The PCM connector you're after is the C1 which is on the far left with the plugs facing up. The specific wires are in pins 4 (ground), 8 (CKP), 17 (5V), and 18 (CMP).

 

Thank You, I didn't think it was anything mechancial because as soon as it gets past the glitch it runs fine.

 

I am out side testing all the wiring and this is what I found. When I check to see if I have 5v across the ckp connector I get nothing but when I but the ground on the bell housing I read 5v and when I but one of the props in the middle pin and one on the outside pin I read a little over 5v. I also went up to the pcm and checked the connector pin you told me and the pcm has a good ground. I also checked the grounds that are on the bottom of the block and the ground that is on the passenger side of the block closest to the ckp sensor or starter one read 12v and the other reads like 6v so I think that is bad ground also. But instead of having to try and re do it can I just tap in to the wiring and give it a new ground.

 

I also noticed that the rattling noise is coming from the little tube that comes off the oil fill spout.

The tapping noise sounds like it's coming from the right side or passenger side of the engine. Is it possible that one of the injectors is bad or one of the coils is bad. What is a way to test if you of the injectors or coils is bad?

Would it be possible that they didn't change the right cam sprocket so the timing is off. But if the timing is off wouldn't it affect the engine in the entire rpm range and not just at a certain rpm.

Or do you think the pcm is bad because the sensors both had proper volts and grounds and the c1 connector had all the proper volt readings and grounds.

 

Your rattling noise is your PCV valve. Perfectly normal to hear that up close but if you hear it from a distance, it's time for a new one. When you're checking CKP voltages you need to ground one voltmeter lead to the negative battery terminal. Reckeck the voltages and let me know what you get on each wire.

 

Do you want me to do this at the pcm or at the sensor.

 

I just checked the c1 connector and this is following readings.

I had the key in the position that if I would of turned it anymore it would of started the jeep.

Pin 4 had a good ground I put the red on the battery and then put the black in the pin 4 and got a reading of 12.04 v.

Pin 18 I put the black on the neg battery and then put the red one in pin 18 and i couldn't get a volt reading so I got 0v.

Pin 17 I did the same with the black and then put the red in pin 17 and again I couldn't get a volt reading so 0v.

Pin 8 I put the black on the neg battery again anf then I put the red in pin 8 and I got a volt reading of 11.94v.

The reading on those pins don't make sense to me since I ran my hand along the harness and I couldn't find any melted or pinched wires. When I checked the volts down at the sensor I got a little over 5v on the two outside pins. I even put the black testing prob on the bellhousing and got the same results. I tested the cam sensors the same way and got the same results.

Thanks for your help!!

G103 Is where I think I might have a bad ground. There are two flat ground connectors that get screwed down to the block, one of the two connectors I got low volt reading from when I tested it.

Should I try and run some seafoam in the fuel system? Maybe I have a dirty fuel system which is causing the miss?

Another thought I have is do you think I sheared the crank key which is causing the timing to be off?