Looked at the shop manual and everything looked straightforward. It says to turn crank (which way?) until TDC on compression stroke, then pull plug.

How do I know when I am TDC compression with the plug still in?

Do I really have to do that if the cylinder is pressurized to 120psi?

Do I really need those special tools to compress spring or can I use a generic spring compressor. Diagram doesnt really show how tight clearances are.

How do I turn crank exactly? Neutral, key out, all plugs in?

thanks

 

Oh, if you're asking these kind of questions, you shouldn't be messing with valves. One mistake and you'll have a valve in the motor and then you'll be totally screwed.

I run over 120 PSI to make sure the valves stay seated. It's best to use the recommended spring compresser because generic ones often don't fit properly which makes service more difficult and also more potential of error and dropping a valve. It's also tricky to keep the piston at TDC wiith compressed air as the piston is being forced down, so you need to figure a way to lock the crankshaoft. You ONLY crank the engine with a wrench on the crank pulley!!!!!

 

Well Im going for it. Plan on only doing the front 3. Rear 3 would be a night mare due to clearances. 3 is better than none.

Shop manual calls for special spring tool. Do I reallllllly need this? Cant I get away with a generic version. Also the manual calls for lash adjuster retainers. Could I get away with zip wire ties? These specialty tools cost a small fortune. The spring compressor is 350-400 bucks depending where you buy it.

 

I wouldn't attempt the job without the absolute correct tool. But hey nothing ventured nothing gained. If you don't try you'll never really know. Afterall more is learned from failure than success on the first try.