1998 2.4 DOHC runs rough and stalls
Timing belt broke and we had pepboys replace. During the replacement they told us that it required extensive repair due to valves hitting the piston. We declined and brought the house. I pulled the head and had the deck leveled and checked for cracks. After getting it back from the machinist I put the head back on and started the car. It is still running rough.
Did a dry compression test post head gasket replacement and all cylinders are 170PSI or higher. Book say 170 is the low side of spec. Engine has 120K miles.
things that have been replaced:
1. head gasket
2. head bolts
3. egr valve gasket
4. throttle body gasket
5. intake / exhaust gasket
6. valve cover gasket
7. new spark plug cables
8. new spark plugs
9. new timing belt
10. new serpentine belt
11. new coil pack (old one was registering below specs)
My friend suggested looking at the TPS and testing.
I was able to verify the resistance on the TPS is within specs when I check connector 1 & 3, but my volt meter doesn't seem to be picking up voltage when I check connector 1 & 2. This could be that I'm checking it wrong.
The engine is getting a spark but seems to sputter with no power. Keeping a constant pressure on the gas pedal seems to keep it from stalling, but the RPMs jump and vary greatly the whole time.
I'm not a car guy, and I don't have a scanner. Has anyone else experienced similar issues and can help me with troubleshooting and direction to what to repair?
Did a dry compression test post head gasket replacement and all cylinders are 170PSI or higher. Book say 170 is the low side of spec. Engine has 120K miles.
things that have been replaced:
1. head gasket
2. head bolts
3. egr valve gasket
4. throttle body gasket
5. intake / exhaust gasket
6. valve cover gasket
7. new spark plug cables
8. new spark plugs
9. new timing belt
10. new serpentine belt
11. new coil pack (old one was registering below specs)
My friend suggested looking at the TPS and testing.
I was able to verify the resistance on the TPS is within specs when I check connector 1 & 3, but my volt meter doesn't seem to be picking up voltage when I check connector 1 & 2. This could be that I'm checking it wrong.
The engine is getting a spark but seems to sputter with no power. Keeping a constant pressure on the gas pedal seems to keep it from stalling, but the RPMs jump and vary greatly the whole time.
I'm not a car guy, and I don't have a scanner. Has anyone else experienced similar issues and can help me with troubleshooting and direction to what to repair?
ok so I did the wet compression today and turn out Cylinder 2 went from 180 to 185 and cyl 3 went from 170 to 185. All other stayed the same. I went to pick your part and found a TPS and replaced it. Still runs rough.
Anyone out there that may be able to help?
Anyone out there that may be able to help?


