few questions for the people who know turbos
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 710
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From: United States
RE: few questions for the people who know turbos
ORIGINAL: 2005 SrT4 2005
i have a few questions regarding an aftermarket turbo on a srt-4
im a newbie to turbos and lets say i done have the 750cc injectors and wastgate and new fuel pump and fuel rail and turbo time and diff exhaust so the turbo can breathe and bigger intercooler
1.If I change out turbos lets say to a t3/t4 turbo .60 or .50 trim can i just change the turbo and hook it up and just set my psi down low and work my way up
2.do i haft to have someone tune it or is it something i do myself or any garages can do
3. if i haft to have someone tune it is it expensive
4.how much just it usually cost for a turbo change like that
in my area there is not many places just little old garages and thats it so i will haft to search a little bit more but i have not found a place to dyno my car either which sucks again
thanks for the info and the nice people willing to help out
i have a few questions regarding an aftermarket turbo on a srt-4
im a newbie to turbos and lets say i done have the 750cc injectors and wastgate and new fuel pump and fuel rail and turbo time and diff exhaust so the turbo can breathe and bigger intercooler
1.If I change out turbos lets say to a t3/t4 turbo .60 or .50 trim can i just change the turbo and hook it up and just set my psi down low and work my way up
2.do i haft to have someone tune it or is it something i do myself or any garages can do
3. if i haft to have someone tune it is it expensive
4.how much just it usually cost for a turbo change like that
in my area there is not many places just little old garages and thats it so i will haft to search a little bit more but i have not found a place to dyno my car either which sucks again
thanks for the info and the nice people willing to help out
1. No, you can't, well you can, but to make power you can't.
2. Yes, someone who knows what they are doing needs to tune it for you, preffereably on a dyno. You are asking different parts to work together, something the Dodge guys spend millions and months doing. It takes some skill to do it without blowing head gaskets or worse.
3. Depends, but figure at least a few hundred, most likely for both dyno time and extra for tuning.
4. Bolt on AGP kit shold be around $1500 or so.
5. As andy said, you'll need to spend $500 to $1500 for fuel and boost control.
First thing is to define your goals and priorities.
Expected whp, how fast do you expect to be, daily driver or trailer queen, that kind of thing. Where are you located at, might be a good tuner near you.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
From: United States
RE: few questions for the people who know turbos
600 fwhp is a very relistic number with the mods i listed...you have to crack open the motor to move beyond the 450whp range or you will just blow it up...
1. either psi or agp big turbo...prefer t4 in .50 trim.
2.RC injectors 750, 850's even better will allow 100 shot of nitrous with no problems.
3. MPX down pipe and mopar borla, 3 inch will work but losses to much bottom end, go dyno it.
4. large FMIC, either brand is good, but in my books perrin is the best for flowing good numbers.
5. E-01/E-manage..contact exhaust depot..they will hook you up with a preset unit with only minor tuning reguired..for under a grand shipped.(the e-01/e-manage can handle the nitrous with no problems you can program it to inject at a preset level leaving your hands free to drive, you will how ever have to open the bottle and arm it to make it work...no such thing as a hands free nitrous system...yet.)
6. Turbonetics newgen wastegate(price is not for the faint, but it is the best out there if you got a big turbo upgrade on the srt-4)
7. A good CAI prefer K&N's typhoon.
8. Nitrous intercooler either brand will work fine.
9. Water injection is a must to control detanation, even on race gas. There are a few good units out there.
10. Mopar 255lph fuel pump.
11. Good fuel pressure regulator( i prefer the accufab unit as its the easiest to fine tune)
12. YOU MUST use a fuel return line...no way out of this. either kit is fine there are several out there.
13. DSS 550 whp axles are a must.
13. Mopar clutch upgrade at minimum, even on this i would prefer the clutchmaster stage 4
14. Eagle connecting rods are required at anyting over 400fwhp if you want your motor to survive.(also now is a good time to throw the factory cast pistons and put in a sit of forged pistons and add ARP head studs as well for greater clamping power.)
15. Gapless Piston rings. No way out of this. If you short cut here you will be changing your catch can once a week.
16. Crane cam's 224 grind bumpstick or a number #0016 cam. The stock rockers are bullit proff no need to change them, while your at it install some crane valve springs to keep you new cam working the way it was built.
17. A good head porting job..Howell automotive has done a great job on mine, and i recommend them to anyone. Same goes for the intake manifold you have to open it up.
18. 60mm minium throdle body to handle the bigger turbo flow rates.
19. You will have to fabraicate the following pieces..pressure pipe and turbo to intercooler pressure pipe. Any good muffler shot can do this just take your old pieces with you were they will have something to use as a template, and be prepared you will have to trim these pieces so they will fit probaly..also watch out if you got the mopar s3 coilovers or the drop springs, your new turbo to intercooler pressure pipe will be about 2 1/2 to 3 inches from the road.
20. Good engine mounts, not inserts.
Well you need to upgrade your brakes, stoptech's are the best out there..also good rims are a must dont go cheap here or it might bite you in the ***, i have had no problems with the stock rims..traction will be a big problem expect wheel spin in all of first and second and most of second..and be carefull at these levels the car is dangerously fast and some what unpredickable on uneven/rough roads, best bet is to leave it in the garage if it rains/snows/sleets/or ice...you cant keep it on the road...yes its that bad now.
Actually i just reread this and this is my current sit up...i got carried away with this...this set up is dangerously close to 800fwhp with out any nitrous, and 28 psi of boost. It is not for the faint or timed of heart. This sit up will get you killed if you dont know how to drive the car. Even with 17x8 rims and 225 45 x17 street tires(i run dunlop sp sport) you can get wheel spin at 70mph in third gear....and if you have cars on both sides of you on the freeway you dont want this. And for some more preaching on the e-01/e-mange you can sit up what i call a driver mood, this way it limits boost to around 13 psi or lower for street driving and can be sit back to race with only the press of a button for all out performance..i have three levels perset in mine, once for street, sport street, and full race, which is a no holds barred setup.
I have a few body/suspension mods but not worth getting into.
And yes PSI CHICK i will post this on the forums were you guys and girls can debate it till hell freezes over.
1. either psi or agp big turbo...prefer t4 in .50 trim.
2.RC injectors 750, 850's even better will allow 100 shot of nitrous with no problems.
3. MPX down pipe and mopar borla, 3 inch will work but losses to much bottom end, go dyno it.
4. large FMIC, either brand is good, but in my books perrin is the best for flowing good numbers.
5. E-01/E-manage..contact exhaust depot..they will hook you up with a preset unit with only minor tuning reguired..for under a grand shipped.(the e-01/e-manage can handle the nitrous with no problems you can program it to inject at a preset level leaving your hands free to drive, you will how ever have to open the bottle and arm it to make it work...no such thing as a hands free nitrous system...yet.)
6. Turbonetics newgen wastegate(price is not for the faint, but it is the best out there if you got a big turbo upgrade on the srt-4)
7. A good CAI prefer K&N's typhoon.
8. Nitrous intercooler either brand will work fine.
9. Water injection is a must to control detanation, even on race gas. There are a few good units out there.
10. Mopar 255lph fuel pump.
11. Good fuel pressure regulator( i prefer the accufab unit as its the easiest to fine tune)
12. YOU MUST use a fuel return line...no way out of this. either kit is fine there are several out there.
13. DSS 550 whp axles are a must.
13. Mopar clutch upgrade at minimum, even on this i would prefer the clutchmaster stage 4
14. Eagle connecting rods are required at anyting over 400fwhp if you want your motor to survive.(also now is a good time to throw the factory cast pistons and put in a sit of forged pistons and add ARP head studs as well for greater clamping power.)
15. Gapless Piston rings. No way out of this. If you short cut here you will be changing your catch can once a week.
16. Crane cam's 224 grind bumpstick or a number #0016 cam. The stock rockers are bullit proff no need to change them, while your at it install some crane valve springs to keep you new cam working the way it was built.
17. A good head porting job..Howell automotive has done a great job on mine, and i recommend them to anyone. Same goes for the intake manifold you have to open it up.
18. 60mm minium throdle body to handle the bigger turbo flow rates.
19. You will have to fabraicate the following pieces..pressure pipe and turbo to intercooler pressure pipe. Any good muffler shot can do this just take your old pieces with you were they will have something to use as a template, and be prepared you will have to trim these pieces so they will fit probaly..also watch out if you got the mopar s3 coilovers or the drop springs, your new turbo to intercooler pressure pipe will be about 2 1/2 to 3 inches from the road.
20. Good engine mounts, not inserts.
Well you need to upgrade your brakes, stoptech's are the best out there..also good rims are a must dont go cheap here or it might bite you in the ***, i have had no problems with the stock rims..traction will be a big problem expect wheel spin in all of first and second and most of second..and be carefull at these levels the car is dangerously fast and some what unpredickable on uneven/rough roads, best bet is to leave it in the garage if it rains/snows/sleets/or ice...you cant keep it on the road...yes its that bad now.
Actually i just reread this and this is my current sit up...i got carried away with this...this set up is dangerously close to 800fwhp with out any nitrous, and 28 psi of boost. It is not for the faint or timed of heart. This sit up will get you killed if you dont know how to drive the car. Even with 17x8 rims and 225 45 x17 street tires(i run dunlop sp sport) you can get wheel spin at 70mph in third gear....and if you have cars on both sides of you on the freeway you dont want this. And for some more preaching on the e-01/e-mange you can sit up what i call a driver mood, this way it limits boost to around 13 psi or lower for street driving and can be sit back to race with only the press of a button for all out performance..i have three levels perset in mine, once for street, sport street, and full race, which is a no holds barred setup.
I have a few body/suspension mods but not worth getting into.
And yes PSI CHICK i will post this on the forums were you guys and girls can debate it till hell freezes over.
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 710
Likes: 0
From: United States
RE: few questions for the people who know turbos
ORIGINAL: andybuzz2u
Already done......just remember he who laughs first, seldom laughs last......
Already done......just remember he who laughs first, seldom laughs last......
And luckily for us, there's an exception to prove every rule. 
Same deal as always. Since you claim to have all this stuff, go ahead and post some pics, like the turbo, the injectors and rail, Maybe a reciept from Howell. That spiffy wastegate, hopefully a better one that the one you made up last time.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
From: United States
RE: few questions for the people who know turbos
GLHS, you no and i no that ant gonna happen. You can post pics of what you want, i don't care, when someone dosent believe me there calling me a liar, and when that happens i dont care what they think, and its not challenging enough to me to prove them otherwise, enjoy the post..thats why i typed it.
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 710
Likes: 0
From: United States
RE: few questions for the people who know turbos
I call you a liar becuase it's true. "Not challenging to prove them wrong"? Now that's good For the new guys, andy has a history of making up stuff about his car to sound cool. Never once has he been able to back up his assertions. Without good clear photos, believe nothing he says. He lies.
For the new guys, andy has a history of making up stuff about his car to sound cool. Never once has he been able to back up his assertions. Without good clear photos, believe nothing he says. He lies.
Veteran
Joined: Oct 2004
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From:
RE: few questions for the people who know turbos
man, andy, you are definitely full of more **** than I was aware existed in the universe. I applaud you for sticking to your guns, though, it is endlessly entertaining. I really would like to see you pull 800 some horsepower out of this motor and not even make a ripple in the sport compact community.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
From: United States
RE: few questions for the people who know turbos
Well today i told what i did, how i did it, and i threw a slip up, there will be no videos posted by me, or any futher pics, so take it or leave it...anyone wants to do the same mods come back and we will sit down and talk about it, and i will refrain from saying i told you so...it could be done...next mod for me.....probaly will be an automatic, cause no one can shift faster than an automatic. More than likely it will be from forward motion, after all they did ***'s automatic for there srt-4..and its well into the 8's or 7's by now havent had time to watch the drag season this year.