I replaced coolant in '01 Stratus SE with 3.0L engine. Original was green color and replaced with Prestone Premium Coolant.Had to add about 1 pt a few days later and now notice level in overflow tank is down about 3/8 inch.

There was no air bleed valve on this engine as confirmed with Dodge service. Also, confirmed replacement Prestone would be OK. Drainedold coolant and refilled and drained several times until almost clear before adding new. Do not see any signs of leaks. Temp gauge has always been normal since change.

Could there still be air in system which is still being replaced with coolant or is it going somewhere else? Checked oil level and no change and no sign of coolant in oil.Thinking of taking to dealer for check.

 

I just want to double check, but when you finally filled the system, you did let the car warm up and let the thermostat open up and then finish filling it up correct? If not, that is more than likely your cause. If you did that, check where your top radiator hose goes into the engine. I am going to bet that you have a build up of burnt coolent. It is a pretty common leak point for these cars. Most people just live with it and keep an eye on your coolent levels. I normally have to add just a little after every couple oil changes. The only people that I know that have claimed to fix the problem was a replacement of the of the part (I have no idea what it is called) where the hose attaches to the engine. Your thermostat should be in there.

 

Thanks, BloodRed. I felt mosture on the end of the upper radiator hose on the bottom side where it goes into the thermostat housing. Using a mirror and flashlight, I can see a light green, powder at that joint which is what you described as burnt coolant? Also, see some light greenpowder on a small hose just below this point. The upper hose does have those cheap spring-type factory hose clamps.

Thinking I will drain some coolant out and replace that clamp with a worm-gear type that can be tightened. Wouldn't it also help to put some high-temp silicone sealant on the hose where it seals to the housing inlet? My theory is that this was probably leaking some before changing the coolant. The old coolant was 7 years old (only 24,000 mi on car) and probably did not leak as much as the new stuff which is thinner. Once I had a radiator flush and coolant change on another car and then the heater core started leaking.

I did let the engine warm up after putting new coolant in. It sat overnight and the level was ok when cold the next morning. Then it was a week before checking it again and I noticed the lower level. Added the small amount, but in a couple of days was down probably another 2-3 oz when cold. A mystery is that when hot it seems to go back to the same level to a mark I made on the bottle even though slightly low when cold?

After changing the hose clamp, may still take it to the dealer for system pressure check to be sure since the car is making a long road trip in a few days. Would appreciate your thoughts on whether this is the right approach.

 

just had the coolant sys flushed on my '02 2.7 se. i started with the upper and lower rad hoses, had no spec tools. SOOOO.... 5 hrs and many foul words later, i told the wife unless it's a bad bulb, i'm taking it to the shop (i did replace the hoses). my eng did have the bleed valve, but it stripped out when i went to loosen it, $150 dealer only part, and you have to remove the intake to get to it. had the shop replace the t-stat, the broke bleed valve assy, and the drive belts. 3.6hrs labor (thought it was a rip until i found out the t-stat is on the water pump, blocked by the oil dipstick tube, behinde the exhaust header, and hidden by the cat converter; no matter if you have the car on a lift you still can not see it).

long story short, if your flushing the coolant sys, replace the big hoses and t-stat too. on my car i HAD to use reuse the one piece hose clamp on the lower rad hose going into the water pump because of space issues (what space?), you should be able to use the "normal" type hose clamps in all other spots. happy motoring.

 

Yep that sounds like your problem. Changing the clamp won't help because normally the hose is not leaking but the actual thermostat housing.

 

That housing is a casting. Do you know if the coolant is seeping through the housing or is it rough where the hose fits causing the leak?

I talked to Dodge service this morning and told them about the burnt coolant which actually shows up on the end of the hose and that I am going to put a gear clamp on and maybe use some silicone sealant in the hose ID. He said I don't want to use any sealant but to clean off the coolant buildup on the housing with a putty knife and reinstall the hose. I am taking it in for leak check Monday so he may tell me then I really need the housing for a lot of $.

My concern is the car will be driven on a 1700 mi trip next weekend and don't want to have to worry about this.

 

BloodRed, looks like you are right. removed hose and found a lot of burnt coolant buildup on housing neck. Scraped off, installed gear type clamp. Still seeps coolant. Did notice some small pits on the neck.

With all that buildup now removed, looks like the old hose wouldn't have a chance to seal and putting a smooth hose clamp over the depressions left by the spring clamp may make it harder to seal.

May be wasting time, but plan to install a new hose. Questions: Should the spring type clamps be used instead of gear type? They do keep a constant tension on the hose. Also, there would beenough space to install 2 narrow band clamps behind the bead on the neck. With the small pits in the neck, wouldn't it help to use a sealant, like RTV blue between the hose and the neck?

Do you know how much the dealer charges to replace the T-stat housing?