alright does anyone know how to test if your ecu is bad??? or do you just replace it and hope that that was the problem

 

Have you tested the ECM inputs yet? (Sensors, solenoids...) What symptoms are you trying to diagnose?

 

Try Foreign Auto Computers in Fl, 877-894-4219. I hve used them twice with excelant results. If you send them you emc they will fix it for 195.00 and overnight it back to you. If their is nothing wrong with it they will just send it back (not overnight).

Jim

 

My ecu /ecm took a turn for the worse a few days ago. First I had the engine studdering problem and I thought it was because of the oil the engine burns fouling the plugs. Then it went to a stalling and bad miss problem that will sometimes go away when you are really on it hard and around 70-100 mph or faster. Thank God for Amsoil and Lucas. Anyway I did at one point smell this nasty fish smell and they were right it seems to be the ECU. I got ahold of Josh at www.3SXperformance.com or by phone 704-786-6400 they are shipping me a set of capasitors and I will replace the old ones and go from that point hopefully foward the cost is about $20.00 compaired to $200.---$400.00 for a rebuild which is about the same. Iam sure they may bench test them but then If you plug it in and it works GOOD TEST. I have my very own soldering Iron and I know what a heat sink is used for. If you are not aware of heat sinks Radio shack sells them cheep little aluminum clip flat so you can get under a component with and clip it on the wire to take the heat away from the capasitor or what ever your are soldering. I will let people know if this is an easy fix or not. I have quite a bit of experience doing this sort of thing on boats so it may be a piece of cake for me. I think if you take your time and use a good gun it will be a snap. Heat is what kills the capasitors to start with so I think the heat sink is very inportant and only about three or four bucks ea.

 

Ok Got the three components from 3sxperformance and bought the following tools. Solder iron $8.50 Solder sucker must have $7.50 silver solder $4.50 $copper desolder strip a must have item. three hours and a clean solder job (two tries to get good connections. The car runs much better. HOWEVER I found a little problem that has not caused any major problem. My car 1992 ES the Blue Streak ECU was dated 00 so someone had replaced it I guess. The unit had four capasitors and not the three they show in diagrams. I removed the three I had clear pictures of and left that one alone it was a 47uf and one of the other ones was 47uf also. I also found the one that was supose to be a 100 was a 220 but the 100 I used seams to be working fine the car idles very smooth and has good response. Time will tell the unit like I said had been rebuilt once already and it was a crappy job so the board is almost shot next time it will need a new board. You have to solder both sides of the board and cleaning the surface is very inportant for good contact. Use a good light and a magnafing glass if you can get one. Some electrical spray cleaner is good to but not to much as the painted circuit of the board will wash off with to much cleaner.

 

Cool, glad it worked for you. I was gonna do the same thing, went and bought all the stuff to do it, but I lost my nerve when it came right down to it.