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I had the same problem REPLACE THE BLOWER ITSELF. WHAT HAPPENS IS THAT THE BLOWER'S BEARINGS ARE WORN OUT AND THEREFORE CAUSING THE MOTOR TO DRAG AND INTERN CAUSE FRICTION AND PULL TO MUCH AND BURN OUT THE RESISTOR. TAKE MY ADVISE REPLACE THE MOTOR PEACE

 

had this happen on my 97 stratus - the first two positions of the blower didn't work. Pulled the resistor module out (under the glove box) and found two resistor coils had separated. I rejoined them with aluminum crimp connectors (I'm too cheap to actually buy a new module!) and they've been working fine for several months now. I agree that the blower motor may be drawing too much current and if it is blowing out your resistors regularly, the motor is most likely dragging thus drawing more current. They are pretty hefty coils so the current must be way up if that's what is happening

 

YES... REPLACE THE BLOWER MOTOR ITSELF ----------BEFORE---------- REPLACING THE RESISTOR.. THE BLOWER MOTOR IS IN A SENSE (SIEZED) BUT NOT REALLY... IT DRAWS TOO MUCH CURRENT.. AND AS A SAFETY THIS RESISTER ACTS LIKE AN EXPENSIVE FUSE... REPLACE THE MOTOR.. THEN THE RESISTER.. AND IT SHOULD BE FIXED... SAME SITUATION WITH MY 96 STRATUS.. FACT IS.. IT APPLIES TO ALMOST ANY CAR WITH THAT PARTICULAR KIND OF CIRCUITRY.. MY MOMS 99 FORD CONTOUR IS THE SAME EXACT SITUATION.. THESE RESISTERS ARE WEAK.. AND WILL BLOW ON ANYTHING... RESISTER IS LOCATED ON PASSENGER SIDE.. INSIDE THE CAR.. UNDER THE DASH. THERES A BIG PANEL.. FROM THE PASSENGER DOOR TO THE CONSOLE. .. IT FITS TIGHT.. BUT IT COMES OUT... YOU WILL SEE THE BLOWER MOTOR ON THE RIGHT SIDE.. JUST TO THE LEFT.. THE WIRES COME OUT.. THICKER GUAGE FROM BLOWER MOTOR TO THE RESISTOR.. AND THINNER GUAGE (5 WIRES I BELIEVE) FROM THE REISISTOR TO THE SWITCH

 

good lord.. i just realized how absolutely stupid.. and ignorant that looks all in caps.. sorry all

 

My 2003 Stratus just ate its blower resistor. Changing it out was easy, except that the replacement part is thicker than the original. With a Dremel tool or a small keyhole saw, one has to carve out the plastic shelf in the connector. The new one works like a champ, and I hope it is significantly more reliable than the original, which burned out exactly 1 month after my bumper-to-bumper warranty expired.

 

I just read the relevant TSB (duh!), which outlines exactly the work my son and I just did. The flat metal resistor units were evidently defective. The advice about checking the blower motor itself is generally sound and consistent with my own general work practices, but in this particular case, the resistor itself seems to be the culprit.

 

It's almost comical. My 2003 Stratus provided 100% trouble-free service for 3 years and just under 30k miles, while the bumper-to-bumper warranty was in effect. Within the ensuing few weeks, first the battery died, then the blower motor resistor. Given that the new resistor differs radically from the original and is the subject of a TSB, I wonder whether Daimler-Chrysler has a hidden extended warranty on the part. Fortunately, it's not a big deal -- a sub-$40 part and less than an hour of my tme.

 

2003 Dodge Stratus - just changed out my resistor module ($45 Autozone), and had to use rat-tail file to enlarge the hole enough to get the 'fatter' replacement module installed. We'll see how long it lasts.

 

The coil in the blower motor burns out which causes the motor to draw too much current through the resistor. When the heat is on high, it simply bypasses the resistor. This is why the motor will still work but only on high.