I have an '94 RT NA. I had some rattling noises coming from inside the timing belt cover. So far, I have only taken the top TB covers off, found the belt was very slack around the waterpump pulley. I was also having interior heat problems days before, but the heat came back after a little coolant topoff. Also, coolant light has stayed on for several days, even though it is topped up. Now I know why I had heat trouble. Is there any point in the timing belt cycle where the belt could become slack like this?

I am pretty sure the TB tensioner broke and is causing the slack ( I will be waiting at least a week for parts now). But there seems to be good tension on the belt going in and out from the cam gears, just slack at the water pump, which easily moves 1 inch deflection. I can't understand the slack at the waterpump pulley. THe belt is so slack, I can easily spin the waterpump pulley with my finger. I tried to wiggle the pulley incase the bearing totally went, but seems ok.

I hope I didn't jump any teeth, but I can't figure out why I have slack at the waterpump. I must have jumped some teeth, but the car was running very well right up to the point where I am trouble-shooting it now. THe only engine problems I had was intermittent slight bog on low speed take offs from stop lights at times, and the latest rattling above. I thought the engine would explode if the belt jumped, I guess it has a little room. Approx how many teeth need to jump before explosion?

I read I can easily break loose the crank pulley by using a breaker bar on the pulley bolt, resting the bar on a frame member, and giving the engine a quick crank. From my research so far, this seems alot easier than using the Mitz tool. Any problems you foresee doing this?

I don't have a good history on this 100k mile car, but the timing belt looks mint. I really believe the belt was changed before I got it, and maybe replaced with a cheap tensioner, or even no tensioner to explain my situation. I may just go with the tensioner, new idlers, and waterpump. A belt costs almost $300 here in Canada.

So I guess I am forced into doing the TB maintenance job. Anybody have dimensions on the special TB tensioner adjustment tool?

I will post updates as I do this job, I don't have much spare time, but luckily I have a spare Jeep to get me to work for now. I predict It may take as long as 6 wks for me to do the job, little by little. Thanks for reading this.

 

So, I have managed to turn the crank pulley, to line up timing marks, and I now know I did not jump any teeth.

But, now the timing belt is tight around the water pump, tight everywhere I can get to with just the top covers off.

So, is this normal, the timing belt going slack at certain degrees of engine rotation??? Remember my belt was loose around the water pump pulley at approx 45 deg before TDC.

Also, it is hard to see before I go deeper, but I found drops of antifreeze on ONE groove of the belt, so far. I am starting to think my water pump is bad. Could my WP bearing be wobbling causing the slack, and a leak?

Does anybody have a scan of the motormount removal procedure, and the power steering tensioner (just one bolt???) ?

Thanks

 

No thats not right you had better check to see if one of the pullies is coming apart or has wharped or the tentioner is shot. This sounds like the main crank pulley may have started to come apart but I am not sure. I would check every piece very close much cheeper than $1300 valve job.

 

Post job report:

Job done and well worth it. Car is super smooth now and has much more oomphh.

I found that there is a point in the timing belt cycle that the belt does get slightly slack. This condition still came up after the job was done, and verified on another forum.

The method of breaking loose the crank pulley with a breaker bar, and then hitting the key for a second worked like a charm, and no damage.

I also found that my water pump was on its last leg. The bearing was shot. I would recommend a dealer pump. I had both an aftermarket and a dealer pump. WHat a difference in the quality of the dealer pump. Was worth double the money.

I also found that I had jumped one tooth at the crank explaining why the car ran sub-par for so long. Now I feel like I have a new car again. Thanks for all the help.

P.S. I had all the necessary tools custom made, and would consider selling them. Shallow socket-on-bar for pulleys with excellent leverage, tensioner tool better than any I have seen, and a heavy duty crank pulley bar. PM me if interested.