Ok I have done the research and it appears to me the K & N Typhoon CAI (complete cold air intake) is the one for me.
However, the more I read the more it seems that the horse power that this mod gives becomes more and more elusive...

Can anyone give me an idea of what horse power increase to expect from this 200 dollar modification??

I know it sounds good and looks good and is great for future mods that add more horse power but are there any horse power gains for installing it all things being equal??

Chrysler claims that cold air intake mods can "cause compressor surge - the turbo accelerating so quickly that it stalls the air flow in the compressor turbine"
Has anyone with the cold air experienced this?


5 maybe 10 HP?? anyone have an idea??

Thanks in advance!

 

ok... i did a little research before buying my K&N Typhoon intake for my Neon SXT (YES, NOT AN SRT-4 but it is still a sound that envokes awe). Anyways... i looked it up on the K&N website... and in total, they dyno'd the thing to give around 6.8 hp at around 80-85 degrees (somewhere in between). That, my friend, is pretty nice out of a new intake. I'm loving it and no regrets. (P.S. i got a video of it in my car... anyone know any places i might be able to host the video file (hopefully for free) so i could let fellow members view it?)

 

Thanks I appreciate your time !
If I can pick up 5+ ponies and get the sound and looks ..then I am in!

 

It will sound great, but you won't feel the power increase. Be carefull when it rains, because it sits extreamly low.

 

Yes, if you are worried about water logging your engine then I'd go with a SRI (Short Ram Intake) there is no real difference in performance.

 

I disagree with the short ram and the CAI having no performance difference. Last month someone wrote into Sport Compact Car about a 2004 SRT-4 and if he should save $$ and get the short ram or save up and get the CAI. The response was clear.... CAI reduces the air temp and thereby gets you more horsepower. How much more? Read the article because I don't remember. Also when it comes to horsepower it is really impossible to gauge without a dyno. I put on the Mopar CAI and Mopar CAT back and found the car more responsive, but I would not say it added more than 10 total. Later I put on a Stage 1 computer and WOW. Big difference.

 

RESPONDING TO got boost and coyoteys13: rain will do nothing to your cai/motor, if you submerge your filter in a deep puddle then thats a different story. ive had my k&n cai on my car for over a year and i still like it to this day. I also have a cai on my 98 eclipse that i use to drive to work and i riged it up so it takes direct air from the front of the car (like if you took one of our fog lights out) and its been on there for almost 3 years now with no problems and ive driven it hundreds of times in the rain behind trucks on the highway that were blasting my front end with water... and no hydro lock.

edit: both of you go look up water injection

 

Just found this post in srtforums all about the K&N for 200 bucks I'll avoid the problem....back to the drawing board. Anyone tried the Mopar?




WARNING to all K&N Typhoon CAI Owners!!!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Disclaimer: The following account is of this specific experience and does not represent all uses of this product.

This weekend a World Challenge SRT4 had a problem with a "fuel cut out at above 5200 rpm". After analyzing engine data from the vehcile during the "fuel cut", it was determined that the K&N Typhoon CAI was sucking shut at high airflows.

This was determined by the fact that the MAP and TIP sensor were showing normal boost levels and then went to vacuum at 5200 rpm. The only way to have a vacuum at the TIP sensor which is in front of the throttle is to have some sort of restriction upstream. Since the issue was rpm or flow dependent, it would not be possible to have some foriegn object in the hose after the turbo because it would cause a restriction at all rpms. The hoses after the turbo could never suck shut since they are under pressure. The induction hoses were the only possible problem. When the engine is running high flow rates (high boost and high rpm) there is a significant anount of vacuum in the induction due to restriction. The Typhoon system has a soft 90 degree hose at the connection to the turbo. This also happens to be the highest vacuum point in the entire induction system. When the vacuum in the hose is high enough (about 5200rpm @ 18 psi) the hose colapses. This cuts all airflow to the engine and acts like an upstream throttle body that is closed. It feels like a "fuel cut" becasue there is no air entering the engine and no power is being made. When the stock induction system was reinstalled, the vehicle returned to normal operation and the "fuel cut" was fixed.

The way to tell if this is happening is to look at the boost gauge. If the boost guage shows boost and then goes to a high vacuum when you still have the pedal to the floor, the induction system is sucked shut.

I hope this helps. Please post if you have this problem.
__________________
If you found the above information useful, please make a donation to the Dodgetweaker Stage 3 Fund. For just pennies a day, you can give a deprived engineer the power that every SRT4 owner should have. Donations can be made to Dodgetweaker@aol.com on PayPal. Thank You.

Never argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by DODGETWEAKER : 06-05-2005 at 06:48 PM.

 

I wasn't talking about water logging your engine under normal rain circumstances, I was talking about like you said deep puddles.

 

well you need to say just that... so you dont have a bunch of noob moders blasting cai's because it will lock your engine like a lot already do. not trying to sound like an *** so sorry if i am but you kinda have to take in to account the wide range of people that are viewing here.