Just stumped...00 2.5 V6 won't start
#1
10-06-2010, 08:51 PM
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Dighton, MA
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Just stumped...00 2.5 V6 won't start
Hello all, first post here, and I'm just looking for some insight....fresh ideas, and I apologize for a lengthy post but trying to be thorough.
My uncle has a 00 Stratus, 2.5V6 automatic, 86k miles. He said it's been bogging out for a while now, stalling, etc. but runs good other wise. Doesn't burn oil, sounds good when running, clean under valve covers ie no sludge. but the oil light has been on for a while. Check engine light comes and goes with the situation. Last week it overheated (thermostat), then died after getting off the highway 2 days later, shut off and would not start back up. Not sure if the overheating has anything to do with...well, anything. No check engine light, mind you, after it died while trying to restart. Uncle also said unplugging PCV helped make it run smooth before this happened.
He had it towed to his house, and started prying around. Found that the plugs were wet, both sides. He says with oil, but by the time I got there the spark side was dry, telling me fouling with fuel. Valve cover gaskets were the culprit for the latter, got new plugs/gaskets/wires to no avail. I then came over and started poking around, and I had a similar issue on a 96 Dakota that was a crank angle sensor. I tested the old one, could not get a resistance reading (open circuit) so got a new one with 3.5k ohms on pin 1+2. Also got a new EGR valve because the store was closing and I figured by the shape of the old one it couldn't hurt. Put both in, to no avail.
Sometimes it would start after a good bit of cranking, idle good for a few minutes. Misses/smell of raw fuel out exhaust when throttling in park or gear, no codes even after stalling out. I unplugged the MAP and IAT sensors on the manifold and after getting it started, which seemed like shoveling turd against high tide, I got only 2 codes for those two items, computer seems okay so far.
I can hear the fuel pump kick in pretty strong when key turned on and when cranking. Seems to have good fuel pressure, as disconnecting the line and pressing in the check valve on the supply line to the fuel rail relieves a good bit of pressure, haven't checked while cranking yet.
I suggested new distributor assembly, as it's 10 years old in New England and anything can corrode in that amount of time in this area. If this doesn't work, I'm not sure of where to go next, budget is the key factor. I can't pull any codes (cheap code reader), have replaced crank position sensor, new plugs, wires, new EGR valve (old tube was clean), and the plugs get wet with gas while cranking. Timing belt is in good shape, very tight, although I haven't visually checked the timing yet.
Any tips, tricks, information etc. is greatly appreciated. I can get my diesel running with a tie wrap and two relays jumped out, but this one has me stumped. Thanks again.
My uncle has a 00 Stratus, 2.5V6 automatic, 86k miles. He said it's been bogging out for a while now, stalling, etc. but runs good other wise. Doesn't burn oil, sounds good when running, clean under valve covers ie no sludge. but the oil light has been on for a while. Check engine light comes and goes with the situation. Last week it overheated (thermostat), then died after getting off the highway 2 days later, shut off and would not start back up. Not sure if the overheating has anything to do with...well, anything. No check engine light, mind you, after it died while trying to restart. Uncle also said unplugging PCV helped make it run smooth before this happened.
He had it towed to his house, and started prying around. Found that the plugs were wet, both sides. He says with oil, but by the time I got there the spark side was dry, telling me fouling with fuel. Valve cover gaskets were the culprit for the latter, got new plugs/gaskets/wires to no avail. I then came over and started poking around, and I had a similar issue on a 96 Dakota that was a crank angle sensor. I tested the old one, could not get a resistance reading (open circuit) so got a new one with 3.5k ohms on pin 1+2. Also got a new EGR valve because the store was closing and I figured by the shape of the old one it couldn't hurt. Put both in, to no avail.
Sometimes it would start after a good bit of cranking, idle good for a few minutes. Misses/smell of raw fuel out exhaust when throttling in park or gear, no codes even after stalling out. I unplugged the MAP and IAT sensors on the manifold and after getting it started, which seemed like shoveling turd against high tide, I got only 2 codes for those two items, computer seems okay so far.
I can hear the fuel pump kick in pretty strong when key turned on and when cranking. Seems to have good fuel pressure, as disconnecting the line and pressing in the check valve on the supply line to the fuel rail relieves a good bit of pressure, haven't checked while cranking yet.
I suggested new distributor assembly, as it's 10 years old in New England and anything can corrode in that amount of time in this area. If this doesn't work, I'm not sure of where to go next, budget is the key factor. I can't pull any codes (cheap code reader), have replaced crank position sensor, new plugs, wires, new EGR valve (old tube was clean), and the plugs get wet with gas while cranking. Timing belt is in good shape, very tight, although I haven't visually checked the timing yet.
Any tips, tricks, information etc. is greatly appreciated. I can get my diesel running with a tie wrap and two relays jumped out, but this one has me stumped. Thanks again.
#2
10-12-2010, 12:03 PM
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