Anybody else having problems with their car pulling to the right? Had mine aligned, they said the rear wheel was so far out that it reqired a bolt relocation kit. Feels better now but any time I step on the gas it pulls hard to the right. Thought maybe it was just the posi trac but talked to a friend with an 04 who said that he can pull all the way to 100mph with his hands off the wheel. Any ideas or is this normal?

 

Most FF does not need an alignment, unless the vehicle has been dropped more that 2.5-3". if you just had your car aligned, check ya control arm, steering knuckle, or tie rod for any bad bushings, ware & tear, or damage

Peace

 

when i bought my SRT-4. The deal say this is 0 degrees aligned. but when you punch on start you will always get torgue steer. well depending on how hard you punch it.

 

A little torque steer to the right is nomal if you give it the gas...under normal driving you shouldn't notice it, though....

 

The cars not lowered and only has a few hundred miles on it, so I wouldn't think any thing is worn yet. I know a little pull is normal but even at a steady 60mph it slowly drifts right, of coarse more so if I stomp on it. I assumed it was more evident because of the posi but maybe not. What has me paranoid I guess is this guy who told me he has none at all. At least you guy's have some. Not sure there's anything else I can do but hang on. By the way, I can't tell it when I hold the wheel.

 

03 srt-4's have open differentials, 04's have limited slip diffs, no srt-4 i know out there has posi-traction. if you have a 03 torque steer is something you have to live with if you plan on doing wot launches[:@], unless you wanna spend the $300-1500 on a lsd kit. on my 03 it was a bit to contend with until i put in the mopar/quaife lsd. that helped tame the torque steer quite a bit[&:]. as for the alignment, if you've dropped your srt-4 from the stock height, by whatever means, then your factory alignment settings won't work as well or at all[:-]. as for the matter of alignment i believe it's the camber (the vertical slant of the tires that normal range from -3 to +3 degrees), is what you were refering to. the factory setting is set a 0 degrees for the b@!!$ to the wall straight away speed. but if your looking to get into auto cross or looking for a little better handling in high speed corners, then i suggest getting camber adjustment nuts and or plates. as for you problem, i hope this helps rule out something in you quest in trouble shooting your ride.

 

Odd that you should mention this, because today was the first time I jumped into it at around 45 MPH with my hands off the wheel to see how it would react/pull. Mine will fight back and forth like mad on a hard launch, but if I punch it at a higher speed I can take my hands off the wheel and it will pull good and hard straight forward with no drifting to one side or the other unless the road is sloped. Did you ever consider the road condition, if it slopes down towards the outside like most, then that could be part of it.

 

The car sure likes to go whichever way the road slopes, no question there. Still likes to pull right under throttle. It is better since the dealer got the back-end in line. I wasn't going to worry about it anymore, just chalk it up to torque steer because I tried out the wife's 2000 300M and it would also pull slightly right under throttle. But now your the second person to tell me you have 0 torque steer so maybe I should take mine to a different dealer for a second opinion.

Also, Sorry if I confused anyone for not being politically correct when I said posi-trac instead of limited slip diff. I do know the difference and what happens around corners if both drive wheels were locked. Over the years, the big 3 have all used different names to describe this (sure-grip, anti-spin, twin-grip, safe-t-loc, etc..) I just like to say posi as a generic term for anything thats smoking both wheels and leaves 2 hellacious marks as our cars do in fact accomplish. Forgive me for not using the correct lingo.