RPM / coil to plug question
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RPM / coil to plug question
Car: 2004 Dodge Stratus SE 2.4L – 57k miles
On Sunday, September 25th I changed out the stock ignition coil, sparkplug wires and spark plugs with the appropriate MSD Ignition Coil and 8.5mm Wires, and NGK IX Iridium plugs. I followed the instructions to the T. After I completed the install with the proper gap, torque and all, and re-attached the negative connection to the battery then I started the car. It started fine, but sounded a bit sputtery. I turned the car off and checked the wires where connected properly. I had read that I should let the car idle for 15-20 minutes for the computer to adjust. So I started the car and after a bit the engine smoothed out. So I took it out for a drive around the neighborhood, and it road great. It had more pick up from a stop and lower speeds. Later I pull out the air filter out and clean it a bit also to check on its shape. (I’m a noob to engine care and I’m considering either a K&N stock replacement or a Short RAM) So I pull out the Filter and pull twigs, leaves and crap out of it then go to re-install it only to notice the tube that connects the filter to what I think is the intake manifold was laying there not attached to anything. So I re-attach everything and make sure everything is tight. Oh, and the sensor had fallen out, so I put it back where it came from.
I’ll ask the question first before telling the rest: Is this normal, and I just have to adjust the RPMs while idling (I heard this can be done) or do I have a problem?
Fast-forward to the next morning. I started the car to begin the 50 mile journey to work. It was approx. 70 degrees out, overcast with no rain overnight. When any car starts the RPMs usually rev up at first but eventually settled down to a nice subtle purr. Now, my car revs up to 2000 RPMs when first started and settles to between 1400 and 1500 RPMs. This might be normal, but it sounds like the engine is running fast to me, not purring. When I put it in Drive the RPMs dropped to 900-1000 RPMs, but if I take my foot off the brake after I coast for 10 feet the RPMs jump up to 1100-1200 RPMs. Seeing as I had to go to work I drove it. It performed well the entire way. It just seemed a little too powerful when trying coast while in stop and go traffic. And sometimes the RPMs would drop quickly when almost stopped which would cause the brakes to stick better bringing me to an abrupt, herky-jerky stop, making me look like I just learned how to drive. When I got to work and put the car in park the engine still idled at approx. 1500 RPMs. Later when about half way home the MIL (check engine light) goes on. My father suggested I check the gas cap, since I had gotten gas on the way to work, but it clicked when turned and seemed to be on there fine.
Fast-forward to this morning. When I first replaced all the equipment and let the car run I didn’t think the engine was idling too high, but I could be wrong. So I decided to remove the negative battery cable and re-attached it 15 minutes later. I started the car and it seemed to idle at first at 1100-1200 RPMs then eventually dropped to 900-1000 and a nice purr. After 8 minutes or so the engine jumped to approx 1300 RPMs and eventually made its way back up to idling between 1400-1500 RPMs and stayed there. The Check Engine light went off after I rebooted the computer.
So, here we are and my question remains, is there a problem? How to I fix this?
Thank you far any advice you could give in advance.
On Sunday, September 25th I changed out the stock ignition coil, sparkplug wires and spark plugs with the appropriate MSD Ignition Coil and 8.5mm Wires, and NGK IX Iridium plugs. I followed the instructions to the T. After I completed the install with the proper gap, torque and all, and re-attached the negative connection to the battery then I started the car. It started fine, but sounded a bit sputtery. I turned the car off and checked the wires where connected properly. I had read that I should let the car idle for 15-20 minutes for the computer to adjust. So I started the car and after a bit the engine smoothed out. So I took it out for a drive around the neighborhood, and it road great. It had more pick up from a stop and lower speeds. Later I pull out the air filter out and clean it a bit also to check on its shape. (I’m a noob to engine care and I’m considering either a K&N stock replacement or a Short RAM) So I pull out the Filter and pull twigs, leaves and crap out of it then go to re-install it only to notice the tube that connects the filter to what I think is the intake manifold was laying there not attached to anything. So I re-attach everything and make sure everything is tight. Oh, and the sensor had fallen out, so I put it back where it came from.
I’ll ask the question first before telling the rest: Is this normal, and I just have to adjust the RPMs while idling (I heard this can be done) or do I have a problem?
Fast-forward to the next morning. I started the car to begin the 50 mile journey to work. It was approx. 70 degrees out, overcast with no rain overnight. When any car starts the RPMs usually rev up at first but eventually settled down to a nice subtle purr. Now, my car revs up to 2000 RPMs when first started and settles to between 1400 and 1500 RPMs. This might be normal, but it sounds like the engine is running fast to me, not purring. When I put it in Drive the RPMs dropped to 900-1000 RPMs, but if I take my foot off the brake after I coast for 10 feet the RPMs jump up to 1100-1200 RPMs. Seeing as I had to go to work I drove it. It performed well the entire way. It just seemed a little too powerful when trying coast while in stop and go traffic. And sometimes the RPMs would drop quickly when almost stopped which would cause the brakes to stick better bringing me to an abrupt, herky-jerky stop, making me look like I just learned how to drive. When I got to work and put the car in park the engine still idled at approx. 1500 RPMs. Later when about half way home the MIL (check engine light) goes on. My father suggested I check the gas cap, since I had gotten gas on the way to work, but it clicked when turned and seemed to be on there fine.
Fast-forward to this morning. When I first replaced all the equipment and let the car run I didn’t think the engine was idling too high, but I could be wrong. So I decided to remove the negative battery cable and re-attached it 15 minutes later. I started the car and it seemed to idle at first at 1100-1200 RPMs then eventually dropped to 900-1000 and a nice purr. After 8 minutes or so the engine jumped to approx 1300 RPMs and eventually made its way back up to idling between 1400-1500 RPMs and stayed there. The Check Engine light went off after I rebooted the computer.
So, here we are and my question remains, is there a problem? How to I fix this?
Thank you far any advice you could give in advance.