If someone has the electrical for the 5.7L Hemi engine, it would be appreciated. I need to know exactly where the brown / red 4 gauge from the alternator is heading to (my guess is the starter - which I need to find) and also the red wire that is coming to the battery (my guess is also from the starter). I think that they are using the starter as a jump point for the two wires. The alernator brown / red wire heads across the top of the engine towards the battery, then nosedives straight down towards the ground, passing the red wire that is coming up to the battery. Both of these wires form into the same split loom.

With the brown / red disconnected and the red from the battery disconnected, I am showing continuity on these two lines, thus my guess that they use the starter as a jump point. It would be nice to know this for sure given the nature of the electrical upgrade I am doing to this vehicle. Any and all info is appreciated.

E-mail and MSN is forbidden@telus.net

My local dealer is being less than helpful at this time, hopefully it is because they are too busy to help instead of unwilling to help.

 

Ok, so I found the starter, way up on the drivers side bottom of the engine. This is also where the 10 gauge fusable link isif you ever need to know. The red wire and the brown / red both connect to the same terminal on the starter. The brown / red has the fusable link. It is going to be a major PITA to change out this wire so I may leave it intact and bury it while I run a new line to the alternator.

 

Perhaps if you share what your trying to do we can come up with alternatives?

 

A monster stereo upgrade, huge, huge, huge. I am in the process of running the dual 0 gauge power / ground lines at this point in time. The factory alternator is next on the hit list. It is not even close to large enough for the current delivery that I require for this customers system.

 

Stereo stuff is not my specialty but I seriously doubt you need 00 guage wire? See http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm.
If you do then I suggest a remote located optima battery with custom cables and standard gold plated stereo battery terminals. Avoid altering anything underhood as much as possible.
The new 06 power distribution center is all solid state, no relays to replace. If you blow something you get to spend several hundred dollars replaceing the pdu.


Buck

 

I am a highly versed audio person, new to this site perhaps but not the industry. My background can be found on www.the12volt.com, my user name is the same there. So 00 gauge is 100% necessary, more than likely dual runs actually. This system is using 5 new batteries in it. We are also on the hunt for a 300amp alternator that will be a custom build. The main primary battery has been replaced with a Exide Orbital Purple Haze, with another 4 of the exact same to provide back up power when the vehicle is off. Our main sub amp has 300 amps of fusing alone in it. The other 3 amplifiers are all 90 amps each. So one crapload of power going into this vehicle. Optima batteries just do not last in these applications. I have burned out about 5 of them in the last 4 years alone so it was time for a change. These Exide batteries have proven to be solid performers thus far.

 

You see, I told you I know little of high end audio
Besides the rating of the equipment have you ever actually put a inductive amp probe on the the main power lead to see what a full blown system actually draws?
My concerns about tapping into the starter or alternator with 00 is that the lugs at those locations are weak already. Might stress em to much.
You could do it limo style and run 2 alternators for charging.
At least you have a lot of experience and I'm sure whatever you do will be real clean and nice.
Show us pics as it goes along? Sure would be a eye opener!

Buck
ASE master Tech who deals with burned up wiring after kiddies install 300 amp subs with wiring running loose under car, thru seat rails, around interfernece prone computers and who knows what/where else!

 

This is a 2 month job for two of us seasoned vets to pull off. We are well on the way and at this point in time have removed pretty much the entire inside of the vehicle. The dash is removed, the dash venting rerouted (to make way for the magnet of the center channel speaker) and now we are fabricating the center channel speaker grill out of aluminum. The door panels as well have been cut into pieces in order to fit the three oversize 6.5" speakers into each door. We have been taking pics as we go and will be posting them on our home forum of www.the12volt.com and quite possibly www.canadiancaraudio.com as well (since we are from the Great White North eh!).

Mods, feel free to move this to the audio forum please.

 

Just make sure you hook all that up to the brakes so that when applied it shuts that crap off so me and my family dont have to hear it at a stoplight

 

Haha, actually as loud as the system is truly capable of playing, it is 100% designed from the outset for tonal response. If tasked, yes it will play stinking loud. 2000watts rms to the subwoofer, 450watts rms to each of the front doors, 150watts rms to both the center speaker and rear door speakers. So a crapload of power on tap if necessary.