reduce the true release of the clutch and it will be worse as the clutch gets warmed up and the engagement point seems to get closer to floor or move around from how it reacted when the car was cold.
The easiest way to check the clutch is to get all four tires in the air by placing the car on a hoist.
Start the engine and put the car into 1st gear.
Slowly let the clutch out until the wheels start to turn round and round.
Now slowly push the clutch in until the wheel stop turning. Hold the clutch at this position.
At this point you should the clutch pedal should be at least 2-3 inches off the carpet. If not then the clutch needs adjustment.
The reason why the clutch should be this far off the floor at the engagement point is to allow enough room for movement of the clutch disc so it finds a nice center position between the flywheel and pressure plate.
I know this sound like a PITA way to check the clutch but this is the preferred method and the true reality check for where the clutch releases.