Well guys, the time has come for me to perhaps be getting rid of my Ram for something more economical. So, I decided to look into srt4's, I have a few questions though.

-How much could I pick up a GREAT condition, average/low mileage SRT4 up for?
-What do I need to look out for in buying a used skittle?
-What are the problem areas for the srt4's?
-How much power can the drivetrain handle? Where are the weak spots?
-How bad is the insurance? I am 20, clean record, no wrecks...but I am 20 haha. So how terrible is the insurance on one of these guys?
-Finally, what kind of mileage are you guys getting?

If there is anything else I could know, that would be great. I don't want to buy a piece of **** some high schooler screwed up, so any info would great on what to look out for, what to pay and what to expect. Thanks guys!

 

Well, I don't really know how much more economical an SRT-4 is compared to your RAM considering the gas mileage isn't so great and you should use premium fuel, but I'll do my best to answer your questions.

You should be able to pick up a used one in great condition with low mileage for anywhere between $14K and $19K. They actually hold their value pretty well. As for insurance, it mostly depends on which state you live in but being you are 20 you're probably gonna get hosed a little bit, so I would make a lot of calls for quotes. With a clean recordand no accidents it shouldn't be all that bad. Maybe you'll luck out and they'll think its a regular neon (lol, my insurance co. didn't fall for that one). Gas mileage at best is around 22-23 MPG highway but I normally average 18-20 MPG with mixed hwy/city drivingwhile having some fun.

The stock internals can handle up to around 500 HP. The tranny is definitely the weak spot. I had mine replaced at 70K miles. The synchros often have problems. The engine is good. I would try to get one that is mostly stock with low miles. A lot of them have been heavily modded and driven real hard. I would also avoid bying one that has aftermarket bolt-ons. Like I said, stock is your best bet then you can do with it whatever you want from scratch. Otherwise, I would make sure the mods were installed by a reputable shop. It's a great car to have fun with and modify.

If you get a stock one I would suggest throwing on a Mopar Performance clutch, Mopar STS with booger bushings, and do a tranny flush to start. As for mods you have a lot of options but I would go with one of the Mopar stage kits, a cold air intake, cat back or turbo back exhaust, a new wastegate, a oil catch can, and maybe a throttle body among others. Also, keep your eye on the spark plugs and wires. The heat of the turbo tends to overheat the wires. You should look into a heat shield for that. Any misfires and the first thing to try is the plugs and wires. The coil pack is okay and I reccommend keeping the stock one. That's all for now. Good luck!

 

Yeah well I already have to run 89 octane in my truck so the extra jump to premium isn't so bad. I also average about 15 mpg with 75% highway, so 20ish is a big step for me.

Insurance may not be so bad for me, I work full time and am a full time college student maintaining a 3.7 gpa living at home, so my mom would probably stick the insurance under her. It would probably be fine being that she's a 48 year old woman with a spotless record and no accidents.

I already decided if I do get one, it will HAVE to be stock. I'll take one with intake/exhaust, but anymore than that and I will pass. I will also stick with the mopar stage kits.

How much is it to have a decent tranny built for it? If I go stage 1, exhaust and intake should the tranny handle that?

When buying used are there any specific things to look for? I just really want to find a decent, stock, unmolested skittle.

 

Stage 1 with an intake and exhaust won't put any strain on the car. If you buy without an OCC, check the throttle body and the intercoolerfor a build up of oil that got blown past the PVC valve. Also try to find out if the previous owner ran full synthetic motor oil in it.....

Dusty

 

Okay...I will correct a few things here. [/align][/align]1. Gas mileage is dependant upon how you drive. If I take it easy and stay out of boost I can see 32-34hwy mpg, I usually get around 24-25 on average. [/align][/align]2. The tranny in these cars is definitely not a weak spot. The Input shaft is at high horsepower levels (in excess of 450 wheel) If you treat it right it will treat you the same.[/align][/align]3. You cannot flush our transmissions. Its a drain/fill with Mopar ATF+4 and Friction Modifier for those with the Quaife LSD (04/05).[/align][/align]04 is really the prime year to look for. But check the door tag, you want an 04 BUILT in 04. Why do you ask? The 04s built in 03 have 03 axles, which are very weak. The 04s are the most receptive to mods and in general run higher numbers with similar mods than do some 03s and 05s. The 03s had an issue with the fourth spark plug wire and didn't have lsd. They also had smaller injectors, crappier stock tires, and no sunroof or Kicker Livin' Loud option. Another issue with a handful of 03s was flywheel bolts backing out, but I haven't heard of this in along time. The 05s have issues with the 3rd gear synchro due to an uncentered crossover cable on the shifter. An easy fix before it gets too bad.[/align][/align]What to look for when driving one/looking at it.[/align]- Check the engine bay, make sure there are no extra hoses or wires. If the WGA is stock the arm will be unthreaded, if its aftermarket you'll see threads. [/align]- As Dusty said, watch the throttle body and the blowby. Not a big issue really as it can be cleaned out.[/align]If you want pictures of stock engine bays and stock pieces im sure we could help you out with that. Where are you from? Maybe theres a member in the area who's knowledgeable enough to help you out.[/align]

 

Yeah I would love all the help I can get with this. I have always been around trucks/V8 cars, so the turbo 4 cylinder is a new beast to me. Also, I live in las vegas, Nevada.

 

There are plenty of SRT-4 owners in that area. If you have any specific questions I'd be happy to answer them. Heres a run down of available colors/trims for you in case you were wondering about that.[/align][/align]2003:[/align]Red, Black, Yellow, Silver[/align]2004[/align]Limited Yellows, Red, Black, Silver, Electric Blue[/align]2005 [/align]Black, Red, Limited Silver, Late model year White, Orange Blast[/align][/align]In 2005 200 Commemorative Edition SRT-4s were made. These are regular SRT-4s with an apperance package and badge numbers. They are stone white with electric blue stripes from the factory. There is a badge in the interior, and the seats are stitched with blue stitching.[/align][/align]In 2005 The ACR edition wasalso made available with no specific color, I've seen all but Silver. They came with 16x7 BBS wheels (instead of the SRTs 17x6 Mopars) mounted on 215 series tires (instead of 205s). They also have fully adjustable tokico struts. Keep in mind these struts have lower perches and alot of larger wheels cannot be run with them. They had ACR badging, ACR embriodery on the seats and harness inserts. [/align][/align][/align]As for insurance, I am a 22 y/o female with a great credit score, a blemish free record and my own full coverage policy. I pay a bit over $200 a month. Keep in mind RI is very expensive to insure vehicles, NV may be different. Quotes are your best bet. [/align][/align]If you plan on buying this car and want it to last maintenance is key.[/align]- Regular 3k interval oil changes with Full syn 5w30 oil (I run 0w40 winter, 5w20 spring and 5w30 summer/fall)[/align]- Regular changing of your spark plugs (Say every 15k, NGK4306 is preferable)[/align]- Regular Tranny fluid changes with ATF+4 and FM, every 12-18k[/align]- Regular PCV valve changing (I change this and my plugs every 6k, I am insane, most change this every 15-20k)[/align]- Adding an oil catch can to prevent blow by from clogging your IC is key also.[/align][/align]I could keep going and going, but if you have specific questions it may help bring my babbling down a notch.[/align]

 

^on that note, im at 30k+ on the origional pcv... i take it it should have been changed already? add to the list of things to do

 

I change mine because its a terrible piece of plastic that causes boost leaks, and blowby and all sorts of nonsense. It doesnt say to do so in the manual, but for $8-9 why the hell not? Like I said I change mine every 6k along with my plugs. I'm meticulous about my car. Probably why it has 94,7xx on it and runs like its brand new.