mopar bov instal
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Joined: May 2004
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mopar bov instal
Hey guys i just ordered a mopar bov and will get it tomarrow... have u guys put yours in or had the dealer do it? If u did it how hard was it? any hints that u found out towards the end of it that you would rather have know before u started 
, if u had the dealer instal it how much did it cost? were u happy with there work? thanks guys.
, if u had the dealer instal it how much did it cost? were u happy with there work? thanks guys.
R.I.P. Dusty (Retired Moderator
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 24,471
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From: Alamosa, Colorado (200 yards from the Rio Grande)
RE: mopar bov instal
A dealer will charge you $75-$100 to put it on. 71RoadRunner put his on himself and got some "special" wrenches to make the job easier. I'm sure he'll let you know what you need to do it yourself. No matter who puts it on, get yourself a tube of Permatex Hylomar HPF Gasket Dressing and Flange Sealant to put on the gasket for a leak-proof seal...any auto parts store should carry it...[sm=smiley4.gif]
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 710
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From: United States
RE: mopar bov instal
the special tool is whats called a ratcheting box end.
http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=prod...559-1074-81006
Looks like this.
The most important thing to do is : TIE THE WRENCH TO SOMETHING!!!!!!!!!! If you drop it, you can easily make a 45minute to 1 hour job last 2 or more. A lot of folks have lost wrenchs. With a string tied off, you can always just pull it back up. Accessing the third bolt can be a serious pain. If you have no access fro the top, approach it from under the exhaust manifold, coming in from the passenger side. Sounds nuts, but trust me.
http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=prod...559-1074-81006
Looks like this.
The most important thing to do is : TIE THE WRENCH TO SOMETHING!!!!!!!!!! If you drop it, you can easily make a 45minute to 1 hour job last 2 or more. A lot of folks have lost wrenchs. With a string tied off, you can always just pull it back up. Accessing the third bolt can be a serious pain. If you have no access fro the top, approach it from under the exhaust manifold, coming in from the passenger side. Sounds nuts, but trust me.
Legend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 9,543
Likes: 2
From: United States
RE: mopar bov instal
I think I should create a thread that stays up top for the BOV install.
OK, here's what you need:
10mm ratcheting wrench
10mm open end short wrench
a long flat head screw driver
Permatex Hylomar Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant
Tips:
Follow the instructions from the Mopar BOV(read through it a few times so you know it well), but you do not need to remove the battery(it would help to get a better angle on some of it though). You will need to go from the passenger side with your left arm up under the turbo with the ratcheting wrench to get the hard to get to bolt out.
Apply a very thin layer of the Permatex to both sides of the gasket. Put the gasket on the Mopar BOV on the flat side without the opening in the center and align the moon shaped opening.
Make sure that the open center of the Mopar BOV is facing out into the factory BOV and that the moon shaped opening is matching the turbo housing perfectly.
Put the entire assembly(gasket, Mopar BOV, BOV and hard to get to bolt) in together as a whole, make damn good and sure that everything is aligned the way it's supose to be as you put it on, just like in the instructions.
You will have to lightly bend/flex/nudge the hard turbo oil line out of the way for the assembly to go on and for you to put in the hard to get to bolt. This oil line will still be in the way of using the 10mm ratcheting wrench, that is why you use the 10mm open end short wrench. You will want the short wrench, because it is lighter, easier to control and maneuver and your less likely to drop it because of this. After the bolt is in far enough you can switch back to the ratcheting wrench to finish it off.
For your first time, it will take about an hour.
OK, here's what you need:
10mm ratcheting wrench
10mm open end short wrench
a long flat head screw driver
Permatex Hylomar Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant
Tips:
Follow the instructions from the Mopar BOV(read through it a few times so you know it well), but you do not need to remove the battery(it would help to get a better angle on some of it though). You will need to go from the passenger side with your left arm up under the turbo with the ratcheting wrench to get the hard to get to bolt out.
Apply a very thin layer of the Permatex to both sides of the gasket. Put the gasket on the Mopar BOV on the flat side without the opening in the center and align the moon shaped opening.
Make sure that the open center of the Mopar BOV is facing out into the factory BOV and that the moon shaped opening is matching the turbo housing perfectly.
Put the entire assembly(gasket, Mopar BOV, BOV and hard to get to bolt) in together as a whole, make damn good and sure that everything is aligned the way it's supose to be as you put it on, just like in the instructions.
You will have to lightly bend/flex/nudge the hard turbo oil line out of the way for the assembly to go on and for you to put in the hard to get to bolt. This oil line will still be in the way of using the 10mm ratcheting wrench, that is why you use the 10mm open end short wrench. You will want the short wrench, because it is lighter, easier to control and maneuver and your less likely to drop it because of this. After the bolt is in far enough you can switch back to the ratcheting wrench to finish it off.
For your first time, it will take about an hour.
Captain
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 659
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From:
RE: mopar bov instal
I agree with all but three things- you may use them as you wish, obviously my way didn't work better for RR:
1. I found the easiest way to access the tough bolt (you don't know what we're talking about now, but trust me, you will...) was to bend over the drivers side and come up from under the turbo with the wrench, using your left finger to hold the wrench on the bolt (I'm a pretty skinny guy though). Use your fingers to get the bolt started, then the wrench. It's a slow process, so be patient.
2. By doing it this way, I found no need to move the oil line out of the way, which I was very hesitant to mess with- bend it too much and you'll break it where it screws into the turbo. If you remove it, you run the risk of either not re-installing it properly, or not getting as good a seal when you re-install it.
3. This one is completely up to you, but I chose to put the tough bolt through the assembly (diaphragm, valve, and gasket) before I put it in the car, then let the entire assembly hang toward the floor as I finger tightened the bolt into the hard-to-reach bolt hole (The hard bolt is the lower most one). Then I rotated the entire assembly up into position and inserted the other two bolts. I then wrenched the bolts tight sequentially (a couple turns on one bolt, then another, then the other, until they're all snug). The danger of this technique is that if you're not careful, you will break the flange on the diaphragm assembly when you rotate it back up into place. It's not a real concern as long as you're careful, and it gives you infinitely better access to the tough bolt.
What I did not do, and never thought of, was glhs' "tie-a-string-to-the-wrench-idea". I definitely recommend this since I dropped the damn thing three times and was able to retrieve it just by blind luck (you can't see it down there when you drop it, much less reach it). And, of course, you wouldn't want to leave it there unless you like having a tempered piece of steel around all those moving parts (a "monkey wrench in the works", as it were).
1. I found the easiest way to access the tough bolt (you don't know what we're talking about now, but trust me, you will...) was to bend over the drivers side and come up from under the turbo with the wrench, using your left finger to hold the wrench on the bolt (I'm a pretty skinny guy though). Use your fingers to get the bolt started, then the wrench. It's a slow process, so be patient.
2. By doing it this way, I found no need to move the oil line out of the way, which I was very hesitant to mess with- bend it too much and you'll break it where it screws into the turbo. If you remove it, you run the risk of either not re-installing it properly, or not getting as good a seal when you re-install it.
3. This one is completely up to you, but I chose to put the tough bolt through the assembly (diaphragm, valve, and gasket) before I put it in the car, then let the entire assembly hang toward the floor as I finger tightened the bolt into the hard-to-reach bolt hole (The hard bolt is the lower most one). Then I rotated the entire assembly up into position and inserted the other two bolts. I then wrenched the bolts tight sequentially (a couple turns on one bolt, then another, then the other, until they're all snug). The danger of this technique is that if you're not careful, you will break the flange on the diaphragm assembly when you rotate it back up into place. It's not a real concern as long as you're careful, and it gives you infinitely better access to the tough bolt.
What I did not do, and never thought of, was glhs' "tie-a-string-to-the-wrench-idea". I definitely recommend this since I dropped the damn thing three times and was able to retrieve it just by blind luck (you can't see it down there when you drop it, much less reach it). And, of course, you wouldn't want to leave it there unless you like having a tempered piece of steel around all those moving parts (a "monkey wrench in the works", as it were).
Legend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 9,543
Likes: 2
From: United States
RE: mopar bov instal
I'm not too skinny myself, so coming from the drivers side wasn't even an option.[sm=smiley36.gif] I'm also a lefty, so the way I did it worked great for me.
On mine I had to move the oil line a little, because the entire assemby would not fit in there with the hard bolt. I really didn't want to even think about moving that line even a little bit, but I had no other option.
We did the last part the same, I put it all together as one assembly with the hard bolt as well. After I got that one started, I swiveled the assembly into place and then started the other 2 bolts. Then I went around and snugged them all up twice to make sure it was all even.
On mine I had to move the oil line a little, because the entire assemby would not fit in there with the hard bolt. I really didn't want to even think about moving that line even a little bit, but I had no other option.
We did the last part the same, I put it all together as one assembly with the hard bolt as well. After I got that one started, I swiveled the assembly into place and then started the other 2 bolts. Then I went around and snugged them all up twice to make sure it was all even.
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Captain
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 659
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From:
RE: mopar bov instal
The gasket sealant is to ensure you don't have any leaks, as some people have complained of losing boost due to the valve leaking. I don't put too much stock in it; you don't always get full boost all the time, and I suspect they're blaming it on the valve. I myself have had no problems with mine.
