rotors...?
just because a company offers it doesn't mean that it's a good idea. many people use rotors that are drilled and slotted, and there's nothing wrong with that as long as you understand that these rotors aren't going to last as long as a set that are only drilled or only slotted. also, your pads are going to wear down at a much higher rate than normal with slotted rotos. that is the reason that many companies will not offer rotors that are slotted and drilled.
they do surve their purpose as long as they are done correctly, but there are risks involved that companies might not always tell you about. just because something has "BAER" stamped on it doesn't mean that it's the best thing out there. believe me, i put a brembo kit on a friend's wrx and wasn't impressed, even though they have the name going for them.
they do surve their purpose as long as they are done correctly, but there are risks involved that companies might not always tell you about. just because something has "BAER" stamped on it doesn't mean that it's the best thing out there. believe me, i put a brembo kit on a friend's wrx and wasn't impressed, even though they have the name going for them.
Easy there psi. I think there may be other issues on the drilling or slotting rotors, cost of machining being one. Also there is a very detailed rotor seasoning and pad bedding procedure available on the bear website, good info for all cars. improper break in may contribute to stress cracking. I am no expert on brakes but im sure I will not be dissapointed going from 4 wheel drums...lol. I really like the stock binders on the srt.
I dont know, Psi. i have drilled & slotted disc on mines for a while and i havent seen any warp indication or stress cracks on the disc. Although, i dont really power brake either. But, i do agree that slotted disc wear ya pads more cause i took notice.
Now as far as drilled disc, i have seen multi-hair-crack on my pilots wrx. He has the Willwood package and he's a little pissed of. I told him that those 'holes' were too close to one another as for other drilled disc are more spaced out. That hard braking, which he likes to do, may cause crack cause of the high heat. He took note of it and recently dicovered it this weekend past.
Peace
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Now as far as drilled disc, i have seen multi-hair-crack on my pilots wrx. He has the Willwood package and he's a little pissed of. I told him that those 'holes' were too close to one another as for other drilled disc are more spaced out. That hard braking, which he likes to do, may cause crack cause of the high heat. He took note of it and recently dicovered it this weekend past.
Peace
[sm=teetertooter.gif]
I also argee on the slotted wearing faster, but there are a couple things I disagree with. Cross drilled rotors will crack under heavy stress more easily than non drilled. If you walk around the pits at any porsche/BMW/Ferrari track day (road course) you will see hairlines in the rotors of a ton of those vehicles. For drag racing - no problem. For extended periods of hard, repeated braking slotted or solid discs are better in durability(when it comes to cracking), but do get hotter.
I definitely disagree with rpsiguy in this instance, I have had the stock brakes fade out many times. Hps pads helped, but there is plenty of room for improvement over stock.
What about running track pads for the track and street pads for the street. The hot discs aren't a problem for the track pad(they need hot discs). I would imagine that a slotted rotor with a racing pad is your best bet for performance. (slotted for the rare wet track day)
I definitely disagree with rpsiguy in this instance, I have had the stock brakes fade out many times. Hps pads helped, but there is plenty of room for improvement over stock.
What about running track pads for the track and street pads for the street. The hot discs aren't a problem for the track pad(they need hot discs). I would imagine that a slotted rotor with a racing pad is your best bet for performance. (slotted for the rare wet track day)
Slotted rotors disipate heat just as well if not better than cross drilled, but they do eat up the pads faster than cross drilled. The cross drilled are fine, but when used in heavy braking like road race courses they will crack from the holes out. I would hate to see how much slotted and cross drilled rotors cost you if you race it on a course, between the rotors cracking and chewing pads it's got to cost a small fortune. My friends that race in SCCA have always told me to stick with slotted rotors if you intend to race it because of the cross drilled cracking, but that the cross drilled are fine otherwise and for light track use.
amy, what site did you order those drilled rotors from? i think i might order them soon, since im also gonna be changing my rims and tires....how much did it cost, well guess ill see once you post the site, thanks
i got them from moparsupercenter. call them up and ask for jeff, he'll give you a good deal! I got them during a "sale" and it was $199 for the rears, and $229 for the fronts with free shipping and free cadium coating.
That would work just fine, but it would be more benefitial and cheaper if you shopped aroud for a good lightweight set of aftermarket wheels. Get a good set of 17 X 7's in 5 X 100 pattern that are lightweight, most manufacturers give the weight of each wheel in every size, then you will be far better off. Then you can put on 225 or 235 tires and have really good grip.


