camshaft position sensor or distributor?
Hi all - I've got a 2000 Stratus 2.5L V6 - no spark, but shooting fuel. Changed cap and rotor. The rotor does spin when cranked.
Crank position sensor test done looking for voltage high and low on revolutions - difficult...but I see it's working.
1. Is the cam position sensor located in the distributor?
2. Can it be accessed and tested without removing the distributor?
3. How?
4. What pin on which connector on the distributor should I check for voltage getting from the relay to the distributor?
5. NO CODES when testing with key - on-off-on-off-on sequence. Is this the correct way to light the check engine codes at the dash?
I'm guessing ona bad cam position sensor or bad distributor assembly / internal components. Hoping for whichever is less expensive, of course.
Background - car was runningquite a bit off - noticeably at idle and lacking power under even the lightest acceleration. Plug wire caps(where they slip through and over valve cover) areknown to be wrecked due to bad plug tube oil seals. Pressed down on wires for exposed cylinders 2,4,6. Cyl4 wire snapped down the idle smoothed out - then it cranked itself up around 1800 RPM with no one touching the pedal. After about 30 seconds of that I tapped the gas pedal and the car stalled. Appear to get no spark ever since...but I do appear to be getting fuel to cylinders.
Thanks in advance for any help on this-
Crank position sensor test done looking for voltage high and low on revolutions - difficult...but I see it's working.
1. Is the cam position sensor located in the distributor?
2. Can it be accessed and tested without removing the distributor?
3. How?
4. What pin on which connector on the distributor should I check for voltage getting from the relay to the distributor?
5. NO CODES when testing with key - on-off-on-off-on sequence. Is this the correct way to light the check engine codes at the dash?
I'm guessing ona bad cam position sensor or bad distributor assembly / internal components. Hoping for whichever is less expensive, of course.
Background - car was runningquite a bit off - noticeably at idle and lacking power under even the lightest acceleration. Plug wire caps(where they slip through and over valve cover) areknown to be wrecked due to bad plug tube oil seals. Pressed down on wires for exposed cylinders 2,4,6. Cyl4 wire snapped down the idle smoothed out - then it cranked itself up around 1800 RPM with no one touching the pedal. After about 30 seconds of that I tapped the gas pedal and the car stalled. Appear to get no spark ever since...but I do appear to be getting fuel to cylinders.
Thanks in advance for any help on this-
For a 95 to 98 model, 2.5l V6 - yes. For yours, don't know. For this same one, you don't have to remove the distributor to test it - but is not easy job: the connector is on one side - I have the book for 95-98 model if you want.



