I checked the other site on how to change the front and rear struts. It looks fairly simple. So far the only company that I can find that makes them is KYB. I DON"T want the shocks that you can adjust from the inside. For you that have changed them is it a fairly simple job? Also does the Stealth have the strut bearings and if they do is it a good idea to change them also?

 

You don't like the active suspension, hmm. OK. I am pretty sure KYB is the only company that makes aftermarket struts for the FWD models, unless you wanted to upgrade to a coil over set-up. They change out the same as any other strut, you'll need a spring compressor to make the job easier. Not sure about a strut bearing..??

 

Want my opinion on the active suspension? I like to keep it simple. It's great....until it breaks. Then you pay a small fortune to fix it. I also don't like tv screen that is used for the heater and a/c controls. In my opinion a pricey gimmick. Another problem? The power antenna. Can it break? Of course it can and mine has. My solution? Get rid of it and put a regular antenna back in. I have replaced so many parts in the engine and it STILL has a miss. This is why I have decided to try and fix the miss(have no idea what to replace next)and if I get it fixed,I think I will sell it. Frustrated about this car? Yes I am. Something simple as a "miss" should not be that hard to troubleshoot. I replaced all the fuel injectors with some used ones off another engine thinking that surely "both" set of injectors can't be bad. But of course the end result was the car run's worse than before. Now i'm considering sending the injectors in and having them tested and cleaned. Will that fix the problem? Probably not. I think the only thing left to do is replace the engine. Just kidding there,but it's almost true. Bottom line is it's a 1992 car. For me it's not worth the headache and the money to fix it. Gee maybe the miss is a weak feul pump? Well let's throw more money at it and hope that fixes it. There is a problem with the engine and the Check Engine Light "should" come on and at least point me in SOME direction to fixing the problem. Hate to say it i've driven a couple of 5-speed Neons that doesn't have all the expensive toys and it's a fun car to drive. To sum it up? The Stealth is like a computer,when it works it's great,but the truth is it rarely works the way it's supposed to. I have had 3 people interested in the Stealth. Unless I get this "miss" fixed,it will be sold. Nice car but it's time to move on.

 

No offense, but maybe you should have done some more in depth research before you got the car. They are getting older, and they were touted as Mitsubishi's technical marvel. Yes, they do have about 5 on board brains that can fail over time. Yes, they do have power windows, locks, antennae that will wear out (as do nearly all new cars today). They do have some gimmicky features, such as the climate control (which I like very much), as do many new cars today. Parts for them are not cheap, as many are dealer only. All these things you could have found out with some research. I researched and looked for about 6 months prior to purchasing my RT back in late 99-00 to find the right car for me.

Just for the record, I have 2 Stealths. One TT and one RT. Both have over 150,000 miles on them and they have worked "the way they are supposed to." Sure, I've had to replace some wear and tear items, but that goes without saying on a car this old. It was expected.

As for the Neons, they are fine little cars I guess. Just like the other 500,000 (?) of them running around. I'll take my old, gimmicky somewhat rare Stealth over a Neon any day.



Sounds like we need to start your troubleshooting over from square one. You have many different threads on the subject so it is hard to remember what has been done.

Does it miss in all RPM ranges?

 

I understand your post and you are 100% right. My son bought the car and it reached a point where the insurance was getting so high that he had to do something. So I told him I would buy him a car but I get the Stealth. I figured the miss(in all RPM ranges)would be a fairly simple fix since nothing had been changed on the car. I replaced the fuel filter,02 sensor,plugs,plug wires and from the other engine I swapped the coil pack,fuel rail,fuel regulator,fuel injectors,coolant temp sensor. I get codes with a analog voltmeter but they don't even make sense. Please excuse my previous post,I'm just very frustrated at this point. I'm thinking of sending my injectors in and having them cleaned,but other people say to run a couple cans injector cleaner and you will get the same results. This is why it's best for a car to just quit running so you know what needs to be fixed. I've read it could be a "weak" fuel pump. In all of my years of driving cars I have never had a weak fuel pump. It either pumps or it doesn't. At least with the anttenna you know what to fix. What i'm checking today is some electrical part located by the coolant sensor's. On the other site it shows you how to troubleshoot it. By the way,why should the ECS have anything to do with the engine miss? OK,I'm calmed down now. By the way,TheStealth,I look forward to your replys. With your help,I'll get through this. As usual,THANKS for your help!

 

No problem man, we've all been there. I have heard on other sites and from an ECU repair shop that the ECS unit can affect the ECU. It is easy enough to unhook to check.
Have you pulled the ECU out of the car?? There are poorly manufactured capacitors in them that will (not can) start leaking. When they do, they can wreak havoc in many different ways. The ECU is under the dash behind the radio. You'll have to remove the sides of the console and 3, 10mm (head size) bolts. Unhook the wire loom (unhook the battery first) and remove the 4 screws. Inspect very carefully around the capacitors for any signs of leakage. On my RT, the leakage appeared to be black and was not real noticable, but was there. It had actually leaked onto another PCB that is attached to the main board and caused it to fail.

 

I will do that tomorrow. Did you buy a rebuilt one or did you fix it? My wife use to work for Rockwell so she knows all about this type of stuff. She worked on military aircraft computer boards. She told me if I get the parts she could do the work. What's your suggestion if it's bad? Get a used one,fix it or buy a rebuilt unit? Thanks!

 

That is a bit of a story in itself... Three days after I bought my TT, I lost spark on two cylinders, after about a week of troubleshooting I narrowed it down to the ECU. I called around, found out OReilly had them for about $225 (after the core charge), I ordered one installed it, didn't work. Took it back, had one shipped from an Iowa store, installed, been working great. I knew my RT (green car) had ECU issues (difficulty idling, hard to start), I had already replaced some of the common items. I ordered one from OReilly, it didn't work. Considering 2/3 were faulty, I decided to ship mine off. I found a company online (ECMtogo.com) that rebuilds them. Upon speaking with their PR guy, he recommended rebuilding the 3 main control boards (ECU,TCU,ECS). They did give $100 discount for sending in all three at once. What I liked about them, is the fact that they own a 3000gt, so when they are done rebuilding the units, they can install them in the car to make sure they work properly. I got my units back in about a week and a half, they had to replace another board on the ECU that had been damaged by a leaky capacitor or it would have been a quicker turnaround.
I have also heard good things about avproecm.com

I happen to have the 3 faulty capacitors if you want them. I had ordered them, but lost my nerve to install them. I was afraid of screwing up the PCB. I'll ship them to you for $10. PM me if you want to make a deal.