Ok, so three days ago I went out to start my 2001 Stratus SE 3.0l, and it had a hard time starting. Like the battery was low on juice. Kept draining down after 8-10 hours and it was hard to get started. No lights were left on

I have an Optima yellow top battery. I don't think it is this as I installed it in August 2005--so it should be good to go.

Alternator is fine with 14VDC output.

No other electrical issues.

Battery is usually around 11.5-12 volts when I go to start it, and it struggles.

Any ideas?

 

Well here's the email I sent Optima, with all the data that I got after running several "tests" of sorts on it. No reponse whatsoever from Optima. I am out of the 2 year warranty, and if they can't do anything, then fine, but for spending as much as you do on one of these, you would think they would have a better warranty, and at the very least respond to this. I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER OPTIMA--THEY ARE $200 PIECES OF CRAP, AND THE COMPANY IS FULL OF ITSELF DUE TO THE LACK OF RESPONSE.

To Whom It May Concern--

I bought an Optima battery in August 2005, and had zero problems until last Sunday 11MAY08. I found that the battery had drained down, and it was hard starting my car.

I tested the battery in the following ways--

1. Started car and ran it for 10 minutes.

Read out battery with multimeter immediately after shutdown--12.37VDC
Let it sit for 10 minutes
Read again and got 12.20VDC
Let it sit for another 10 minutes
Read 12.14VDC

2. Started car and ran it for another 10 minutes, disconnected Negative terminal.

Read out battery immediately after shutdown--12.44VDC
Let it sit 10 minutes.
Read again got 12.31VDC
Let it sit another 10 minutes
Read it, got 12.27VDC

3. Now the interesting part, I hooked it up, started and ran my car for another 10 minutes, shut down and disconnected BOTH Positive AND Negative terminals. Here are my readings--

Immediately following shut down and disconnect read 12.49VDC
Let sit for 10 minutes
Read 12.34VDC
Sit for 10 more
12.30VDC
10 minutes
12.28VDC
10 minutes
12.27VDC
10 minutes
12.26VDC
10 minutes
12.25VDC.

You'll notice by my readings I attained from the multimeter that after the first reading of all the different ways I did this test it discharged by about .15VDC in the first ten minutes, after sitting 20 minutes, it had discharged another .04, and on and on...

I then took it to the Autozone where I purchased it, and they trickle charged it and then ran the CCA test--it was drained in about 5-10 seconds after having a 12.98VDC (if I saw it right) charge.

The car info is as follows--

2001 Dodge Stratus SE, 3.0l 6 cyl

Info off of the Yellow Top battery--

Part Number--34/78-04 Made 07/05

"G58A" is stencil in little dots on the top of the battery near the edge by the Negative terminal

I am extremely disappointed in the longevity of this battery. 2 years and 8.5 months is not what I had expected after reading the advertisements you have for these batteries. The battery that came with my car from Dodge lasted from February 2001 (when I bought the car) to August 2005 (when I bought the Optima). The Optima lasted about two-thirds as long as a normal battery when your ads say it's supposed to last two to three times longer than normal batteries. This has not been true in my experience.

I bought this battery based on Optima's reputation as having a strong battery that would go the distance, but I have been severely disappointed in doing so. If it were only to last 2-3 years, I wouldn't have spent the amount of money on it that I did--I would have gotten something half or one-third the price.

For $180 I spent on this (with the military discount I got) I am not happy, and am requesting a solution to this from you folks. What can you guys do to make this right?

All in all, I believe I just got a "bad one" from you folks and normally it is not like this.

I am without my car right now so a quick response would be appreciated.

Thank you for your help in this matter,

 

Welcome to the world of Optima ...

first off yellow/blue tops are deep cycle and not recomended for daily starting running (red are for that)
I cook one yearly , thank goodness my Advanced auto can't prorate so I return it and they give me a new battery (I paid $8.00) price rise and tax on it ... New receipt yearly , then you have the replacement warranty

likely they will prorate it and give you $X.XX towards a new one ...

 

http://www.optimabatteries.com/optim.../yellowtop.php

I don't know, I take the "Deep cycling and cranking power all packed into one battery" part as it IS meant to start everyday. Just saying. Why would Autozone sell these to the general public as a normal battery if it were only meant for other things OTHER than starting a car? Makes no sense. Maybe I am showing some ignorance here, but I also believe I have an average understanding of the usage of car batteries.

 

I was told that by an optima rep at a car show that the blue/Yellow tops are BEST not used for the "Primary" battery ...
Autozone/Advanced have no idea what they sell ...
I Switched to the Red top and still have troubles but it's likely my 200 amp alternator cooking the battery, The Yellows /blues were barely lasting 4/6 months

 

Yeah, I should clarify that I understand why you would want a second battery, NOT for starting, for stuff like winches, lights, etc....

Yeah I think that 200AMP alternator may be it...

 

Guys these are3 completely different batterys.

Deep cycle is for slow drains and complete recharge. They can only be charged so many times.

Automotive is for CCA's and getting the motor started now. They can be charged many times but exspell energy out in differently. Basically one big boost. This is for starting a car.

I found some info on this so here is a link. There is better info out there but this covers the basics.

http://www.thefishingline.com/marine.htm