Stock rotors
Alright ladies and gents, I am getting my rotors re-surfaced saturday morning, I have mopar oem brake pads, didn't have time to order the HAWK pads, but next time for sure I will try the Stock rotors set-up with HPS pads. You think this is a good deal.... front rotor re-surfacing and brake pad change for $80?
I personally hate putting rotors on an arbor. If they're only taking 1 or 2 thousandths off its one thing. But if not, you're sacrificing the longevity and braking integrity of the car. The stock rotors under heavy conditions warp wayyy faster than a rotor meant to disperse heat such as the mopars. While those cars may stop better, the brakes won't last nearly as long because they don't disperse heat well.
And keep in mind, brake fluid is supposed to be flushed and changed every year. I don't know if it says it in the manual, but it is a procedure that needs to be done. The sediment build-up and possibility of air in the system is always there. I change mine every 8-12 months, and I notice a HUGE difference when I do.
And keep in mind, brake fluid is supposed to be flushed and changed every year. I don't know if it says it in the manual, but it is a procedure that needs to be done. The sediment build-up and possibility of air in the system is always there. I change mine every 8-12 months, and I notice a HUGE difference when I do.
ORIGINAL: LilSparkPlug
I personally hate putting rotors on an arbor. If they're only taking 1 or 2 thousandths off its one thing. But if not, you're sacrificing the longevity and braking integrity of the car. The stock rotors under heavy conditions warp wayyy faster than a rotor meant to disperse heat such as the mopars. While those cars may stop better, the brakes won't last nearly as long because they don't disperse heat well.
And keep in mind, brake fluid is supposed to be flushed and changed every year. I don't know if it says it in the manual, but it is a procedure that needs to be done. The sediment build-up and possibility of air in the system is always there. I change mine every 8-12 months, and I notice a HUGE difference when I do.
I personally hate putting rotors on an arbor. If they're only taking 1 or 2 thousandths off its one thing. But if not, you're sacrificing the longevity and braking integrity of the car. The stock rotors under heavy conditions warp wayyy faster than a rotor meant to disperse heat such as the mopars. While those cars may stop better, the brakes won't last nearly as long because they don't disperse heat well.
And keep in mind, brake fluid is supposed to be flushed and changed every year. I don't know if it says it in the manual, but it is a procedure that needs to be done. The sediment build-up and possibility of air in the system is always there. I change mine every 8-12 months, and I notice a HUGE difference when I do.
izzy, i was quoted 130.00 for the oem pads from a dealer (not in stock). they also have a value line that i wouldnt use. lookout for cutting too much off the rotors, they will warp quickly. my stock rotors seem to be of good quality with no pock marks (pitting) like the china rotors available at poor boys or advance or probably the value line out of the dealership for that matter. if there is any pitting a good shop will not cut them, they trash the cutting tool. sorry if the advice is late, i was on vacation. did you have the brakes done yet?
Luckily I haven't done my brakes yet.... I had already purchased Mopar front brake pads. Just don't know what to do with my rotors yet, plus I haven't bled my brakes since I bought the damn thing in January. You think that might have something to do with it?
If its a spongy/squishy/soft pedal feel, it may just be that air got into the lines or the fluid needs to be flushed/filled/bled. Thats supposed to be done every year. I'd try doing that first, to save yourself the anguish of cutting the rotors if theres no need.
You'd only need to cut the rotors if they were warped. Common symptoms of warped rotors are: Low speed bucking on deceleration with the brake pedal depressed. And a steering wheel vibration when braking from highway speeds (as if to get off an exit).
You'd only need to cut the rotors if they were warped. Common symptoms of warped rotors are: Low speed bucking on deceleration with the brake pedal depressed. And a steering wheel vibration when braking from highway speeds (as if to get off an exit).
ORIGINAL: LilSparkPlug
If its a spongy/squishy/soft pedal feel, it may just be that air got into the lines or the fluid needs to be flushed/filled/bled. Thats supposed to be done every year. I'd try doing that first, to save yourself the anguish of cutting the rotors if theres no need.
You'd only need to cut the rotors if they were warped. Common symptoms of warped rotors are: Low speed bucking on deceleration with the brake pedal depressed. And a steering wheel vibration when braking from highway speeds (as if to get off an exit).
If its a spongy/squishy/soft pedal feel, it may just be that air got into the lines or the fluid needs to be flushed/filled/bled. Thats supposed to be done every year. I'd try doing that first, to save yourself the anguish of cutting the rotors if theres no need.
You'd only need to cut the rotors if they were warped. Common symptoms of warped rotors are: Low speed bucking on deceleration with the brake pedal depressed. And a steering wheel vibration when braking from highway speeds (as if to get off an exit).


