Having problems with the charging system on my '86 Dodge 600 convertible 2.2 3 speed automatic, even with a new mopar alternator it still runs the battery down, which is also a new one from autozone. I pulled the following codes from the power loss lamp, as i do not have the connector for my DRB 2, which would take three weeks to ship...snapon. The codes are 12,24,26,31,41,47,51.

The car has 145,000 on the clock and was brought as a project by me last month. It was running when i got it, and still is but not right. I want to fix the alternator problem, because its driving me crazy. It was replaced by a new, not rebuild Mopar one that i ordered at my local dealer. I'm thinking on the lines of the Power Module or Logic module being bad, but i hate to shoot in the dark and replace something thats not broke. And i have never heard of anyone having problems with the modules on older K and E body cars. Thanks in advance for any help on this.

 

Here's your code breakdown:
12- battery has been disconnected within the last 100 key on/offs
24- TPS voltage error
26- injector peak current
31- canister purge solenoid circuit
41- alternator field control circuit
47- charging output low
51- lean A/F ratio

 

Thanks for the code break down RoadRunner, I could not find them on the net, And i could not get my browser to load up Allpars site.

I'm rusty on the old chrysler 2.2 TBI cars, so if i am looking at this right, code 12 is the battery discharging/me removing it.

Code 24 must be a faluty TPS sensor which is triggering the code 26 as well. I will inspect the TPS wires and connection, if no problem there i will replace it.

Code 31 has me stumped. I know this is an emission code. Just have to find the solenoid and test/replace it.

Code 41&47 are the alternator problems thats driving me crazy. AS a goof i went to autozone last night and got another alternator, same deal it was only putting out 3.5 volts at a high idle, I miss external voltage regulators, Guess i will replace the power module and hope that fixes it.

Code 51 must be the O2 sensor causeing this fault, or the wires.

 

The best thing to do when having charging problems is to check all of the grounds and make sure that the connected tightly. Then DITCH that old alternator for a newer, more compact "Nipondenso(sp?)" unit that is found on Shadow's and some Daytona's from 1990 and up.

I had trouble with the charging system on my Omni GLH-T. It would charge fine while driving along with the RPM's up, but as soon as I would stop all of the lights would go very dim and in some cases the car would stall. I finally replaced the alternator with a Nipo. and everything has been charging great. The lights stay nice and bright while sitting at stops and no more codes for the charging system to low for too long.

Not much is needed to convert to the Nipo. It will bolt on just as the old one did with the brackets from the donor car. The only thing that needs modified is the connections for the alternator. Since the old (original) alt had some connections that where closer together than the Nipo. I had to carefully cut and remove the black molded plastic from the end of the wiring harness that connected to the old alt. Once that was done I simply reconnected the wires to the Nipo.

I think that I paid $25 for the Nipo. at a local auto salvage. Well worth the money if you like the idea of having a solid charging system.

Good Luck,
Troy

 

Thanks 87Indy500, i was actually looking into doing a GM one wire alternator convo on it but it looked like that would be some problems, i seen cars with the chrysler alt do this but not with the bosch 90 amp piece. Nippo it is then.

 

You might be able to use the same alternator that was on my Shelby Z, I believe it was a Nipondenso that was either 125 amp or 155 amp I can't exactly recall, but it was one of the two.

 

Thanks for all the help guys. Well i pulled the alt off and took it to autozone they said it checked out fine, wanting a second op i took it to firestone and they said it checked out fine to. So i'm back to square one again. Think i'm going to replace the logic and power module's and hope that gets it fixed, there a lot cheaper now then 10 years ago when i had to replace one. I have checked and rechecked all the wiring and found no problems there. I also looked for any shorts or live wires with the key off and its not discharging the battery that way. My volt meter showed 4.3 volts from it yesterday.

 

My alt. was brand new and still didn't charge worth a chit. But this is what fixed it.

This is the one you want.....

[IMG]local://upfiles/2684/Tr494866925.jpg[/IMG]

 

I thought there was supposed to be a code 55(end of code list)
after all the other codes. Are you sure you got them all?

 

There is and he knows, thats why he didn't bother to mention it.[sm=smiley2.gif]